UPDATED: Tolerable level of pitting on a used stainless steel revolver

[T2star]

I'm looking at a used 649 that appears to have a decent amount of pitting on the frame along the backstrap and either side along the grip. The rubber grips look pretty worn, and I'm tempted to ask if they could be removed for inspection underneath. While the rest of the piece looks in fairly good shape, just in need of a good clean and polish. How far is too far in asking to inspect the weapon further? Is taking the sideplate off too far? If it otherwise functions well, and the price is right, would it still be worth considering?

 

[sigp220.45]

I bought this 66-1 and had to cut the grips off.

Stainless guns will rust. This one cleaned up pretty well, but there is some pitting.

 

[JH1951]

It would seem to me that these questions posed to different people will yield different answers. I will start at the end..... '...(if) the price is right, would it still be worth considering?' Sure, if the price is right. For me, it would have to be a very low price due to the pitting. So low in fact that I wouldn't expect to come to agreement with the seller. But, if one doesn't try to agree, one will never know. The price tag usually lets me know if my offer would be insulting, but I wouldn't walk away before asking if there is any room to negotiate. Honestly, I have little use for a gun that is relatively common and in poor condition.
As for disassembly, that all depends upon the seller. Looking under grips would on the surface seem a simple task, and not too much to ask. Popping off the sideplate could be an entirely different story. If I was the seller, I would not allow a prospective buyer to pop a plate unless there was a compelling reason to do so, and I would likely reserve the right to do it myself. And then you are at the mercy of my mood and availability to spend the time. If the buyer is known to me as very competent with this task I might consider it. It really isn't too hard to evaluate the condition of an action without taking it apart, so I would likely draw the line somewhere well before removing a sideplate.
I would have to evaluate the situation by asking myself why it is that I want it - what purpose will it serve to me, and what is the value of a handgun that serves that purpose?
My EDC is a 649. Been carrying and shooting it for years. Thus far, no pitting, so I'd likely not give a pitted one very much attention.

 

[T2star]

JH, I very much appreciate your response, as it is speaking to the nagging voice in my head to just walk away. I've been growing impatient waiting for a good condition 649 at what I think is a reasonable price, and I think it will be best to just keep searching.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

JH, I very much appreciate your response, as it is speaking to the nagging voice in my head to just walk away. I've been growing impatient waiting for a good condition 649 at what I think is a reasonable price, and I think it will be best to just keep searching.

It depends upon what you want the gun for. If you are going to make it an every day carry then who cares about a little putting as long as it's in perfect shooting condition.

Bring the tools with you and explain to the seller the pitting scares you and you would like to check inside to be sure there is no damage inside. Tell him you are willing to buy if the inside is undamaged. That should work well without and pushback. Of course this is just my opinion.

 

[Jason Demond]

A lot of what appears to be rust is nothing more than just dry lube. It could be rust, but more than likely is just dried lube. Some lubes dry to a brown varnish like material and take some elbow grease to get off.

 

[T2star]

Arch, you're very correct, and I will still talk to the guy. I do take a lot of pride in keeping my pieces pristine, no matter how hard I use them, and have a few used ones bearing the marks of the prior owner. I have enjoyed getting a few that were likely neglected and giving them the respect they deserve. I think the asking is just too much on this one, when I believe I can wait it out, find one in better condition, and be the one who adds that patina. Along those lines, what do you guys think is a reasonable asking price for a very nice condition 649 these days? Looking at old auctions and prior posts, there is no way I'm going to see the prices of years ago, but the ones I've come across going from $700 to the one in question, to one in somewhat better looking condition getting into $900+, which just seems too high to me.

 

[crazyphil]

Here is a model 67 no dash. When I bought it had pits and scratches.
I had a local smith bead blast it. I like the finish results. I also think
the black Craig Spegel designed combats look good with the silver gun.

 

[ACORN]

I bought a 2-1/2" Model 66 that looked to be cruddy for a good price. When I got home I discovered that the crud was pitting around the Pachs, but only on the left side. Inboard right hand carry.
I wanted to puke.
In blind lust when I found it I didn't check it out closely.
I fretted about it for a month or so.
After reading a post here about sanding out pits I had at it one Saturday.
It came out looking really good.
I doubt anyone would know if I didn't tell them.
My biggest issue was getting the nerve up to take sandpaper to one of my guns.
I replaced the Pachs with a set of magnas I had.
Not bad for $400 and an hour or sos work.

 

[H Richard]

Removing grips wouldn't be a problem with me, but asking to remove the side plate I draw the line. I have no idea of your expertise and I'm not about to let a stranger open up one of my guns. If they insisted, I would ask for a $75 Gunsmithing fee for me to do it.

 

[Buick]

Blending out pitting on stainless is quite easy to do with a good die grinder like a Dotco brand, and red and green scotchbrite buffing pads. Just go very lightly. I personally use a cheap Ingersoll-Rand die grinder, but i sure miss my Dotco that i use at work.

Just keep the pad flat to the surface you are working, and keep it moving. Go very lightly. Practice on some scrap metal. Stay away from critical areas. Remember, if you take too much metal off, you're going to have to make friends with a really good TIG man.

 

[Heinz]

When you see that pitting on stainless, or even if it is dried lubricant crud, you know the weapon has received poor treatment. It it was an AK47 or a Tokarev pistol it might be tolerant of the abuse. If it is a Luger or an S&W, run away, run away.

 

[chief38]

I could deal with surface rust on a stainless gun or very minor pitting only under the grips. Anything more than that - I'd pass. If there is visible pitting on the frame, cylinder, barrel - I personally would not buy it unless it was a hundred dollar project gun. Surface rust is easy to deal with and easily removable without any scarring.

 

[T2star]

I went today, and left with her. The gentleman was kind enough to allow me to remove the decrepit rubber grips, which did reveal a decent amount of rust underneath, and on the pics you can see some minimal residual pitting behind the cylinder release which was previously along the grip. I negotiated $100 off the asking, and the price was right. I did not bother to ask to remove the sideplate, despite being a little worried, as the action felt fine and the function was flawless. I got about 95% rust removed from under the grips with rem oil and a bronze brush. The residual pitting feels essentially flush with the surface to the touch, and I'm fairly confident with a little more work I can get it close to 99%. Needless to say, for something entering the EDC rotation, I'm quite happy after all. As a bonus, included were a really nice set of wood stocks, which is my preference, and saves me another ebay purchase.

There is no more fun to me than opening these old girls and doing a full disassembly and deep clean, and to my surprise the internals were with only minimal surface rust.

The only peculiar thing I encountered on reassembly was a lot of resistance on the ejector on a few cylinder chambers. I was worried I had somehow bent the ejector rod, and after reading online, found some people encountered this when they had tightened the rod too much. After tightening it stiff by hand, it's all smooth. Perhaps I had just tightened it too much with the pliers?

She locks up nice n tight, action is smooth, SA super crisp. I got the Techna Clip attached, and next stop will be the range to get her dirty again.

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

 

[GypsmJim]

When you see that pitting on stainless, or even if it is dried lubricant crud, you know the weapon has received poor treatment. It it was an AK47 or a Tokarev pistol it might be tolerant of the abuse. If it is a Luger or an S&W, run away, run away.

I would personally be concerned if a modern SS handgun was pitted. I mean, how badly could the previous owners have abused it?

OTOH, my blued 1908 Luger IS pitted. But internally its not too bad and it shoots fine. I mean, for goodness sake its been thru 2 WARS and police service as well.

 

[Heinz]

I would personally be concerned if a modern SS handgun was pitted. I mean, how badly could the previous owners have abused it?

OTOH, my blued 1908 Luger IS pitted. But internally its not too bad and it shoots fine. I mean, for goodness sake its been thru 2 WARS and police service as well.

Pitting on a three theater of service Luger is like bluing loss on a Colt 1911 that's been through both wars, just marks of having been there. But not a guarantee of reliability