I want to learn to shoot a revolver

[Inland7-45]

I started off with a brand new 22 Combat Masterpiece in 1972. This was a great gun to practice DA shooting techniques with. I still have this gun as well a model 67 .38 Combat Masterpiece Stainless from the same year to go with it. This year I added a very nice K-22 and .38 Masterpiece to my collection.

While also own some Colt and Ruger revolvers as well N , J and I frame S & Ws I am very partial to the K frame.

A good .22 even at today's ammunition cost still offers an economical way to master double action shooting. My .22 Combat Masterpiece has never had any action work. It does however have a very smooth DA pull which has improved over time. It also has a great SA pull and hits where it looks.
Practice with the .22 makes transition to the .38 easy. Any .22 cal K frame from any era is good. However ,I have preference for the Pre model number guns up through the Model 17 and 18 dash 4. You will have a harder time finding a 4" barrel and will pay more than for a 6" in a .22. There are just more 6" .22s out there. In .38 cal a 4" will be easier to find as there were more of them out there.

Used K 22s and K 38s are not cheap but by shopping around a little you should be able to find the right gun at the right price.

Not sure if S&W still has the K 22 in the Classic line. These are worth taking a look at.

Good Luck

 

[JonE406]

Never did smooth out that trigger.

I carry a K frame mod 66-8 2.75" daily, I have owned many revolvers since 1974, started out with a mod 10 in the USAF.

 

[Goblin]

The great thing about a revolver is it lends itself to dry fire practice. You can dry fire double action until your hands wear out.

I recommend cutting out white paper circles and putting them on a wall at a scale that simulates 12" steel targets at 20 yards or so. You can use dry fire to train your muscles so that the correct muscles are just gripping the gun and the correct muscles are only squeezing the trigger. This practice will get you way down the learning curve without spending a fortune on ammo.

 

[StrawHat]

I dry fired a revolver every day for years. I still do, but not daily. The best way to dry fire is to find a perfectly blank wall, bring the revolver up and get your sight picture, squeeze until the hammer falls. You should only be concentrating on the sights, no targets, quarters, or other gimmicks. When the hammer falls, did the sights move? They shouldn't! Master that and then add the gimmicks if you want.

Once you get command of the trigger, distant targets become easy.

Kevin

 

[larondo]

I'm a member in a local gun club, happily since 15 years.
The folks are incredible, at least most of them. Always ready to chat, share knowledge or instruct at the range. Well worth the 2-digit annual membership fee.
I learned shooting my revolver this way, next to other hand guns, rifles, shotguns etc. If I wanted, I could plug into Black Powder and Cowboy Action. It's all available. Even Junior & Women training.

I shot many NRA matches with revolvers. Cock the hammer with the thumb of your supporting hand, keep your sight picture.

I just got tired of cocking the hammer, so I began to shoot semi-autos and love it.

 

[CALREB]

Gabstock, if you want to stick to 9mm revolvers I would get a 929, big N frame but holds 8 rounds but should fit your big hands. I have a 986 and its ok but not as accurate as I would like. Actually a 9X21 cylinder(Italian run of guns) not true 9mm. However if you reload you might like that as you could boost the power factor.

If you are not hung up on 9mm and were only going to buy 1 or 2 revolvers I would stick with a 586/686 gives you the ability to shoot 357 if you ever wanted to, and are very robust, accurate guns. If you just want a target 38 special gun I would hunt down a model 14-5/6/ 7, 6" with the underlugged barrel. K frame with some extra weight, can be smoothed up very nicely, great accuracy. They hold up very well to all types of 38 ammo. I have some over 30 years old with at least 25-30,000 rounds through one with no issues. If you chose to buy a 17/617 22 cal to practice with its the exact same gun just a tad heavier.
If you happen to live in N Texas I would be glad to let you shoot a bunch of models. Most of my guns are set up with smooth narrower type triggers, and smaller (non-target) type hammers for double action shooting. I shot PPC matches for over 30 years and taught a few non rev shooters over the years.
Otherwise the advise to get a nice smooth action revolver ( not necessarily light) have someone teach you proper grip and finger placement and dry fire the bejesus out of it. Practice till you can go six or 8 presses and not disturb a nickle on the rib. Then if you have a nice flat patridge sight , go to a dime on it. If you go to six presses with that and you are gripping firm enough and pressing smooth enough to not lose the dime, you will do just fine.

If you are married, find a spot that doesnt disturb your mate. I went to the bedroom, put a show on the TV, reduced(real small) target on an old BP vest, against the wall. I used empty casings and switched them out every few days. I tried many types of dummy rounds, but they usually drag. I polished some on 220 grit paper and they lasted 6 months or so. They may have better products now. Good luck...

 

[Modified]

Make sure that the grips fit your hand.

This is a profound statement that is worth some old old school information tacked onto it.

Very few people really consider what "fit" means. For so many we have had to work around the magazine inside the grip that the thought that stocks could actually fit your hand doesn't even really register.

If you go back a bit and pick up Walter F. Ropers books you will find that what is most important to your grip on the gun is that your grip is consistent on the gun each time you grasp it, and it doesn't shift due to recoil (causing you to have to re-adjust your grip). Except that you should be able to do this without having a death grip on the gun.

How a gun feels in your hand when you just pick it up, and how that same set of grips performs under recoil are two radically different things in many cases.

Few people really understand just how incredibly technical the old Roper grips actually are. They are usually very attractive, but that is really hiding the treasure they are for shooting.

If they fit you. The problem with old Ropers is that they were mostly custom made... to the specific dimension of the shooter's hand (As traced on paper, or in some cases fit in person). That sort of service is really not realistically available today. But, we can still learn some excellent lessons not just from his books, but observing the grips he had Gagne make for him. I've owned near 20 pair now and only two fit me exactly, which is actually quite lucky.


Based on my experience getting to enjoy the fine old custom grips I usually tell people that its important to get a broad range of custom grips, and shoot with each of them. Which set actually works for you is heavily dependent on your hands. No one can say XYZ grip is the best, because while it may be for them, it might not be for you.

Personally, I am a huge fan of Hogues. He was the clear winner of the LA Shooting team's grip race. But, I should note. If a set of grips fit your hand right then you will probably prefer them in wood, not rubber. It seems like rubber would be superior, but with good fit wood (or old Hogues made of nylon) may work better for you as they do for me. Never be afraid to swap grips willy nilly until you hit on the right pair.

 

[CALREB]

I agree with Modified. grips/stocks whatever you want to call them are very important on a gun with a lot of trigger movement. I never tried too many custom makers. I have a set of Nill's that I won and they feel good but I didnt like wood for competition. When Bill Davis came out with his larger style grips in softer rubber, I began experimenting. Didnt like finger grooves, they never fit right. What I came up with after much grinding/sanding etc was a longer bottomed style of grip like JMs. Though I had never seen that style of grip or heard of it for years. All my revolvers that I shoot much have this grip on them. Here are a before and after photos. I think the new style grips like on my 986 are pretty close.

 

[Modified]

I love it. Reminds me of in the 20's when guys would add and remove electrical tape until they had the grip exactly right for their hands.

 

[VaTom]

I dry fired a revolver every day for years. I still do, but not daily. The best way to dry fire is to find a perfectly blank wall, bring the revolver up and get your sight picture, squeeze until the hammer falls. You should only be concentrating on the sights, no targets, quarters, or other gimmicks. When the hammer falls, did the sights move? They shouldn't! Master that and then add the gimmicks if you want.

Once you get command of the trigger, distant targets become easy.

Kevin

Excellent advice. Not an "expert" but I went through basic LEO training in 1976 spending lots of time at the range with Model 10's. As Chief of a small campus department we transitioned from revolvers to Glocks in the 1990's. In my opinion the biggest difference to learn is trigger pull and control between a semi-automatic and a revolver (in double action). (Whether transition from revolver to semi or vice-versa). When practicing with the revolver as you pull the trigger watch the hammer draw back, your squeeze should be such that you will not anticipate when it will fall.

Hope that makes sense! Good luck.

 

[StrawHat]

Excellent advice. Not an "expert" but I went through basic LEO training in 1976 spending lots of time at the range with Model 10's. As Chief of a small campus department we transitioned from revolvers to Glocks in the 1990's. In my opinion the biggest difference to learn is trigger pull and control between a semi-automatic and a revolver (in double action). (Whether transition from revolver to semi or vice-versa). When practicing with the revolver as you pull the trigger watch the hammer draw back, your squeeze should be such that you will not anticipate when it will fall.

Hope that makes sense! Good luck.

I disagree with watching the hammer. Your total concentration should be on the sight picture. The sights determine where the bullets impact. If your sight picture is not good, squeeze and readjust the sights, then continue squeezing.

Kevin

 

[gabstok]

Holy shnikes! That's a lot of input. Thanks guys. Took some notes and am narrowing my search. 22s, the classic 357s and the 686s seem to be the most recommended.

For those who asked, I'm located in Colorado Springs.

I've believed for many years that the top ten most important things for accurate shooting is

1-sight alignment
2-grip
3-stance
4-10 Trigger control

And that is echoed here in depth.

Any specific trainers or classes you recommend?

Thanks again. Appreciate all your advice.

 

[StrawHat]

Holy shnikes! That's a lot of input. Thanks guys. Took some notes and am narrowing my search. 22s, the classic 357s and the 686s seem to be the most recommended.

For those who asked, I'm located in Colorado Springs.

I've believed for many years that the top ten most important things for accurate shooting is

1-sight alignment
2-grip
3-stance
4-10 Trigger control

And that is echoed here in depth.

Any specific trainers or classes you recommend?

Thanks again. Appreciate all your advice.

You seem to have a handle on it.

C Springs, 30 years ago I knew two competitors from there. Both decent shots. Both are gone now, one to Florida the other to his final home.

Best of luck and keep us posted.

Kevin

 

[VaTom]

I disagree with watching the hammer. Your total concentration should be on the sight picture. The sights determine where the bullets impact. If your sight picture is not good, squeeze and readjust the sights, then continue squeezing.

Kevin

You are correct about the sight picture being most important. I should have said that you should learn to never anticipate the hammer fall. In my opinion transiting from Revolver to DAO Semi is easier than vice-versa.

Back in the day of basic LEO training we practiced a lot of "point shooting" from around 5 yards - not using the sights. Draw, point, shoot and watch where the first round hits then adjust by slightly moving strong hand wrist up or down to adjust for second shot as needed. At that time we were taught that most shootings with armed suspects happened at close range so this technique was important. As we moved rearward to 10, 15 and 25 yards the sights came into use.

VaTom

 

[Modified]

Holy shnikes! That's a lot of input. Thanks guys. Took some notes and am narrowing my search. 22s, the classic 357s and the 686s seem to be the most recommended.

For those who asked, I'm located in Colorado Springs.

I've believed for many years that the top ten most important things for accurate shooting is

1-sight alignment
2-grip
3-stance
4-10 Trigger control

And that is echoed here in depth.

Any specific trainers or classes you recommend?

Thanks again. Appreciate all your advice.

5- Physical Fitness

Good double action shooting, as noted multiple times in this thread, involves being able to pull the trigger smoothly without jerking your sights off target. The stronger the muscles are that allow for this the better off you are.

If you watch any videos of Jerry Miculek shooting a revolver you will note that the guy is a real life Popeye the Sailor Man.

 

[oneoff]

As a larger fella with large hands, I would strongly recommend the 617 and 686 combination as well. Both 4" though, for going back and forth between these two (same size& feel) guns never fails to illustrate something that I need to work on a bit!
Then, you can branch out from there to what you prefer/need. You might find that you're where you want to be!
I would "not" get a 9mm unless you're really set on it for your own reasons, for I consider a good .357 revolver to be just about the most versatile firearm on the planet, and being a reloader unlocks that versatility even more. Why not have some fun and explore that world at the same time!

 

[BE Mike]

Holy shnikes! That's a lot of input. Thanks guys. Took some notes and am narrowing my search. 22s, the classic 357s and the 686s seem to be the most recommended.

For those who asked, I'm located in Colorado Springs.

I've believed for many years that the top ten most important things for accurate shooting is

1-sight alignment
2-grip
3-stance
4-10 Trigger control

And that is echoed here in depth.

Any specific trainers or classes you recommend?

Thanks again. Appreciate all your advice.

Actually trigger control should top the list. As far as being a large guy, I once met Bill Jordan and shook his hand. It was huge! He had no trouble handling a S&W model 19!

 

[Sgt. Buzzard]

I love it. Reminds me of in the 20's when guys would add and remove electrical tape until they had the grip exactly right for their hands.

Oh yeah. I was doing that just last year to a Colt. It's called friction tape now and the kid in the hardware store doesn't have a clue. Same thing that we wrapped around our hockey stick back in the day.

 

[CALREB]

When I first started shooting shooting competitions( around 1980) the general consensus and way neat way to shoot D/A was to stage the trigger. It was a vast improvement over what I had been doing especially at 50 yards. However I still had the few way-way out flyers. Oh-- the dreaded anticipation monster that we all battle. Then I made the aquaintance and had the chance to practice with the shooters from the Secret Service Pistol team. National Champ Aranzo Milbourn, Sam Yarosh and the rest. They would practice on our little range in IA then put their stuff away and work coaching me and another officer who shot with me. Nothing like good coaching when you are just starting out. They changed my positions and other things but one BIG factor that they continuously pounded home was to "keep the trigger MOVING."

Must have worked, my scores jumped about 40 points right off. Im sure the 3 or 4 thousand Remington wadcutters they left me aided some. My 3D semi W/C was fine for 25 and in but the Remington grouped way better at 50.

Im sure there are some good shooters who stage the trigger in D/A but I have never met them. All I have ever asked followed that same advise. Yes your trigger press can slow way down but not stop and then jerk--- oops! I meant press...the trigger...

 

[Modified]

Oh yeah. I was doing that just last year to a Colt. It's called friction tape now and the kid in the hardware store doesn't have a clue. Same thing that we wrapped around our hockey stick back in the day.

Have a watch here. If you look at the officer they follow you can see what he has done with his grips. Should be right about at the 5 minute mark.

Also, this should be enjoyable for everyone who hasn't seen it but likes gun, and apropos to the original question.

 

[justicetyme]

It may have been mentioned in a previous thread and I missed it, if so I apologize.
In addition to the wealth of information that has been presented I's suggest that you buy, borrow, obtain Jerry Miculek's DVD on revolver shooting.
It's a terrific source for instruction in shooting and reloading a revolver in a fast and efficient manner.

I have owned and shot revolvers for 60+ years and find them a very challenging and fun platform and I'm sure you will as well.

I shot this 646 that I built up for IDPA for several years:

as well as this 625-4" that I built up for IDPA:

For practice for the 646 when I didn't want to reload I built up this 617 ND:

An accomplished moon clip revolver shooter can do some very impressive reloads, and an accomplished speed loader revolver shooter can as well.

I like the Safariland Comp II speed loaders for my 2.5" 686-4 but there are other speed loaders that can work well also.

Some very knowledgeable advice is at your disposal in the above threads.
Whatever you choose, welcome to the wonderful world of revolvers.
James

 

[Cartwright Jones]

This is a bogus posting.

 

[DevilDog72]

My vote is a 2 to 2.5 inch K frame. A Mdl 10 or 15 with 2 inch bbl or Mdl 66 or 19 2.5 inch bbl. The pic is my 19-4 and have carried it for just short of 20 years.

There is a lot of knowledge on the forum and very friendly and helpful people.
Good luck and welcome.

 

[oldcop71]

Double action only, practice practice practice. I started at the 50 yard line, and down from there. Sight picture, squeeze double action, repeat.

 

[mtgianni]

Oh yeah. I was doing that just last year to a Colt. It's called friction tape now and the kid in the hardware store doesn't have a clue. Same thing that we wrapped around our hockey stick back in the day.

Vet wrap should be even better. It is medical tape that isn't approved from human use so it costs 1/10th the medical costs. You can get it from 1/2" to 4" and put it where you need to. It only sticks to itself so no worries about finish.

 

[Jim0001]

Hello gentlemen of the revolver community,

Admin, if there is a more appropriate forum, please relocate.

I present my current situation for discussion, feedback and sage advice.

BLUF:
I want to learn to shoot a revolver and I want to learn the right way. My focus will be developing gun handling, shooting, reloading skills, etc for a defensive situation. I plan to purchase a new gun to learn with and am looking for recommendations.

Amplifying information:

I'm an experienced semi auto shooter of 25+ years. I've owned 20+ different semi auto pistols over the years but now only have Glocks (all 9mm). I shoot them regularly at my local range. I appreciate Glocks due to their reliability, consistency, compatibility and aftermarket support. My primary CCW is a Glock 19.

I've taken many training courses over the years and would say I'm a step or two better than the average shooter.

I am primarily a defensive shooter. My training focuses on defensive skills and scenarios. I do not hunt and do not compete.

I have occasionally shot revolvers in the past. My performance is consistently horrendous and not good enough to warrant a revolver for defensive purposes. This I plan to fix.

Budget is not a concern. I can easily accept a high price up front if I have reason to believe that it's the right choice for me.

This purchase will not need to be used for home defense. I have many other options that fill this role.

Over time, once I've developed my revolver skills, I'd consider buying a smaller revolver as a CCW option.

I'm a bigger guy, with large hands. I consider Smith J Frames and Ruger LCRs and SP-101s too small for extended range sessions and training. Whatever I end up with, I'd probably put larger rubber Hogue grips on.

I reload 9mm (not as much lately due to prices) and would probably eventually want to reload whatever cartridge I shoot in the revolver.

Questions?

What brand/model? I'm familiar with the market and what's available. I've looked closely at Rugers, S&Ws and Kimbers. Initially, I think the GP100s and the 686s are considerations. The Kimber's look very nice, but I think that their smaller size might be less than ideal.

What caliber? I see a handful of 9mm revolvers out there. 9mm is relatively cheap and I have lots of it. On the other hand revolvers are known for the capability of the 357 cartridge and the flexibly to shoot 38 Spec. I do understand that 9mm revolvers require moon clips and am ok with that if that's where I end up.

What capacity? 6 or 7? Yes, more is better, but… Does learning on a 7-shot then carrying a 6-shot set you up for failure? Also, I've seen some discussion about the Ruger GP100 7-shots having issues.

Training? What do you recommend as far as courses/trainers/drills to help me become a proficient defensive revolver shooter?

Thank you for taking the time to read this. What do you think?

I have both GP-100's and 686's. I would say both are equally reliable and one is as accurate as the other (comparing equal barrel lengths}. If one fits you better than the other, then that would be my choice.

 

[Doug M.]

HITS is a good training facility for revolvers; they in the Dallas area IIRC. DB and Wayne are old school serious shooters. DB, for example, was a cop in Southern California (Orange County area IIRC) and carried a 4" M25-5 as part of the gang unit. Wayne was in ... Dallas area.

As an experienced shooter, the K frame .22s might be a good idea, even though you are more accustomed to recoil, simply because ammo is so cheap. A 4" adjustable sight K frame is often a good idea; I can't see well enough to shoot a fixed sight revolver well. If you have the capacity, a 4" N frame .357 is nice and with .38s the felt recoil will be minimal. 7 shot L frames, likewise; it is not worth it to me because I have an M66, but the 686+ Mountain Gun (either the original or the new one from Lipseys is a good choice; there have been reports of poor QC on those, which is a darned shame, so have someone savvy help you with inspection).