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vacuum sealing for long term storage???
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elpac3
Member
gun or the ammo?
For long term gun storage I would go with something like the Blueguard VCI storage bag.
For long term gun storage I would go with something like the Blueguard VCI storage bag.
It seems to work like gangbusters....
It seems to work like gangbusters for metal parts, so with proper care at sealing, maybe with a small desiccant bag, and you can look and see if it's ok w/o unsealing it.
It seems to work like gangbusters for metal parts, so with proper care at sealing, maybe with a small desiccant bag, and you can look and see if it's ok w/o unsealing it.
Lightly coat with Rig and store in a dry location. Ammo can, factory box or similar container.
oneounceload
Member
New plastic versions can do an even better job, IMO. No rust issues and no potential bomb issues if caught in a house fire.
You might want to rethink that. I thought so too until I saw this:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqIUPAj4PbU"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqIUPAj4PbU[/ame]
I disagree.
We took 4 feet of water in our walk in basement during hurricane Irene, and I only lost a few boxes of ammunition that were stored in one GI can that was missing a hinge pin, which in turn prevented a perfect seal. The other 20 or so cans were just fine, and they were one of the last things we bothered cleaning up.
You have to store them in very wet conditions for a long period of time for rust on the outside to ever be an issue, and if you have moisture on the inside, you have far bigger issues.
Plastic can be as effective as steel, but it is bulkier and just as heavy or heavier as it requires a much thicker case for a comparable level of strength and impact resistance. Also, when it comes to impacts, you'll dent or bend a steel ammo can and still have a useful can in situations where you'd just have a broken plastic case.
So when we are talking about effective plastic ammo cans, we are talking about heavy plastic like that used in Pelican cases, etc.
Even when purchased surplus, good quality plastic cases are more expensive. For example a few weeks ago I bought four .50 caliber cans at $5.00 each. Admittedly, that's a good price as $7 to $10 each is more the norm. In contrast at that same show I bought similar sized surplus Pelican cases for $15 each, which was a phenomenal price for them.
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As for the "bomb" issues, that's just hyberole.
Yes, plastic will probably melt before the contents start to burn. However, a steel ammo can isn't going to contain enough pressure to create a bomb after the ammunition inside starts to cook off.
After all, militaries all over the world have been using steel ammo cans since before WWII, and an enormous number of them have burned over the years without being a problem.
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Edit:
As noted in the video above, the cans he's talking about in the video are not good enough quality to protect against anything but splash, spray, and maybe a good heavy rain. They are not designed for or intended for immersion in water.
I will add that I had a video camera in a Storm Case that washed out of our basement during Irene. It was found under someone's dock across the sound about 3 months later by a contractor rebuilding the dock. The case was dry inside despite setting sail in a hurricane and then being submerged under the remains of a dock for 3 months. Would I store ammo in it with confidence? Absolutely, but they are not cheap to buy compared to GI ammo cans.
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This guy might not be the sharpest tool in the shed. You can perform that same test with something non perishable or inexpensive. A hand full of nails along with some rocks for weight to hold it down will work just as well as several boxes of ammo for test purposes.
ontargetagain
Member
If using a vacuum seal plastic material I would be cautious of any transfer from the plastic as in contamination. The sealed bag would do its job keeping out moisture but the plastic bag making contact with metal and wood parts may have its own issues.
I think' elpac3' has pointed you in the correct direction if you were to use a vacuum bag method
Karl
I think' elpac3' has pointed you in the correct direction if you were to use a vacuum bag method
Karl
Double-O-Dave
US Veteran
I was wondering why he was struggling with breaking the wired seal on the ammo can when there are wire cutters at the base of the jaws of his Leatherman tool.
Regards,
Dave
Well ya......... no need to 'risk" good ammo in that test.....
BB57 Great minds think alike!!!!!
It doesn't hurt for ammo. You should be aware though that non-corrosive primers will start to go bad in 30-40 years or so, maybe a bit longer. Corrosive primers last longer in storage. I guess it depends what you call long-term.
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The US Military has about the highest spec's, testing regime, and qualifications of anybody or any agency I know of. Basically the steel GI ammo cans the Military have been using all these years has remained unchanged and the simply fact is BECAUSE they work so well.
To me, if it's good enough for the US Military it's good enough for anyone!
I never buy the Chinese made steel copies or the plastic ones for that mater either. Genuine Steel US Military cans are readily available and in the long run are really the best & very reasonable to buy.
To me, if it's good enough for the US Military it's good enough for anyone!
I never buy the Chinese made steel copies or the plastic ones for that mater either. Genuine Steel US Military cans are readily available and in the long run are really the best & very reasonable to buy.
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MichiganScott
Member
I've got a couple of cases of non-corrosive FA50 M2 Ball that shoots just fine. It has the zinc plated primers of test ammunition when the military was planning on switching over to all non-corrosive. Guess that's a bit longer that 30-40 years.
Really? I'm still shooting 30/06 from WWII. And 7.62x39 from Lord knows when......I have ammunition in my collection from pre WWII and it will still go bang. So you primer theory doesn't wash. Ammunition stored dry and relatively cool will last almost forever.
There are chemical sprays on the market (one is system to preserve leftover paint) that are heavy inert gases, that are used to spray into cans of paints and other chemicals that displaces the air and moisture by forcing it out of the top of the can. I do not see why if you are going to seal ammo and guns in a GI Ammo with a good seal, that by spraying this into the can you will displace the air/oxygen and eliminate any change of moisture damage.
I am surprised that your WWII 30-06 has non-corrosive priming. Also a lot of the unknown origin 7.62X39 is corrosive. Also, as far as I know, it isn't like an on-off switch. It is more of a gradual deterioration resulting in unreliable ignition. I have fired ammo older than me (65) and it shot fine. I have also shot ammo 50 years old that had very erratic ignition.
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