Trigger Swap...what you did and why?

I believe the fear is a trigger that has been lightened can lead to an aggressive attorney going for negligence. i.e. you didn't actually mean to shoot because you didn't need to but because you had a lighter trigger installed you ere able to bull it by accident.


I have yet to see it documented, but then I haven't looked to hard.

I figure the less that could have to be explained in a trial or civil proceeding the better.
 
I put the Polymer trigger on both my FS9 and my 40C just because I didn't like the feel of the hinged trigger (it made my finger hurt after about a hundred rounds). The Polymer Apex trigger is very comfortable. I didn't change anything else in my carry gun (the 40C) but I did put the Apex sear in my FS9 shortly after the trigger - not the whole kit just the sear. I felt like the pull was a bit heavier after the trigger change and the new sear lightened it back to what I was used to about 5.5 lbs. (it might all be in my head but I like the way it is set up now).
 
Thank you. This is the info I am looking for. And now with the new trigger itself no problems and worth the effort?
 
Personally even with the "carry" aftermarket triggers any gun brought out of my house is factory because if you do have to drop the hammer you will be under a microscope. I personally carry a glock29 it's bad enough that a left wing ADA would say im a gun nut for carrying a 10mm I also have a 357 sig barrel for it that is ported and slightly extended (also chromed) I like the 357 round for carry and this barrel is a tack driver compared to the glock barrel but I dont use it because it makes the gun look "menacing"

When I lived in NY I got pulled over coming from the shooting range (it was in a rural area and known for shooting high power stuff and using illegal mags with more than 10 rounds since no range officer). All my weapons were legit and packaged right yet they took my ak with the pistol grip not my sporter they took my pre-ban AR because of the mag and they even took a mossberg 930spx. They took these guns to test to make sure they werent full auto which is ridiculous cause you can just hold the trigger and manipulate the hammer to see but these looked "menacing" and I got anti-gun cops. (didn't see my guns for 9 months and covered in rust when I got them back) Also NY is practically a police state when it comes to guns.

If you get an anti-gun DA your trigger mods, color of your gun, caliber, everything will come into play. My home defense guns are another story because nobody can say I am endangering the public.

I plan on buying that apex kit too for my m&p 40 I bought used along with other upgrades if I can find them but im gonna get the match one and some nice sights and have a great home/range gun. I'm looking for a used shield so I dont have to carry the glock either.
Sorry for the long post but I have been on the receiveing end of discrimination based on the looks/mods of a gun figured I would give my 2 cents. (My father is a criminal defense lawyer he agrees best bet is a stock carry gun)
 
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There is not one case of a jury changing their minds or a prosecutor arguing that installing aftermarket parts (but still meets the safety requirements) has been used for a conviction.

APEX parts have been used in both LEO and civilian firearms and nobody has been sued because of them.

Its all about the finger and who its attached to.
 
I left my 40c bone stock. For self defense, it's just fine. I have a few target 1911's that have hair triggers. Of course, if you only have 1 gun for target & protection, I could understand. GARY
 
Thank you. This is the info I am looking for. And now with the new trigger itself no problems and worth the effort?

No problems and I would do it even sooner knowing what I know now. It made the M&Ps perfect for me.
 
There is not one case of a jury changing their minds or a prosecutor arguing that installing aftermarket parts (but still meets the safety requirements) has been used for a conviction.

APEX parts have been used in both LEO and civilian firearms and nobody has been sued because of them.

Its all about the finger and who its attached to.

I agree - I've looked and can't find one case.

:cool:
 
I put in the aluminum aek trigger and hard sear. THE best kid I have ever done to any of my guns.
 
I feel that this modification of the M&P can go one of three ways:
1. Easy way: Apex competition spring kit using the original trigger. Change a few springs and you're home free.
2: Medium: Apex Ultimate Striker Block, Competition spring kit, hard sear, leave the factory trigger or pay extra money for a replacement. Your choice, the trigger stroke will be about the same length.
3: Difficult (but worth it): USB, competion spring kit, forward set sear, FSS trigger.

Changing the striker block is probably the most difficult as it requires the removal of the rear sight.
Changing the sear is not too difficult depending on how many safeties on the gun, magazine safeties, etc.
Changing the trigger isn't so difficult, but getting the pin just right to mount the bar can be tricky.

Advanced high speed modifications for tinkerers and competitors:
I beveled the corner off along the first quarter of the sear disconnector to help with the reset at the lower trigger spring weight. I also clipped a coil off the spring in the trigger safety. The spring required more pressure to disengage the safety than to move the trigger. Seemed silly to me. I also recontoured the contour of the sear disconnector, which is a big boy move and not to be attempted without a spare in hand. I got the take up to nearly imperceptible levels. I broke a trigger bar along the learning curve and was the proud parent of a paperweight for a week.
 
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I also clipped a coil off the spring in the trigger safety. The spring required more pressure to disengage the safety than to move the trigger. Seemed silly to me.
This may have seemed silly, but it's on purpose. The trigger safety is not there in case you accidentally pull the trigger. It's a drop safety. It prevents the trigger from being driven back under inertia should the gun be dropped on the back of the slide.
 
This may have seemed silly, but it's on purpose. The trigger safety is not there in case you accidentally pull the trigger. It's a drop safety. It prevents the trigger from being driven back under inertia should the gun be dropped on the back of the slide.

I really need to work on my clarity. So what I mean exactly is that with the competition trigger spring installed the FSS trigger safety is strong enough that the safety stays engaged until the safety contacts the frame before coming off with a gritty click as it drags on the frame. That seems "silly" to me. Why have a safety spring stronger than the trigger pull itself? So I changed it to suit me and time properly to retract fully and clear the frame. Clipping a coil did the trick and now it runs smoothly. I wanted a light trigger comparable to what's available for the glock so I did it. We shoot handguns out to sixty yards at times and regularly have opportunities from thirty to fifty yards, so a smooth light trigger is important to me.

I understood the purpose of the safety from the outset as I researched it before I started fooling with it. Initially I just removed the safety completely, but thought better of it due to a concern of dropping the gun out of a treestand or elevated shooting position.
 
Well then I guess I don't understand what you're saying. The trigger safety on the FSS is not stronger than the trigger pull. Some people have trouble because the FSS aluminum trigger is flat and they don't get their finger on the trigger square.
 
Well then I guess I don't understand what you're saying. The trigger safety on the FSS is not stronger than the trigger pull. Some people have trouble because the FSS aluminum trigger is flat and they don't get their finger on the trigger square.

With the competition spring kit(2.5-3#) installed, which Randy Lee at Apex doesn't advise using with the FSS kit, I was getting frame drag. It did not happen with the OEM trigger spring nor with the supplied trigger spring that came with the FSS kit. I was throwing parts together looking for the shortest and lightest trigger pull in an M&P. Maybe I press the trigger flatly and maybe I don't. Trigger safety was still engaged with my finger tip pressing on it alone as the trigger mechanism went rearward until the safety contacted the frame. Every time.
 
FSS is the ultimate striker fired trigger, it's THE reason to own M&Ps and you still don't need the goofy thumb safety, just keep the booger hook off the bang button, use quality holsters and practice gun safety (aka common sense).
 
With the competition spring kit(2.5-3#) installed, which Randy Lee at Apex doesn't advise using with the FSS kit, I was getting frame drag. It did not happen with the OEM trigger spring nor with the supplied trigger spring that came with the FSS kit. I was throwing parts together looking for the shortest and lightest trigger pull in an M&P. Maybe I press the trigger flatly and maybe I don't. Trigger safety was still engaged with my finger tip pressing on it alone as the trigger mechanism went rearward until the safety contacted the frame. Every time.
OK, that makes a little more sense now.
 
I was getting frame drag on one of my M&P's also -

Gun smith fixed it right up, took leass than 15 minutes - didn't even charge me (I bought the gun there).

He told me he'd fixedseveral M&P's that had that problem.

As for the "Dumb Safety" - I like them , having carried a 1911 for years, it works well for me.

Even when I shoot in competition, I always use my safety, doen't cause me any loss of time at all.

:cool:
 
All of my M&P's have apex trigger kits In them. Aluminum triggers are the way to go. Feels a lot better than the 2-piece triggers from the factory.
 

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