Trigger work?

George9

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Hi,
I have not yet got into my AR lower at all.. I have done trigger jobs on many pistols and know the aspects on that.. Looking at the AR's hammer it looks to me as if I takeout the hammer drift pin that's all I'll need to do to remove the hammer so i can stone it down a tad.. I just don't want to open a can of worms by pulling a pin on a gun I never worked on before looking at the hammer spring, is this a monster to get back in?.. I have some take up on the trigger that i can feel before the trigger breaks other wise it's clean..This gun is used for strictly target practice at the range.. I don't hunt with this gun.. It's very hard not to perceive it's travel before the trigger breaks.. I added some Seal 1 CLP plus to the sear and the hammer notch.. It does feel a bit better for now..I know what I need to do question is do I do it? George
 
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Yeah, do it!
They're really not hard to get back in, just takes a little fanagalin' to get the pin lined up since the hammer will be under tension from the spring.
One trick I do is once the pin is started, push the hammer down so the sear locks it in place, takes a lot of strain off your thumb so you can concentrate on lining the pin up.
 
I like you was hesitant to do any work on my AR.

I ordered a Geissele SSA-E and watched the video on youtube while simultaneously doing the work. It went a lot easier and better than I thought it would. Don't hesitate to google and youtube around and you should be fine.
 
MSR (aka AR :) ) trigger groups are very simple to disassemble. Just push out a few pins and make sure none of the springs fly away. :D

Just be careful on the amount of material you polish off. Finding out at the range that your trigger job has suddenly given your semi-auto a burst mode is a quick way to get you firearms ownership privileges revoked for life. :eek:

I have a Geissele SSA 2-stage trigger on my Sport. The 2nd stage break is very crisp and clean.
 
I'd buff it before I'd stone it. It doesn't take much more than a good buffing to clean up what the factory started.

Doesn't take much stoning to go past the point of no return.
 
Thank you all! Seems pretty easy from what you all say. Yes I'll try polishing it with a buffing wheel first get it nice and clean.. Maybe mate the sear to the hammer first with fine compound while in place then remove it and buff it out... See what that gives me.. I'm a .45 guy and there so easy to work on.. Gotta start somplace.. George
 
Maddmax is correct. The trigger is easy to screw up.

Buy a second hammer and trigger before you begin. They're cheap and may be hard to find right now. Better to have a spare ahead of time and you'll want a spare anyway.
 
I just stumbled across your post- question- when you say polish, never haveing done this I am unsure of the type/grit? a dremel style wheel? a rat tail file, by hand? Its a new sport but the trigger is not smooth- suggestions please?
 
I used a buffing paste With a dremel and a buffing wheel.. Maddmax was right that's all I needed.. I then applied some Seal 1 lube. Breaks like glass! I have been into this for 35 years but just never had, or worked on a AR before.. I'm a pistol kind of guy. Or at least had been! George
 
I stoned mine with a small Arkansas stone and light machine oil. When you first start stoning you can see the machine marks. I stoned until they were gone. Trigger is now very smooth. No gritty feel. I also installed the yellow spring from JP Enterprises and I don't know the pull pounds but, its much easier to keep on target while shooting.
 
thanx all- another? - is the " hard strike" on certain primers that frequent an issue? the posts and articles say " lighter spring kits" dont whack em hard enough-BS? with the price of rounds mil- surp looks better all the time ( 5.56) appreciate your time
 
Getting the pins lined up for re-install is probably the hardest part. I use a roll pin punch as a guide and get everything lined up then drive the pin in from the opposite side. Seems to work well for me. There are plenty of decent videos on how to do this on YouTube.
 
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Dremels, buffing wheels and the like are a gunsmiths best friends. They let you ruin parts real fast!

For the record, when people refer to polishing action parts, they mean removing burrs and smoothing tool marks. This generally takes just few strokes with a proper honing stone.

If you want to use a polishing grit, like the paste used to lap bolt lugs, put it on the sear/hammer notch and pull the trigger, repeat as necessary and then make darn sure you get all the grit & metal particles out.
 
molly grease

Molly grease lightly applied with a toothpick at the sear notch smoothed my Sport a lot.
Took out most of the gritty feeling
 
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