Used model 28-2 needs refinish
- Thread starter LostintheOzone
- Start date
Leave it as it is and just enjoy it as S&W"s greatest utility N-Frame revolver!
My 1973 example has the most bluing loss of any handgun I own -and I wouldn't change it one iota. It's got character and shows itself to have been of service, very possibly to someone wearing the badge. If only it could talk.
-Bill
Right Side Shows Most Wear;
Black Washer, Non-Diamond Magnas On Order
My 1973 example has the most bluing loss of any handgun I own -and I wouldn't change it one iota. It's got character and shows itself to have been of service, very possibly to someone wearing the badge. If only it could talk.
-Bill
Right Side Shows Most Wear;
Black Washer, Non-Diamond Magnas On Order
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I hope you got a super low price on the gun because it will cost at least $325 - $375 to refinish it including round trip freight (for a good quality bluing job).
I have always recommended that one should spend a few more bucks on the original purchase and get one that is in excellent condition to avoid refinishing. This way you get the original finish and you have no hassles, worries, wait times and additional expenses to refinish it. Before buying a used revolver that you know already needs to be refinished, looking into the cost and hassle is a good idea to do first. Stainless guns are a bit more forgiving and I've personally brought some basket cases back from the dead in one day, right on my own work bench.
50 years ago re-bluing a Revolver was a relatively inexpensive and easy job for the Factory to do. Today is another story!
BTW, after looking at you picture, the gun looks to be OK as is. Unless there is something drastic on the other (unseen) side, why do you want to refinish it? You do realize that a M28 never came with the high polished finish that the M27 came with, correct? Looks OK to me - at least with the limited picture posted.
I have always recommended that one should spend a few more bucks on the original purchase and get one that is in excellent condition to avoid refinishing. This way you get the original finish and you have no hassles, worries, wait times and additional expenses to refinish it. Before buying a used revolver that you know already needs to be refinished, looking into the cost and hassle is a good idea to do first. Stainless guns are a bit more forgiving and I've personally brought some basket cases back from the dead in one day, right on my own work bench.
50 years ago re-bluing a Revolver was a relatively inexpensive and easy job for the Factory to do. Today is another story!
BTW, after looking at you picture, the gun looks to be OK as is. Unless there is something drastic on the other (unseen) side, why do you want to refinish it? You do realize that a M28 never came with the high polished finish that the M27 came with, correct? Looks OK to me - at least with the limited picture posted.
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hemiram
Member
The OP's gun looks better (slightly) than any of my 3 28-2's, and I don't think any of mine need refinishing.
notsofast
Member
I have a HP with thinned blueing and a slightly brown haze from fine rust I think. The target grips have a few small chunks missing, I like it just the way it is. I have a 3" mdl 36 that's in the same condition, it's getting S&W combat grips and a refinish. Your gun make it what you want and as stated it's original only once.
OP
Update.
I dropped by my dealer today and looked at the piece. Other than a few small blemishes in the finish it's in pretty close to new condition. Everything is tight and crisp. The photo that I posted really doesn't do this revolver justice. The barrel and frame finish have not aged the same and have taken on a different look. It looks like the barrel received a different finish than the frame but I'm pretty sure it's original. I have a 10 day wait so I won't be posting any pictures for awhile. I'll do that when I get it home and continue this thread.
Overall, I think it was a great purchase. First N frame 357 in my safe and I plan to get it dirty.
Thanks for all of the responses.
I dropped by my dealer today and looked at the piece. Other than a few small blemishes in the finish it's in pretty close to new condition. Everything is tight and crisp. The photo that I posted really doesn't do this revolver justice. The barrel and frame finish have not aged the same and have taken on a different look. It looks like the barrel received a different finish than the frame but I'm pretty sure it's original. I have a 10 day wait so I won't be posting any pictures for awhile. I'll do that when I get it home and continue this thread.
Overall, I think it was a great purchase. First N frame 357 in my safe and I plan to get it dirty.
Thanks for all of the responses.
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It is not uncommon for S&W revolvers to show a slightly different depth of color in the blueing between the cylinder, barrel, and frame. Sometimes parts will even take on a plum color. The Model 28, being a lower cost option for those who did not or could not afford a Model 27, received less attention to the details, including surface prep and blueing.
Bayou52
Member
I concur with the consensus: the OP's HP does not appear to be in need of refinishing.
On the other hand, and by contrast, I can present to our collective an example of a 28-2 that was definitely in need of refinishing/refurbishing. I bought it as a "rescue" and knowing that surgical intervention was in order. It was certainly previously neglected to the point of possibly having been previously abused as well: rusted, pitted, worn bluing, end shake, gritty trigger, etc.
I brought it to my local gunsmith "hospital" for a complete renovation. Some of the pitting was too deep to completely eliminate but I thought my guy did a pretty darn good job considering what he was faced with.
He tuned the cylinder to eliminate end shake, and also smoothed out the trigger so as to leave it with a 2.5 pound crisp break with no grit or creep whatsoever. This HP now feels like the classic S&W it really is.
I changed the grips to white color since I have an affinity to white grips and also because of the contrast between the white grip color and the deep/dark bluing that was applied.
So, I present this situation to contrast with that presented by the OP.
Before and after pics:
Best -
Bayou52
On the other hand, and by contrast, I can present to our collective an example of a 28-2 that was definitely in need of refinishing/refurbishing. I bought it as a "rescue" and knowing that surgical intervention was in order. It was certainly previously neglected to the point of possibly having been previously abused as well: rusted, pitted, worn bluing, end shake, gritty trigger, etc.
I brought it to my local gunsmith "hospital" for a complete renovation. Some of the pitting was too deep to completely eliminate but I thought my guy did a pretty darn good job considering what he was faced with.
He tuned the cylinder to eliminate end shake, and also smoothed out the trigger so as to leave it with a 2.5 pound crisp break with no grit or creep whatsoever. This HP now feels like the classic S&W it really is.
I changed the grips to white color since I have an affinity to white grips and also because of the contrast between the white grip color and the deep/dark bluing that was applied.
So, I present this situation to contrast with that presented by the OP.
Before and after pics:
Best -
Bayou52
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OP
Back again to discuss this 28-2 that I took a chance on without seeing it. I just picked this up today from a gunsmith/dealer who examined it and gave me his assessment.
It came with a matching box, tools, manual and registration card that was never filled out. The stamped # on the grips match the SN on the frame. S serial number that dates to about the same year I graduated from HS, 1967.
Gunsmith says he thinks it's been reblued at some point. No safe queen but certainly in excellent mechanical condition in his opinion. I think he may know a thing or two because he's a full service gunsmith. He pointed out the blueing wear in the cylinder recesses as a tell tale sign of a refinish. Also some thinning of the finish on the edges of the frame. The logo and other stamps are crisp and clear which leads me to believe it wasn't refinished but I'll yield to his his vast knowledge as he does just about any finish you want including bright polished blue. We discussed the cost of that.
Anyway here are some rather amateurish photos so you can decide. Overall I'm pleased to have it and plan on a range trip next week. I cleaned it up and the bore looks exceptionally good.
It came with a matching box, tools, manual and registration card that was never filled out. The stamped # on the grips match the SN on the frame. S serial number that dates to about the same year I graduated from HS, 1967.
Gunsmith says he thinks it's been reblued at some point. No safe queen but certainly in excellent mechanical condition in his opinion. I think he may know a thing or two because he's a full service gunsmith. He pointed out the blueing wear in the cylinder recesses as a tell tale sign of a refinish. Also some thinning of the finish on the edges of the frame. The logo and other stamps are crisp and clear which leads me to believe it wasn't refinished but I'll yield to his his vast knowledge as he does just about any finish you want including bright polished blue. We discussed the cost of that.
Anyway here are some rather amateurish photos so you can decide. Overall I'm pleased to have it and plan on a range trip next week. I cleaned it up and the bore looks exceptionally good.
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OP, I'm the last guy that will tell u not to refinish a gun that is not rare and not particularly valuable. However, THAT GUN does not need a re-blue. I like the look of a little honest wear…… unless of course the other side has zero finish left. Lol
OP
Update.
Shot this 28-2 today using 12.5 grns of 2400 and 158 LSWC. That's a middle of the ladder load. Too stiff for me without some different grips. Noticed some unburned power in the barrel. I know about unburned powder and 2400 so no surprise there. One needs to load it at max velocity to avoid it. Not a problem. That's what they designed it to do.
I tried some light cowboy loads at around 850 fps using American Select. Pretty mild but couldn't get the groups I had with 2400.
I found out that the revolver in question is well used. I can tell because I have some that aren't. So it was re-blued. Still tight enough for a shooter which was the reason I bought it.
Now I need to work up some loads that are in between my cowboy loads and the heavy hitters that 2400 delivers. Or maybe buy some better grips to shoot this lots-of-recoil N frame. I'm thinking some Hogue rubber to lessen the shock to my 73 yo wrists. I just popped a tendon in my right wrist and it hasn't healed up 100% yet.
Everything considered I like this revolver. Very accurate at 25 yds.
Any suggestions?
Shot this 28-2 today using 12.5 grns of 2400 and 158 LSWC. That's a middle of the ladder load. Too stiff for me without some different grips. Noticed some unburned power in the barrel. I know about unburned powder and 2400 so no surprise there. One needs to load it at max velocity to avoid it. Not a problem. That's what they designed it to do.
I tried some light cowboy loads at around 850 fps using American Select. Pretty mild but couldn't get the groups I had with 2400.
I found out that the revolver in question is well used. I can tell because I have some that aren't. So it was re-blued. Still tight enough for a shooter which was the reason I bought it.
Now I need to work up some loads that are in between my cowboy loads and the heavy hitters that 2400 delivers. Or maybe buy some better grips to shoot this lots-of-recoil N frame. I'm thinking some Hogue rubber to lessen the shock to my 73 yo wrists. I just popped a tendon in my right wrist and it hasn't healed up 100% yet.
Everything considered I like this revolver. Very accurate at 25 yds.
Any suggestions?
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I don't shoot magnum loads that often in my 4" 686 or 3.5" 27-2 (actually that one doesn't get shot that much at all lol). When I do with the 686 I put on the Hogue, helps with the arthritis in my hands.
Enjoy that great blaster!
Enjoy that great blaster!
austintexas
Member
grips
I have a pair of Hogues that I put on any magnum N frame I shoot, my wrist can't take the beating it used to.
SWCA 892
I have a pair of Hogues that I put on any magnum N frame I shoot, my wrist can't take the beating it used to.
SWCA 892
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Back again to discuss this 28-2 that I took a chance on without seeing it. I just picked this up today from a gunsmith/dealer who examined it and gave me his assessment.
It came with a matching box, tools, manual and registration card that was never filled out. The stamped # on the grips match the SN on the frame. S serial number that dates to about the same year I graduated from HS, 1967.
Gunsmith says he thinks it's been reblued at some point. No safe queen but certainly in excellent mechanical condition in his opinion. I think he may know a thing or two because he's a full service gunsmith. He pointed out the blueing wear in the cylinder recesses as a tell tale sign of a refinish. Also some thinning of the finish on the edges of the frame. The logo and other stamps are crisp and clear which leads me to believe it wasn't refinished but I'll yield to his his vast knowledge as he does just about any finish you want including bright polished blue. We discussed the cost of that.
Anyway here are some rather amateurish photos so you can decide. Overall I'm pleased to have it and plan on a range trip next week. I cleaned it up and the bore looks exceptionally good.
It looks nice. We need some closeup images of it to be certain but from this distance it is either original or a spectacular matte blue refinish. I sincerely doubt the latter.
Glad it shoots well, sorry that it turned out to be a well used, refinished revolver. Rubber stocks will cushion the shock of recoil better than wood, just make sure you remove them after every session and clean out any moisture and sweat from the rubber and the frame under the stocks.
OP
I'll see if I can get some close up pics today outside. I think we'll have a cloudy day so there won't be any glare. I'm still not convinced it's been re-blued but I'm leaning in that direction.
New guns in a gun shop will have a turn line from "Tire Kickers" examing the weapon and playing with the action.
The gun shop I worked P/T finally used plastic ties to keep the actions lock. If a "Real" customer requested we cut the plastic tie off and re-installed the tie if no sale.
The gun shop I worked P/T finally used plastic ties to keep the actions lock. If a "Real" customer requested we cut the plastic tie off and re-installed the tie if no sale.
OP
Here's a few more pics close up. I'm not a good photographer so this will have to do. I don't understand the blueing lose in the cylinder flutes. That isn't where I would expect any wear. Stamps seem to be very clear. Thanks.
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