Troubleshoot the trigger/hammer on my 610

[Scooter1942]

Yesterday I shot less than 20 rounds through my S&W 610. Nothing particularly notable other than that the loads I shot were wildly inaccurate in both my 610 and Glock 20. Afterwards, I go to clean it up and upon reassembly I notice that it is significantly harder to cock the hammer four out of six tries, as if it only happens on two cylinders. I removed the cylinder and reinstalled. Same thing. The cylinder gap looks consistent, no damage or anything that looks out of sorts.

One unrelated thing that does still bug me is that there are tooling marks 360 degrees around inside the barrel, about 1" from the muzzle, and about 1/4" long on the rifling. I bought the gun new about a year ago and it never impacted accuracy, so I just lived with it. But now that I'm shooting more hardcast lead I'm concerned that those tooling marks, which run perpendicular to the rifling, are grabbing lead. Should I send it back? Suggestions on the hammer/trigger issue?

 

[pasound]

Can you post some pictures? Sounds like a flaw in the rifling, but would like to see.

 

[Scooter1942]

 

[pasound]

Call S&W. Send that revolver back. There should never be chatter marks in the grooves. Looks like there may be a second set about half way down the barrel as well.

 

[Protocall_Design]

That looks like rings on the lands, not the grooves. It would be pretty difficult to have those rings in the grooves without going across the lands as well. Those would have been put there during the gun drilling process. They should not affect accuracy any, as the bullet is already formed to the rifling before it gets there.

You don't say what kind of bullets you were shooting, it could be leaded up on the front of the cylinder. With some endshake, 2 chambers could be rubbing the back of the barrel. Also, you might have debris trapped between the cylinder and extractor. Need to clean that out really well with a stiff tooth brush.

 

[pasound]

I stand corrected. When I looked at the pics on the site, the lighting makes the grooves look taller. I downloaded the pics and looked again, and they are definitely on the lands. In any case, that's one that should never have gotten out of assembly.

Didn't we just have posts from a member who had a .44mag with a .41mag barrel?

 

[Scooter1942]

Bullets were:

RimRock 225 gr and Montana Bullet Works 200 gr WFN coated.

I'll call S&W tomorrow.

 

[pasound]

Yes, do. They owe you a new barrel, and in the case of the trigger problems, maybe an entire gun. Keep us posted.

 

[WR Moore]

If that was a button rifled barrel, I think the bore should have failed inspection prior to rifling.

Added edit: SEND IT BACK TO THE FACTORY!!!! I learned a long time ago (started with a tutorial from my father on cars) not to accept any product without careful, thorough inspection.

 

[dsf]

Re being tough to cock on two chambers, may be the interaction of the hand on the ratchet of those chambers. Where the resistance is met would be good to know.

If at the point of lock up it may be that the ratchet is a bit proud causing a slight binding. Not a bad thing as the part should wear in. If about halfway the point at which the hand transitions from initial turning of the cylinder to locking up, it's that corner of the ratchet that serves as a pivot point between hand and cylinder.

 

[Bullet Bob]

I always have to ask, being a "check to see if it's plugged in" kind of guy, has any work been done on the revolver since you bought it, like spring changes?

 

[Scooter1942]

I always have to ask, being a "check to see if it's plugged in" kind of guy, has any work been done on the revolver since you bought it, like spring changes?

Nothing...aside from popping out the front sight for a fiber optic front sight.