I was planning on using a Heavy Duty Cylinder, but unfortunately the one advertised wasn't. So I am wondering would a Model 27 or 28 work has anyone done this. If so any issues other than getting the timing right?
Using A Mod 27 or 28 Cylinder In A 1917 frame
- Thread starter merl67
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What barrel are you using? If it is a pre-war one, you will have a cosmetic issue because 27's and 28's have left hand ejector rod threads and the ones for 1917's are right hand. You won't be able to use the "mushroom" style original ejector rod.
Second, most 27's and 28's have recessed cylinders so they are longer. The cylinder lug on the frame will have to be relieved.
It's doable, but it's not a drop-in.
Second, most 27's and 28's have recessed cylinders so they are longer. The cylinder lug on the frame will have to be relieved.
It's doable, but it's not a drop-in.
OP
Got ya I have a Heavy Duty barrel. I know I will have to take some off the breach end of the barrel to get the B/C gap correct. Just trying to cover the bases before ordering one only to find out no way to make it work. I have done two model 10 barrel and cylinder swaps, but obviously this is different.
Engine49guy
Member
Actually the Model 27 and 28 had right hand thread ejector rods, the 27-1 and 28-1 and newer had left hand threads.
Also, the 38-44 HD and OD cylinder will be the same length at the front as the 357 cylinder, and although the recessed .357 cylinders are longer at the rear that extra length doesn't make a difference in the frame window as the case head is in the exact same spot.
As for the different ejector rod shape if you use the newer style with a knurled end it should lock up without any interference.
The issue will be fitting the yoke arm, barrel forcing cone gap and of course fitting the hand to the cylinder and getting it in time.
Also, the 38-44 HD and OD cylinder will be the same length at the front as the 357 cylinder, and although the recessed .357 cylinders are longer at the rear that extra length doesn't make a difference in the frame window as the case head is in the exact same spot.
As for the different ejector rod shape if you use the newer style with a knurled end it should lock up without any interference.
The issue will be fitting the yoke arm, barrel forcing cone gap and of course fitting the hand to the cylinder and getting it in time.
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I have a model 28 cylinder that I reamed to 45 colt in a 1917 frame. Clearance the frame lug for the recesses. You almost always have some minor fitting with yoke tube being a bit long or short. Occasional a timing problem when fitting a cylinder to a frame. Your other option is to simply turn the back of the 28 cylinder and ejector off to remove the recesses, use an old ejector rod modified with a washer to hold the extractor in place. I have a couple I use to hold ejectors in place when reaming cylinder chambers
Engine49guy
Member
You said you were using a 1917 N frame with a 38-44 HD barrel and a 357 cylinder,
What caliber will this project be in the end ?
On a side note if you do not want recessed chambers another way to go is to look for a 27/28 cylinder that is dash 3 or up as the recessed chamber was deleted .
What caliber will this project be in the end ?
On a side note if you do not want recessed chambers another way to go is to look for a 27/28 cylinder that is dash 3 or up as the recessed chamber was deleted .
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OP
Nothing fancy just 38spl with occasionally shooting 357 mags in it.
Engine49guy
Member
The 38-44 and recessed or non recessed 28/27 cylinders should all work.
The recessed cylinder is only longer to add enough metal that is then countersunk to compensate for the case head recess ,
The recessed 357 cylinder has a much smaller gap to the blast shield but the case heads are in exactly the same location for the firing pin ( hammer nose) strike.
The cylinder star is also in the same exact location.
On a side note this goes for the .44 special vs 44 magnum cylinders as well but only at the rear as 44 magnum cylinders are usually longer at the front ( like the Model 19 vs model 10) which means shorter forcing cone protrusion into the frame where the 38-44 and 357 have the same forcing cone protrusion into the frame ( which btw IIRC is the same as the 44 special).
The recessed cylinder is only longer to add enough metal that is then countersunk to compensate for the case head recess ,
The recessed 357 cylinder has a much smaller gap to the blast shield but the case heads are in exactly the same location for the firing pin ( hammer nose) strike.
The cylinder star is also in the same exact location.
On a side note this goes for the .44 special vs 44 magnum cylinders as well but only at the rear as 44 magnum cylinders are usually longer at the front ( like the Model 19 vs model 10) which means shorter forcing cone protrusion into the frame where the 38-44 and 357 have the same forcing cone protrusion into the frame ( which btw IIRC is the same as the 44 special).
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OP
Thanks ya'll for vhf the info now have a starting place to look for. A pre model number up to dash 2 will be what I search for.
Engine49guy
Member
To be clear,
The dash 1 revision changed the ejector rod thread from right hand thread to left hand thread.
If you're looking for a right hand thread cylinder it has to be a Model marked 27/28 no dash or pre model.
The dash 2 revision eliminated the trigger guard screw.
The dash 1 revision changed the ejector rod thread from right hand thread to left hand thread.
If you're looking for a right hand thread cylinder it has to be a Model marked 27/28 no dash or pre model.
The dash 2 revision eliminated the trigger guard screw.
OP
Got ya. Since I probably can use a straight ejector rod (without large head) it probably really doesn't matter which change I use obviously I'd like an older one, but condition, and price are going to be the main factor in choice not engineering change, but I do think I want one with recessed chambers.
OP
Got the cylinder last week. We were gone to the mountains this week, I already had the barrel fitted to the frame. Got in this afternoon started fitting the cylinder to my yoke and the gun had to take just a bit off the ring at the end of the cylinder to get the proper clearance once I did timing was remarkably dead on with very little play either way. The barrel to cylinder gap averages around six thousand which I think is pretty good for a table gunsmithing job. I will have to fabricate a front locking pin as the one in the original barrel is too short, and none could be found online. I will find an appropriate sized piece of drill rod from my broken bit stash. I did try six rounds of standard 38spl 4 made a nice group well centered 2 were shooter error. All in all very happy so far.
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