Tru Oil

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I'd recommend NOT cleaning your skin with any of the above-mentioned solvents. They will get absorbed into your blood stream and will cause liver and kidney damage.
 
I'd recommend NOT cleaning your skin with any of the above-mentioned solvents. They will get absorbed into your blood stream and will cause liver and kidney damage.

Some can also cause PERMANENT neurological damage.
Trust me on this - I can hardly leave my house without fairly elaborate preparation for over 10 years now.

Try orange hand cleaner and avoid aromatic solvents!
 
Mineral spirits(paint thinner) applied to a paper towel. Then wash your hands with Orange Cleaner and or hot soapy water.

The small amount of mineral spirits is not going to hurt you.

The product is over 50%mineral spirits and then linseed oil so if you rubbed it in by hand you already have mineral spirits on your skin.
 
I used some of my wife's hand lotion. It left a slightly sticky residue on my hands which washed off with plain old soap and water.
 
You may try isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) followed by soap and water.
Also go-jo type industrial hand cleaner.
I seldom wear gloves but you might try wearing latex, nitrile, vinyl gloves. I usually use a cotton rag folded several times and I get very little if any on my skin.
 
When refinishing a gunstock, I put several coats on by rubbing the freshly applied Tru-Oil out with the heal of my hand. Mineral spirits followed my a good washing with Lava soap is my clean up method.
 
Been awhile since I worked with Truoil but I think I used to spray my hands with a little WD40 first, rub it in some and then add hot water and liquid dish soap. Follow up with a rinse of hot water and the sticky was gone. WD40 is probably no better for your skin than acetone though.
 
A small amount of Goo Gone goes a long way for getting the Tru Oil off your hands, and although that product does contain petroleum distillates, it has the mild "prolonged contact" warning only. If you wash your hands immediately after (and I agree that Lava soap or another pumice hand cleaner is best for this purpose), I wouldn't think there's any severe health risk.
 
I have a couple of other Tru Oil questions. How durable is it? It seems that when I knock the shine out of a coat of the oil, with 0000 steel wool, that the remaining finish would be quite durable. But if I decide to leave the last coat with the shine, that finish seems to be quite fragile. I would think it would show scratches if I bumped against anything. Also, whether I leave it shiney or matte, should I coat the finished product with a coat of Renaissance Wax or leave as is? Thanks for any advice.
 
All True Oil is , is a refined Linseed Oil with enough Mineral spirits to make it dry fast. Enough penetrates the wood to protect it. Whenever i used it, after the last coat (3-4) dried I buffed it with extra fine steel wool and left it. You can always go back and re coat or touch up. If you want a finish to last, after it is dry for several days, spray it with a clear top coat of polyurethane in your choice of sheen's, semi gloss, gloss, satin etc,
 
FIRE......

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FIRE......
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Sorry, couldn't resist. Funny thread. I rub it in with a rag and get very little on my fingers. Soap and water usually gets it all off my fingers. I'm redoing the butt stock on my Marlin 336 every few days right now. Rub some fresh in. Wait a few days. Rub it down with 000 steel wool. Wipe off with tack cloth. rub some fresh in... Wait... This is week two.
 
Fire? Sandpaper? Beadblast? !!!

Not for me. I have sensitive skin so I'll stick with the Gojo
 
How many coats are you going to use? Are you going to leave it shiney or matte?


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FIRE......
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+1...








Sorry, couldn't resist. Funny thread. I rub it in with a rag and get very little on my fingers. Soap and water usually gets it all off my fingers. I'm redoing the butt stock on my Marlin 336 every few days right now. Rub some fresh in. Wait a few days. Rub it down with 000 steel wool. Wipe off with tack cloth. rub some fresh in... Wait... This is week two.
 
I have used all the cleaning methods so far. They all work.

I also have discovered that cooking oil will remove many
tenacious and sticky materials.

Follow with dish soap or any soap and your gtg.

Non toxic and sometimes amazingly effective.

;)
 
GoJo with pumice.

Have I posted the article about spraying a light coat of ArmorAll on the stock, then rubbing in the Tru Oil? The chemical reaction causes the TruOil to harden, albeit a thin coat. You can put on ten coats in no time. The thin coats will cover but leave a good walnut stock looking like a hand rubbed piece of wood.
 
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