goinfshn
Member
You are right. My mistake. Thank you for catching that.
Ultra tight recoil spring on Shield
- Thread starter 2tango2
- Start date
ChiefStealth
US Veteran
Maybe this one. (a flame usually gets posted when I post this link)
Smith and Wesson Shield Guide Rod - Stainless Steel Guide Rods
Last edited:
Why be flamed for that....because they want you to send your assembly in to them?
The only problem I see with the information is it says the factory rod is plastic. The best that I can tell, mine is metal.
ADDED:
Here's what I think the problem is.....the guide rod is not of large enough diameter. What I mean is the difference between the O.D. of the rod and the I.D. of the large spring is too great. This allows the spring to get all slinkied when compressed and it binds up. I'm no gunsmith or spring expert, but this sure seems like the problem to me.
I had a Glock 22 Gen.4 with a similar style RSA. I replaced it with a Gen.3 guide rod and spring, which was the same type of ribbon style spring as this one, only a lot longer. The spring fit the rod very closely, thereby preventing it from getting all out of shape when compressed. The ends of the spring were also "formed" and flattened out like a washer, rather than simply cut like the factory Shield spring seems to be.
I'm going to contact the SS Guide Rods company and ask them if their rods are of larger O.D. than the stock rods.
The only problem I see with the information is it says the factory rod is plastic. The best that I can tell, mine is metal.
ADDED:
Here's what I think the problem is.....the guide rod is not of large enough diameter. What I mean is the difference between the O.D. of the rod and the I.D. of the large spring is too great. This allows the spring to get all slinkied when compressed and it binds up. I'm no gunsmith or spring expert, but this sure seems like the problem to me.
I had a Glock 22 Gen.4 with a similar style RSA. I replaced it with a Gen.3 guide rod and spring, which was the same type of ribbon style spring as this one, only a lot longer. The spring fit the rod very closely, thereby preventing it from getting all out of shape when compressed. The ends of the spring were also "formed" and flattened out like a washer, rather than simply cut like the factory Shield spring seems to be.
I'm going to contact the SS Guide Rods company and ask them if their rods are of larger O.D. than the stock rods.
Last edited:
I thank each of you for your horror stories regarding the slide during reassembly. You have saved my sanity.
I spent the better part of fifteen minutes trying to reassemble my new Shield. No matter what I did, I simply could not lock the slide in order to flip the slide release lever.
Finally, with effort I did not know I had, I got the slide back farther about 1/8" and the slide allowed me to move the slide stop and then the slide release lever in place.
This was harder for me to do than with a new Les Baer 1911.
Regardless of what has been said about the springs being needed this way, I have never had this problem with small size Glocks, FN or Kahr striker fire pistols.
I spent the better part of fifteen minutes trying to reassemble my new Shield. No matter what I did, I simply could not lock the slide in order to flip the slide release lever.
Finally, with effort I did not know I had, I got the slide back farther about 1/8" and the slide allowed me to move the slide stop and then the slide release lever in place.
This was harder for me to do than with a new Les Baer 1911.
Regardless of what has been said about the springs being needed this way, I have never had this problem with small size Glocks, FN or Kahr striker fire pistols.
Sigsavvy
Member
Same issue here with my 40 shield. It did not happen in the store but after I reassembled after cleaning. Its a 50/50 on whether I can rack the slide far enough too lock it. Called s-w and they are sending a new rsa. Could take 12 days since they are backorderd. Probably sending a bunch out to folks. Hope the new one works better. Haven't even shot it yet.
shart1971
Member
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2012
- Messages
- 125
- Reaction score
- 49
My slide was hard to rack back also. I called S&W and they sent me a new RSA out. It was also hard to rack back. I only shot 250 rounds. I think it still needs more rounds before it breaks in.
But however, I have two RSA now and I purchased the stainless steel guide rod and sent my OEM guide rod in to fit the spring on the stainless one. I should be getting it tomorrow. They have fast turnround service. I will post my result on it and range report in a few days.
Smith and Wesson Shield Guide Rod - Stainless Steel Guide Rods
I've never had this problem with any semi-auto handgun I've owned, ever. Striker or hammer, they all have recoil springs and guide rods. This is the first and only handgun I've owned with a problem like this.
shart,
I look forward to reading about your results, as well as comparison pics if you get a chance.....thank you!!
Last edited:
shart1971
Member
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2012
- Messages
- 125
- Reaction score
- 49
Got the stainless steel guide rod in the mail today. Will post pictures soon and a range report this Saturday.
Jayhawkokie
Member
I checked out the web site for the replacement guide rod, it says it replaces the plastic guide rod in the Shield. I just checked the guide rod in my Shield 9 that I have had about a month, my guide rod is shiny, looks like it could be SS, and the end piece that retains the spring is steel, I checked it with a magnet.
shart1971
Member
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2012
- Messages
- 125
- Reaction score
- 49
Here are the photos of the SS guide rod that I got. After installing it, to me it is easier to rack the slide and to move the take down lever. We will find out Saturday how it performs at the range. So far so good. Plus, its a lot easier to insert then the original OEM guide rod.
Attachments
How come there are no reviews on the company's web site? Just asking.
Add me to the list of people who had a heck of a time getting the Shield (9mm) back together after an initial cleaning prior to shooting. The problem led me to this thread. Positioning the spring in the 6 o'clock position didn't make it any easier. I had to power it back with all my strength.
The gun doesn't want to go in to battery after a press check unless I give it a little nudge. I assume this also has to do with the RSA. Anxious to hear if a new recoil spring from Smith fixes it.
These issues took all the fun out of buying a new gun today
The gun doesn't want to go in to battery after a press check unless I give it a little nudge. I assume this also has to do with the RSA. Anxious to hear if a new recoil spring from Smith fixes it.
These issues took all the fun out of buying a new gun today
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2015
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
I must have been lucky. I cleaned my new Shield 9 for the first time yesterday and didn't have any trouble reassembling it. I must have just put the RSA back in just right by chance.
The positioning didn't matter in the case of my pistol. The assembly or spring was bad.....binding up and preventing the slide from being racked fully.
The guy initially told me that new guns are tight and it would get better after a couple boxes are shot through it. I asked him if I could try the RSA from the display model, and when I did, it functioned just fine. When he put the RSA from my brand new unfired pistol into the display model, it would not function.
He then got the store manager over to look at it, and he said to give me the working RSA, and they would send the defective one back to S&W with the display model. He also said he was concerned about the rest of them, and he was going to inspect them due to what I had brought to their attention.
Sent via phone
The guy initially told me that new guns are tight and it would get better after a couple boxes are shot through it. I asked him if I could try the RSA from the display model, and when I did, it functioned just fine. When he put the RSA from my brand new unfired pistol into the display model, it would not function.
He then got the store manager over to look at it, and he said to give me the working RSA, and they would send the defective one back to S&W with the display model. He also said he was concerned about the rest of them, and he was going to inspect them due to what I had brought to their attention.
Sent via phone
I think that it's going to take a few dealers sending stock back to get S&W interested. Mine has had three springs and a trip back to the factory. It's still harder than heck. There is no way my wife or daughter can use this gun regularly without help.
I bought a second SIG P938 today to serve their needs. I'm putting the Shield on the market. It's had a thousand rounds through it. It's otherwise perfect and it shoots great, but the spring ruins it for carrying for them, and we have better range guns so it has failed to find a use at our house. I love the way it shoots, it's size, and the way it feels in my hand. But we just have too much trouble racking it.
I bought a second SIG P938 today to serve their needs. I'm putting the Shield on the market. It's had a thousand rounds through it. It's otherwise perfect and it shoots great, but the spring ruins it for carrying for them, and we have better range guns so it has failed to find a use at our house. I love the way it shoots, it's size, and the way it feels in my hand. But we just have too much trouble racking it.
Man... Too bad you couldn't have used it as a trade towards the P938.
True... You wouldn't have gotten as much in trade as you could selling it yourself, but do you really want to sell a pistol you feel is defective/flawed to another individual?
Stu Honea
Member
The Shields are very tight when new.Some of the stiffness can be alleviated by leaving the slide locked back for 7 or 8 days.
Also leave the magazines loaded for the same amount of time.This,and just simply shooting it a few hundred rounds will make a noticeable difference.
When you get the slide locked back take notice of the orientation of where the lock engages the slide.It is further back than it should be and the internal portion of the slide lock is angled back.
It was not designed to be used as a slide release as most other pistols.A small design flaw in my opinion,but just slingshot the slide to chamber and you'll have no trouble.With practice this will become easier and faster to do.
Don't start grinding and sanding on this quality pistol,just follow this procedure and let it break in.It won't take long and you'll be better off for it.
Also leave the magazines loaded for the same amount of time.This,and just simply shooting it a few hundred rounds will make a noticeable difference.
When you get the slide locked back take notice of the orientation of where the lock engages the slide.It is further back than it should be and the internal portion of the slide lock is angled back.
It was not designed to be used as a slide release as most other pistols.A small design flaw in my opinion,but just slingshot the slide to chamber and you'll have no trouble.With practice this will become easier and faster to do.
Don't start grinding and sanding on this quality pistol,just follow this procedure and let it break in.It won't take long and you'll be better off for it.
