Use of Renaissance Wax??

[dlbx2]

I am 58 years old, and for blue finishes, it is the most useful item for polishing and protecting the finish that I have ever seen. I just bought another 200ml can. Great for the grips & presentation case as well. Go online sometime and read the history and makeup of this product
DLB

 

[rck281]

I have a problem when using Ren Wax that I'm hoping someone can help with. When I wax a blued gun, when dry the wax forms a white film in the lettering. I find it very difficult to remove. I DO NOT want white lettering. Any suggestions?

 

[Bill_Johnson]

I have a problem when using Ren Wax that I'm hoping someone can help with. When I wax a blued gun, when dry the wax forms a white film in the lettering. I find it very difficult to remove. I DO NOT want white lettering. Any suggestions?

Don't let it dry for too long on any surface. I would re-apply a little and polish off right away.

I use this stuff on my knives and never have an issue with rust or other debris sticking to them.

 

[rck281]

The problem is that the wax dries in the lettering and turns white. I'm trying to use it on collectable guns that will never be shot. I have tried using a small new paint brush and a new tooth brush with some luck. It's even difficult to clean it with a tooth pick. Am I the only one with this issue?

 

[Stirling]

I have two blued N-frames and wanted to polish them in the manner described here. I spent some time in the US in December and tried finding Renaissance Wax without success. I did find a pot of Mothers Mag polish which I bought because I remembered some on here used Mothers. My question is, is Mothers Mag polish safe to use on my blued guns?

 

[arjay]

No! It's abrasive and will remove the blueing.
You can find renwax at woodworking stores,eBay and amazon.

 

[Watchdog]

I've never waxed a gun in my life.

 

[pinoakflats]

Me neither Watchdog.

 

[arjay]

Take some mineral spirits clean the oil and grease off,wax that sucker up and lay it on mamas brand new sofa.She will never know [emoji1]

 

[chief38]

I don't wax my guns either - too much darn trouble cleaning off the Oil , waxing them, shooting them, cleaning, degreasing and re-waxing for my liking. While I do own Renwax and love the stuff, I use it all around the house and Cars and it does a very good job.

I have Renwaxed my BB Brass cartridges that sit in my Leather Pouches so they stay clean a bit longer - that Verdigris really builds up fast when Brass is against Leather. It doesn't prevent the Verdigris 100% and forever, but it really helps prolong the process and I also wax the inside of the pouches as well for even longer lasting results.

If I did have "show guns" that I never shot and just drooled over once in a while, YES I would definitely Renwax the heck out o f them!

 

[glowe]

I always have to add my 2 cents worth (or if you are talking about Renaissance wax), my $20 worth. There is something that I will never understand about this product and that is the cost. I know a jar "lasts forever", but I cannot find any data that supports this product over others. I have a small amount and about the only time I use it is if I want some high quality photos taken. I have a large can of Johnson's Paste was and use that on almost everything.

First, the make-up of these products is basically solubilizer and wax.

Johnson Paste Wax
Deodorized Naptha, 75-80%; Microcrystalline wax, 5-10%; Carnauba wax, 5%; Paraffin wax, 10%

Renaissance Wax
White Spirits, 80%; Microcrystalline wax, 20%

Cost for Renaissance wax is an astounding $10.22/ounce, while JPW is $0.37/ounce.

H Richard is absolutely correct in that wax will be quickly cut by the use of oils and bore cleaners (solubilizers) and to maintain wax protection, you need to re-wax after every gun cleaning.

I found that over the last 20 years or so, a spray with B/C Barricade does the job for me after every cleaning and I can periodically spread out some newspapers and go through my entire collection in less than 30 minutes time. I have never had lifting or bubbling of nickel, loss of finish on blued guns, and they all look the same as when I purchased them.

 

[ben_g1]

I have a problem when using Ren Wax that I'm hoping someone can help with. When I wax a blued gun, when dry the wax forms a white film in the lettering. I find it very difficult to remove. I DO NOT want white lettering. Any suggestions?

You can use mineral spirits to remove the Ren-wax. My guess is your putting it on too thick. Use your finger with just a wipe of the wax. If you can see the wax on your finger (as a clump or smear) that's too much.


"H Richard is absolutely correct in that wax will be quickly cut by the use of oils and bore cleaners (solubilizers) and to maintain wax protection, you need to re-wax after every gun cleaning."
Not sure if this is correct. Ren-wax is not effected by oils and alcohols.

 

[glowe]

. . . Ren-wax is not effected by oils and alcohols.

Oils are hydrocarbon based chemicals that will display all the same traits of lighter hydrocarbons like spirits, paint thinners, and napthas. Therefore, all hydrocarbons will dissolve wax. The more viscous (heavier) the hydrocarbon, the longer it takes to dissolve the wax, but oil will degrade wax. Wax in paste form is essentially dissolved solid wax in a light hydrocarbon, which upon application, evaporates, leaving the wax. Bore cleaners can not be kept only in the bore when cleaning and will spill over onto the barrel, frame, and outside of the cylinder. These products are very good cleaners, including the ability to remove of waxes even faster than oils. My point is that over time, hydrocarbons will remove the wax, and it is wise to re-wax after every cleaning if that is the way you are protecting and storing your firearms.

You are correct in that waxes are not sensitive to alcohols, which are a different chemical family than hydrocarbons.

 

[tlmetesh]

We wax all of the guns in the museum. If it's something that has been recently shot, we clean it like you would any other gun, wipe it down to make sure it's not dripping wet, and then apply a coat of wax to the entire gun.

 

[billlenk]

Need Help S&W Catalog

Just got my Standard Catalog of S&W
Now cant find were in book to look for my date of MfG of a 5906 KLF2228
thanks Bill in Texas

 

[gwpercle]

Mother's makes a pure carnuba wax, Californa Gold , that works well for metal. Got it at local auto parts store. Ren wax + postage was a bit out of my budget. If I didn't like it for my gun, I could use the Mother's Wax on my car.
The model 58 in my avatar got a cleaning with Turtle Wax Chrome polish and Rust Remover, and a wax with Mother's Gold and looks great! On both car and gun.
Wax tends to stay on the blued metal surface and looks very good....I like it!
Gary

 

[DWalt]

I have used Johnson's paste wax for many years, and I cannot imagine that Ren Wax is superior in any way - except cost. Microcrystalline and paraffin waxes are both petroleum based - just different hydrocarbon molecules. Microcrystalline waxes are branched hydrocarbon isomers. Paraffin waxes have straight chain hydrocarbons. Carnauba wax is extracted from palm leaves, and is what provides the "shine". All waxes can be removed by solvents. All consumer wax formulations contain solvents like mineral spirits, as the waxes themselves are fairly hard solids, and couldn't be applied without some solvent to soften them, allowing them to spread.

 

[italiansport]

We wax all of the guns in the museum. If it's something that has been recently shot, we clean it like you would any other gun, wipe it down to make sure it's not dripping wet, and then apply a coat of wax to the entire gun.

Are you using Ren Wax or some other wax? Please elaborate.
Jim

 

[arjay]

I've used a couple of different paste waxes on rifle and shotgun stocks over the years,but it seems like renwax maintains its shine longer on those and on blued steel.

 

[Camster]

Renaissance wax? It's like Frank's Red Hot.I put that ..............You complete the sentence. ;-P