My model 1955's trigger reset leaves a lot to be desired.
If I ride the reset, it's smooth and light until juuuuust before going to full reset.
At that point, it slows way down, like it's hanging up on something. It will almost come to a stop, but then finish its travel fully forward.
Between slowing down, and finishing, it feels like there are 2 or 3 mechanical "thingies" happening - sort of click, clack, and a final click when it goes into full reset.
I had the sideplate off, and I can see where, at the point it starts to 'stick', the trigger is interacting with various parts
I've completely disassembled the pistol and cleaned everything.
(Lightly polished means part in vise, run Arkansas stone over to remove dark spots of rust and accumulated gunk on engaging surfaces. In the case of round parts, same process using very fine grit sandpaper. No critical case hardened surfaces were harmed.)
It's pretty clear trigger travel forward is resisted by:
I tried various partial assemblies, including just the trigger and cylinder stop, same with the trigger guard spring out fully and partially (adjusting tension on the spring by backing out the trigger guard screw), just the trigger, cylinder stop, and rebound slide (no hammer), All parts but mainspring. All action parts in, cylinder out. All action parts in, cylinder in.
Everything runs pretty well, until I hook up the mainspring to the hammer. So my guess is that the hump on the rebound slide's interaction with the hammer is maybe causing this trigger reset "stutter step". But it doesn't explain the multiple 'clicks' 2 or 3 before full reset.
Anyone encounter and conquer trigger reset issues like this? I'm reluctant to go with a POLISH EVERYTHING! solution, unless it really is the right answer. I hate removing metal if I can help it.
*edited: wrong model #. Sheesh!
If I ride the reset, it's smooth and light until juuuuust before going to full reset.
At that point, it slows way down, like it's hanging up on something. It will almost come to a stop, but then finish its travel fully forward.
Between slowing down, and finishing, it feels like there are 2 or 3 mechanical "thingies" happening - sort of click, clack, and a final click when it goes into full reset.
I had the sideplate off, and I can see where, at the point it starts to 'stick', the trigger is interacting with various parts
- The front of the trigger is almost at the 'lip' of the cylinder stop
- The bottom of the hammer is on the 'uphill' portion of that hump on the rebound slide
- The DA sear projection is touching the DA lever on the hammer.
I've completely disassembled the pistol and cleaned everything.
- checked tension on the trigger guard spring
- removed gunky old lubricant from everything
- checked for smooth movement of all parts
- confirmed springs and guides are not binding
- LIGHTLY polished the point of contact between the hammer and cylinder stop
- LIGHTLY polished the rebound slide, including point of contact between the 'hump' and the hammer.
- LIGHTLY polished the guide for the trigger guard spring (pushes the cyliinder stop)
- LIGHTLY polished the guide and channel for the rebound slide spring.
(Lightly polished means part in vise, run Arkansas stone over to remove dark spots of rust and accumulated gunk on engaging surfaces. In the case of round parts, same process using very fine grit sandpaper. No critical case hardened surfaces were harmed.)
It's pretty clear trigger travel forward is resisted by:
- The mainspring (via the hammer's interaction with the 'hump' on the rebound slide)
- the interaction between the front trigger projection and the cylinder stop
- contact with the double action lever on the hammer (although there's really no resistance here)
I tried various partial assemblies, including just the trigger and cylinder stop, same with the trigger guard spring out fully and partially (adjusting tension on the spring by backing out the trigger guard screw), just the trigger, cylinder stop, and rebound slide (no hammer), All parts but mainspring. All action parts in, cylinder out. All action parts in, cylinder in.
Everything runs pretty well, until I hook up the mainspring to the hammer. So my guess is that the hump on the rebound slide's interaction with the hammer is maybe causing this trigger reset "stutter step". But it doesn't explain the multiple 'clicks' 2 or 3 before full reset.
Anyone encounter and conquer trigger reset issues like this? I'm reluctant to go with a POLISH EVERYTHING! solution, unless it really is the right answer. I hate removing metal if I can help it.
*edited: wrong model #. Sheesh!
Last edited:
