Two Inch M&P

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy

No more K frame 38s. That's what I keep telling myself. Then I spot something a little bit unusual and it comes home with me.

I just brought this one home. I did not have any 2" K frames, so I thought it would make an interesting addition to my haphazard collection. I always thought the 2" barreled K frames looked cool anyway. Really brutal looking.

There was a little bit of discussion at the dealer as to the age, so I could buy it on my C&R. They seemed to think 1958. I think a bit earlier, if for no other reason than it is not a Model 10 (which they had it marked as) so it has to be pre-1957.

SN is C994XX. According to SCSW that puts it between 1948 and 1951 - C1 - C223998. I'm thinking this one is pretty early, probably 1948. Opinions? I'm pretty sure the grips are not original, they are not lettered to the gun, and the screw at the top corner of the frame is a flat head screw as is usually seen with Magna grips. Too bad, the grips are in nice shape except where some clown decided to 'personalize' them.

Another question. Exactly what is that hammer? I have a couple like this. I'm pretty sure it is a short throw hammer, but it is not the typical profile. Is there a specific name for that type of hammer?

Lastly, SCSW mentions a premium value for 2" barrels. I'm pretty sure this barrel is original, don't think it has been cut down. The lettering is centered on it.

So with the short barrel and incorrect grips, did I find something valuable, or just something mildly unusual?

Thanks

 

[murphydog]

Looks like a nice one. The stocks are from the 1900-1910 decade, with the flat tops (where the medallion would go). The barrel does look original and should have the SN on the barrel flat.

Finally, this has the "speed hammer", which is correct for this era but may not be its official name. Enjoy!

 

[Art Doc]

Speed Hammer is correct S&W terminology.

My C58600 shipped 7/49.

 

[twaits]

Mine is C43659 which I think is from '48 but I'm not 100% sure.

 

[Butchbird]

Mine is C 5053 --- not sure of the date but it is a nice gun

 

[Engine49guy]

Looks like a nice one. The stocks are from the 1900-1910 decade, with the flat tops (where the medallion would go). The barrel does look original and should have the SN on the barrel flat.

Finally, this has the "speed hammer", which is correct for this era but may not be its official name. Enjoy!

While I am pretty sure there is such a thing as a "Speed Hammer" that was used on some early (pre 27 ?) models,

The "Official" name of the bent style hammer is the "Smith and Wesson High Speed Hammer" as quoted from the gold picture box.

The Unofficial name is the "Fishhook" hammer.

The (short throw) High Speed hammer combined with the 4 line address confirms your guns post war production.

Check the barrel serial number on its underside (flat area) as suggested if you doubt its originality.

Grips are (incorrect) pre war style.

K frame snubs do pop up on occasion,
IMO the pre war guns and round butt versions seem to be the minority.
Blue seems to be more common than Nickel, again just opinion.

Original grips should look like this.

Congrats and thanks for sharing.

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy Again

Yes, the SN matches on the bottom of the butt, the underside of the barrel, the rear of the cylinder and under the ejector star. I have not had a chance to shoot it yet, that should prove interesting. The only other 2" barreled gun I have is a Model 36.

 

[savasyn]

I'm a huge fan of snubby M&Ps. I currently have 3, two all original and one cut down from a longer barrel. It wouldn't surprise me if I eventually got another one...or two

 

[rzh]

That's a nice revolver

Hi folks, this is my first time posting and I have only been to this forum 2-3 times in the past week. I ran across this site while researching a gun that I inherited some years ago.
I have a Victory model .38spl, (V300609) with what I was told is a cut down barrel and non factory grips. Can anyone tell me more about this revolver?
I like it and I'd like to use it for concealed carry, but I'd like to change the grips and get a IWB holster for it first. Any advise? See below.

[/ATTACH]

 

[Driftwood Johnson]

Howdy Again

I had a chance to take it to the range today. The pistol range was unavailable today because of a class, so I had to shoot it at 25 yards at the rifle range. I usually like to start a little bit closer in with a new gun. Anyway, from a rest I was able to keep all my shots on the paper, and one group was only about 3 inches. Pretty good for a two inch barrel and my crappy eyesight.

I think its a keeper. I was even able to knock over some tin cans with it at 50 yards. Not every shot mind you, but I did hit them a few times.

 

[Art Doc]

rzh- I would not trust my life on a butchered up $100 gun. With the front ejector lug missing from the barrel chop and the chambers reamed oversize for the 38 Special these are not 100% reliable.

 

[KEN L]

rzh- I would not trust my life on a butchered up $100 gun. With the front ejector lug missing from the barrel chop and the chambers reamed oversize for the 38 Special these are not 100% reliable.

Who said anything about "the chambers being reamed oversize for the 38 Special"?? It probably WAS a .38 SPL that some nitwit bubba'd. Anyway, I wouldn't trust this as a defensive weapon either. Its strictly a conversational paper weight now.............

 

[rzh]

Sax, thanks for the info. I thought if I asked more experienced folks I would get good advice. I have shot it many, many years ago with fair results. Looks like it'll do to keep this as an heirloom piece and purchase another c&c weapon. Thanks again.

 

[DCWilson]

RZH, welcome to the forum. Your gun has definitely been modified significantly from its original configuration. What Saxon Pig was referring to is the lack of a locking lug under the barrel, which was lost when the barrel was cut. That's not a big deal with Colts, whose cylinders revolve clockwise. But the counter-clockwise rotation of the S&W cylinder means that with lots of use yoke looseness can develop, and the cylinder may go out of alignment with the barrel at the moment of firing.

In addition, your Victory was originally Parkerized, and has now been refinished in nickel. The grips are like nothing I have ever seen on S&W revolvers, and may have come from another brand of revolver with modifications to make them fit. Those changes won't affect function, but I am worried about the front sight. It looks as though it was simply cut from the lost part of the barrel and soldered on again near the new muzzle without adjustment for height. I realize that no one uses a short-barrel .38 for target work, but I would suspect that gun might hit low if you rely on a conventional target picture at anything other than close-in shooting distances.

The chambering question stems from the fact that Victory models were made in .38 Special for US forces and in .38 S&W (also called .38/200) for Commonwealth forces. If your gun was originally produced for British use as a lend-lease gun, it would have been chambered in .38 S&W. We can't tell which at this point because the barrel markings have been polished off. Many of the lend-lease guns had their chambers bored out to take the longer .38 Special cartridge when they were released to the commercial market and reimported to the US after WWII. But the .38 Special has a slightly smaller diameter than the .38 S&W, so the longer cartridges are loose in the chambers near the base and can swell when fired. In the worst case (overbored chambers or weak .38 Special brass), the cases can even split. This is what lies behind SP's concern.

This revolver is a heck of a lot better than no revolver in a situation where a gun may be required. But a revolver that was designed with a short barrel in the first place would be better for the defensive purposes you have in mind. I would encourage you to consider getting one, and then retire this one to the desk drawer as a historical conversation piece.

EDITED TO ADD: I see you had the same thought and posted it while I was composing my lengthier comments. That's the way to go.

 

[Art Doc]

Ken L- I made an assumption based on experience. The 4" guns are very, very rarely chopped shorter. The 5" guns in 38 S&W almost always are cut in these "conversions." So, with the barrel cut I assume it was a 5" gun in 38 S&W and along with the barrel chop they always seem to have been reamed for Specials.

I'll bet $100 I am right about this gun. Care to put your money where your mouth is or do you just prefer to throw stones?

 

[rzh]

Hey folks thanks again.From what I've gathered from the highly respected knowledge here, I think I will just put the trigger lock back on it and get a proper c/c weapon (preferrably S&W).
This is a great forum. Thanks