Trigger overtravel on N frame only

[youngda9]

Why is the S&W overtravel stop pin (that goes inside the trigger return spring within the return slide) only put on N frame revovlers? I would think it would be a good idea in a L frame as well.

Has anyone purchased extra pins and put them in L frame revolvers? I think they would work in an L frame, right?

I think it's only useful for the SA trigger pull since that is further back on the trigger stroke. Is it because they thought the larger N frames would be used in SA for hunting and the L frames would be more for SD and therefore shot in DA?

 

[MichiganScott]

They stopped doing it because they had to be hand fitted to the individual gun. You can do the same thing yourself with a piece of drill rod or even a brad, but it will have to be fitted using the cut and try method.

 

[pilgrim6a]

I don't know why they even bother. Doesn't do any good on my Model 21-4.
With or without the pin the travel is the same.

 

[youngda9]

I don't know why they even bother. Doesn't do any good on my Model 21-4.
With or without the pin the travel is the same.

Your pin must be too short then. In SA mode there should just be a slight bit of overtravel after the sear breaks.

 

[scooter123]

IMO that pin reduces buckling of the rebound spring inside the bore of the rebound slide, so it's use can result in a slightly less stagy trigger. As for it's use in the L frame, it's a feature of some of the Perfomance Center L frames so it can be used in any of the frame sizes. I have some spares I purchased with the intention of installing in my 67-1 and 620 but haven't gotten around to doing it yet.

Now a note about "fitting" for this part. IMO that is NOT required for any revolver that has an MIM rebound slide, these parts are so consistent that I'd be rather shocked to see any significant variation in one of these rebound slides. On an older gun with a "forged" rebound slide fitting is probably required.

Final warning, these pins are NOT double ended and the orientation when installed does matter. IIRC the slightly pointed end goes against the pin for the Rebound slide. However, fair warning, my memory isn't always the best so it's probably 30/70 I'm wrong on how they have to be installed. If you install one of these pins and find the trigger locks with the gun held in certain positions just remove that pin and flip it over. BTW, learned that lesson in the real world with my 610-3.

 

[mikeydio]

You can buy these pins at the hardware store in the section where they sell bolts, nuts and screws. These are approx. .093" diameter and .750" long. They have to be shortened to fit a particular gun, and in particular the specific hammer and trigger. I have found that a length of .705" to .720" is the range, depending on your gun. By using a good set of dial calipers, you can fit the pin to within the .001" needed; they do a great job. As previously stated, they are fit in one specific orientation. I round off the front end and flatten the back end that fits against the frame pin.

To help minimize any bind that your rebound spring may have, try squaring off the ends of the rebound spring, then chamfer the inside edge.

Good luck.

Mike

 

[tek4260]

I removed mine. Couldn't stand the rattle, but I suppose it would have been just as easy to not shake the revolver

 

[series guy]

I just had a friends 617 6 shot apart and it had the overtravel pin. Looked factory.

 

[Shuz]

You can buy these pins at the hardware store in the section where they sell bolts, nuts and screws. These are approx. .093" diameter and .250" long. They have to be shortened to fit a particular gun, and in particular the specific hammer and trigger. I have found that a length of .205" to .220" is the range, depending on your gun. By using a good set of dial calipers, you can fit the pin to within the .001" needed; they do a great job. As previously stated, they are fit in one specific orientation. I round off the front end and flatten the back end that fits against the frame pin.

To help minimize any bind that your rebound spring may have, try squaring off the ends of the rebound spring, then chamfer the inside edge.

Good luck.

Mike

Mike,
Would you plz check the length of your re-bound slide pin. I don't have any of my Smiths torn down now, but IIRC the pin is about 3/4" long! At least all mine are!
Ray

 

[mikeydio]

Shuz,

You are correct, I changed the numbers from my previous post. Damn good thing I rely on measuring tools rather than an aging memory.

Good catch. Mike