Used Car Negotiating Advice

Thanks, Tom. My problem is that when I show up and give the guy my DL he will know that I drove 90 miles to come and see this particular car. No hiding that.

I live in Chattanooga and have bought all my cars on casual stops at Toyota dealers in Atlanta on the way home from business. -- No hiding that.:D
 
Firstly, demand for used cars is up. There is a probably more demand for cars in the $4k-$6k range. Huge demand, low supply.

Second, don't assume that you know how much the dealer has in it. He may have a lot more in it than its worth and may be banking on selling it to the right buyer+. Our dealership has a special finance department. We can get people financed on these type of cars if they have money down, so it doesn't matter that we are over book in them. The dealer may not be willing to sell it for a loss.

Be willing to negotiate. To many people, this means the dealer does all of the giving. You have to be willing to give as well.

At the end of the day, know what the car is worth to you? Are there other cars of comparable price with that low of mileage? If the dealer offers you a fair price, what is your time worth to run back and forth looking for a better deal. Many people often forget that the lowest price isn't always the best deal.

Know what you can afford and find a car that fits your budget. My biggest pet peave as a salesman is that people say "your too high", when what they really mean is "That's more car than I can afford".
 
I negotiated on a used car last Spring, 2008 Camry for Mom. 4 of us went in on it, I was voted to find the deal. My offer was turned down, we were saying goodby & they come down enough to close it. Not my favorite thing, to play those games but that's the way it is. If they don't want to sell they can stick with no.
 
Two flaws in your thinking.

First: You DO NOT have to finance the car. You just have to make the salesman think you are financing the car. After you buy the car they will take you to their finance manager to do the paper work. All you have to do is tell the finance manager you changed your mind. And you decided to pay cash. He will not like it, but the price is already on the buyer's order. I have done it many times. I buy one to three cars a month for old customers who call me all the time for advice.

Not sure why you are showing your drivers license until after you buy the car??

Tom, I understand now what you were saying about financing the car.

As to showing my DL, won't he want a copy before he hands me the keys for a test drive? That's the way it has always worked in the past. Also in that regard, I did call the guy last Friday just to be sure that the car was still available (I saw it on-line). Of course, I politely gave him my name (and asked for his), so when I show up he will likely put 2 and 2 together, even if I am not polite and do not remind him of our conversation.

Bottom line: the car is at market prices current prices, easily worth $6500, not counting taxes and tags, which is my top limit. If I get it for close to $6000 plus taxes and tags, I'll be grinnin' like a 'coon in a peach tree.

Thanks again for educating me.


Bullseye


P.S.: I went on to the Car Talk website and found several highly regarded mechanics near by to where this car is located. I will call them to see who is willing to do the pre-sale inspection, and pick one, so I will have that knowledge as extra security when I come back from the test drive and negotiate the deal. I am feeling very comfortable with this.
 
Used cars are a funny thing. And they are a profit center for dealers.

However if the car has been there a week or so then they do not have a large demand for the car, and that plays to your advantage.

I guarantee you one thing. On highly sought after used cars I can and have sold them in five minutes over the phone without a customer even looking at them. A highly sought after used car will always sell in a day or less on any reputable used car lot. Especially in today's market.

So obviously this is not a HOT USED car for them. And again this plays in your favor. The longer it sits on their lot the less they will take.

Someone above did say one thing that is very true. Never assume you know what they have in the car. They may have bent over backwards with the previous owner to make his deal.

One last thing. Having a mechanic look at the car is a great idea. It can easily be the best $100 or however much you have ever spent. And the dealer selling the car should have no problem with you having the car checked out. If the dealer has a problem with you having it checked out then run away from them as fast as you can, regardless of the price they give you on the car.I never had a problem with a customer taking a car to a mechanic. But then I always worked for reputable dealers who took care of their customers. Contrary to popular believe, those type dealers do exist. Tom.
 
AFAIK, you pay sales tax where the car gets registered. At least that's the way it is up here.

Absolutely correct. A reputable dealer will collect the sales tax for the state it is going to be registered in. Then he should give you all the paperwork along with a check made out to your state DMV for the title(and taxes, fees, and registration). That is the proper procedure. Tom.
 
Sounds to me your on the right track.A bunch of good advice here.
Remember age can create as many problems as mileage.Timing belts and other things that have limited life.Fluid changes and such can be just as important on a low mileage yet older car.
All of that being said,It looks like a beauty.I hope you make a good deal.Let us know.
 
Tom, Thanks again. I will check on the sales tax procedure further. It is 3% in both North Carolina (where they call it a road use fee) and in Virginia. I think the procedure for out of state sales is that I pay in North Carolina and then present the paperwork at the Virginia DMV and get the tags there. If the car is being registered in Virginia for the first time, and tax was paid in another state, Virginia gives you a 100% credit for it. Either that, or the dealer gives me a check made out to the Virginia DMV. So, I am looking at around $200 (at my price) for taxes. Tags and title fees are a couple of bucks on top of that.

Thanks to everyone for their good advice and good wishes.

DG, rest assured after last week's disaster that the first thing I am going to do when I get home is to have my mechanic go over this puppy with a fine-toothed comb. These Chryslers have a serpentine belt, and if that snaps, you've about about 10 seconds (I exaggerate, but it is not much) to stop the car before you cook the engine.


Bullseye
 
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New Tags?

I hope I am not jumping the gun :D on this, but if this deal goes down, I am thinking of new tags. . .something like this:

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Bullseye
 
Go in there with $6k (and $500 in another pocket) and don't be afraid to walk if he says no. I like Seabee's answer.
MOST IMPORTANT-do NOT take Shooboy with you. :D

LMAO !!! Thanks cajunlawyer, I needed that ! Yeah, guess I'm an easy mark. My wife is our negotiator. She got our 2006 Chevrolet Malibu Maxx for a great price. Car listed at $21,000. Somehow she got it for $12,750 and our 2001 Olds Alero with 173,000 miles on it !!! Go figure..... Shoo
 
Beautiful car, excellent low mileage example. I'd pay up to $7500 for that car all day. If you get it for $6K, you stole it !!!Good luck, great advice here, Shoo

Go in there with $6k (and $500 in another pocket) and don't be afraid to walk if he says no. I like Seabee's answer.
MOST IMPORTANT-do NOT take Shooboy with you. :D


Right. Buy the Chrysler for $6,000 and sell it to Shooboy. :p
 
I always use cargurus because dealerships hate the site (which means it is probably really good for the consumer). the average nation wide price for the vehicle you posted was $6164, but the average mileage was 3 times higher.

i think $6k-6500 is a completely fair/acceptable offer.

Thanks for the site, did some looking and this is where I'm going to get my new (to me) truck. Dont care if I have to drive 2 or 3 states away it looks like it will be more than worth it.
 
Thanks for the site, did some looking and this is where I'm going to get my new (to me) truck. Dont care if I have to drive 2 or 3 states away it looks like it will be more than worth it.

Very cool site. :cool: Thanks a lot for this. I can understand why the dealers hate these guys! :D This gives me confirmation that my offer will be spot on.


Bullseye
 
Absolutely correct. A reputable dealer will collect the sales tax for the state it is going to be registered in. Then he should give you all the paperwork along with a check made out to your state DMV for the title(and taxes, fees, and registration). That is the proper procedure. Tom.

That's not the procedure I have ever done. I pay the sales tax when I register the vehicle.
 
Please underline A REPUTABLE DEALER. It costs extra for a dealer to do this. But it is prudent unless they are just trying to save a buck. If the selling dealer does not make a check out to the proper DMV then they could come after the dealer for the sales tax(privilege tax in proper term). The only way the dealer can be sure the customer is going to pay the sales tax is because the check is made out to the state tax department or DMV, and not left up to the customer to pay.

The reason why alot of dealers did this is because foreign buyers were buying lots of used cars and shipping them overseas(South America mostly). And the buyers were not paying the sales tax(privilege tax) because they were not titling the vehicles in America. So the dealers were stuck paying the tax.

So notice reputable dealer is the key word. I sold alot of old Chevies to a buyer who shipped old used Chevies to S. America. Learned this lesson first hand. Tom.
 

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