Value of S&W 1917 Army version

[Dreamweaver52]

I have a 1917 Army version.

I inherited this pistol along with several others and have spent some time learning what each pistol is to the best of my ability.

I want to sell this pistol so am trying to get an approximate value, retail/wholesale, I realize it's difficult to tell and my pictures aren't the best but any guidance would be appreciated.

It is serial number 22xxx, Overall the pistol retains maybe only 10% of original bluing but all the surfaces are free from any real noticeable damage. A gun store guy says it locks uptight. Bore looks good but dirty. I've had this in a storage trunk since about 1975, my Uncle owned it before that maybe since the 20's, don't know. The grips are not original, I believe they are mother of pearl.
Any semi-informed guesses?

 

[gjamison]

Selling it as is, I'm thinking $350 to $400.

 

[deyomatic]

I haven't seen a US Army version for less than $700 on Gunbroker, and I looked for a long time. Without the original stocks and with the bluing loss, maybe $100 or so less. The Brazilian ones are getting up there, now, too. Please sell it here first.

 

[i1afli]

Looks to be in pretty good original shape, with the exception of the grips...I'd say $600 - $700.

 

[Jack Flash]

That one shipped in February, 1918. Per this website:
U.S. Military Dates of Manufacture

A lot of variables like the dirty bore. Is it just dirty or is it pitted? Ammunition was corrosive back in 1917 (and well after!). How do the chambers look? If the grips are removed, is there evidence of corrosion?

From what I can tell from the pictures, it looks pretty nice. I would be surprised if it did not bring $700, depending of course on pitting and other variables mentioned above.

 

[Nightowl]

I once looked at a very nice 1917 in a gun shop for a very reasonable price. When I checked the cylinder, there were craters in every chamber, I mean I have never seen such damage in a cylinder before.
So, the dirty barrel may be hiding some pretty bad stuff, and it might be the chambers too.

 

[g8rb8]

.... $350 to $400.

..... I would be surprised if it did not bring $700

You really don't know the value until you sell it. I think both gjamison and Jack Flash are correct. Selling it locally to an individual or to a LGS (local gun store) and you might get closer to what gjamison suggests. List is on gunbroker and you might get closer to what Jack Flash estimates. A good photo of the right side of the gun might give a better idea if it's been refinished which would lower the value. Better photos might suggest it's in better shape than suggested by your first photo thus likely elevating the value.

 

[reddog81]

Like g8rb8 says the prices on these can vary widely. Even on gunbroker the difference between 2 identical guns - one with a few bad pics and another with many good pics and a good description can be $200 even if the guns are identical.

It also depends on how quickly you want to sell it. For $400 you could probably sell it in 1 day. If you want $700 for if you might have to wait a month or more..

There is a sales section on this website. if your price is reasonable many guns will sell in a day or 2.

 

[reddog81]

And don't be surprised if the local gun store offers you $.60 on the dollar. They are in business to make a profit and rarely pay more than $.75 on the dollar.

 

[jmace57]

It looks really heavily polished to me with the stampings on the barrel almost gone, and the Flaming Bomb on the left side of the frame pretty much gone. (All this subject to what I can see in the picture)

 

[Jack Flash]

It looks really heavily polished to me with the stampings on the barrel almost gone, and the Flaming Bomb on the left side of the frame pretty much gone. (All this subject to what I can see in the picture)

I am seeing the same thing when I blow up the picture. Strangely, all the pins look like they have NOT been polished flat.

So I would have to see more pictures or examine it first hand before making any more guesses at what it will sell for.

 

[Dreamweaver52]

Thanks for the help guys, knew I came to the right place.

Would it hurt its value if I cleaned the bore and cylinders?

Would I increase the value vs the money spent by trying to find the correct stocks, of course they wouldn't be original to the pistol. Would a holster increased the value by much? I may have the one it came with. Do they have identifying serial numbers also? I also have some what look to be real old ammo for this, some lead some jacketed and some moon clips.

I'll try and get some more in depth photos and post them in the next few days.

 

[g8rb8]

You will NOT hurt the value by appropriately cleaning the bore and chambers. You would likely help the value.

A proper set of grips would probably help sell it faster and for a few more dollars. I have not priced the original smooth walnut stocks but have seen other S&W members mentions they are "not cheap." My recollection is that the original stocks/grips were serial number matched to the revolver by penciled numbers on the right stock. More experience members can refute or support my guess. The cost of the grips might possibly be offset by a higher selling price. On the other side of the argument, if there's a good story or some history as to why the current grips are on the revolver some would say to keep the current grips and others would say why bother with the time and expense of looking for new stocks/grips if you're selling it. If I was selling I would probably not go to the effort and expense to find replacements stocks.

If you sell it on-line really good pictures with props like ammo, holster, lanyard, moon clips, and ammo pouch would likely help it sell faster and/or for a better price and it you already have them then good for you but if not then is it worth the effort to find these things (?). I doubt it.

Post better pictures and we can help give you better advice.

 

[Jack Flash]

Thanks for the help guys, knew I came to the right place.

Would it hurt its value if I cleaned the bore and cylinders?

Would I increase the value vs the money spent by trying to find the correct stocks, of course they wouldn't be original to the pistol. Would a holster increased the value by much? I may have the one it came with. Do they have identifying serial numbers also? I also have some what look to be real old ammo for this, some lead some jacketed and some moon clips.

I'll try and get some more in depth photos and post them in the next few days.

Cleaning it carefully would help. If you don't, any prospective buyer would do it himself before making the purchase. Or he would want to pay a much lower price.

Correct stocks would be hard to find and expensive. They would increase the selling price but possibly not enough to recoup your cost, especially if you count your time as worth something.

The holster would add a lot to the value of the package, or you could sell it separately. Of course, it is about 100 years old so condition may be an issue. If it is in superb condition, Katie bar the door! I don't think the holster would have been issued with a serial number matching the revolver.

People love old ammo. And old ammo boxes. Again, it would enhance the value of the package or could be sold separately.

 

[deyomatic]

I got a set of reproductions from Numrich (I think) for around $50. Mine are not the type that have the little area at the top of the stock flattened...mine are rounded off. Not sure which style yours should have. If that makes no sense, someone can likely post a photo of what yours would look like.
If you do get replacement walnut stocks, including the pearl stocks with the sale may sweeten the pot, too.

 

[Dreamweaver52]

I took some additional pictures, hopefully they show things in better detail. I don't know if the holster is correct for a 1917, looks like its been highly modified. Do the grips look like MoP?

One detail of note is the "S" + a number over the serial number under the barrel and inside the frame, what does that indicate?

I ran some Ballistol and cotton patches through the bore and the cylinder, I think they look pretty good, would probably clean up even better if I used a bore brush but I only have one for my AR.

The more I learn, the more I'm leaning towards keeping this and making some sort of display case....but I would like to fund a new CCW pistol ...maybe if I sell the Model 1 1/2 and I do have a Webley 1917 I'm probably going to sell also....decisions decisions.

Well here's the pics, educate me and maybe a better guesstimate on a value.

 

[jmace57]

I withdraw my earlier comments after seeing the new pictures. Other than the missing bluing, it is looking pretty good. Those look like Auto Rim (.45 AR) cartridges in the top two pictures.

Barrel number S/N matches frame. I believe that "S" number is an inventory number or rack number someone added later.

In my opinion, it is a $500-$600 gun without any accessories.

 

[JSR III]

Welcome to the forum

The finish is mostly non existent however, the metal does not look all that bad especially in the barrel and chambers. It does not appear to be pitted badly at all.

I would think that as a package, you probably have something in the area of $700- $800. Having the holster, ammo and moon clips adds to the flavor of the set. In pristine condition you would probably see over $1,000 on an auction and a little less in a private sale.

That should be an excellent shooter and where can you find a S&W N frame for much less than $500-$600 unless it's a rat.

The S number stamped in the barrel flat appears to be the assembly number from the yoke area stamped under the barrel with an added S. Not sure why that was done or who might have done it. Since the barrel and butt have the original serial number, not sure why someone felt it necessary to add the assembly number.

Many times these parts were mixed up during trips to the Military or Law Enforcement armorers during rehab.

All in all you have an interesting package especially if they came down through your family together. Once sold, you can never get family history back.

 

[deyomatic]

Those pics look nice. If I had not just picked one up, and this were for sale at $800, I'd be all over it. It still has the United States Property stamp, which a lot of people removed through the years, as well as the GHS inspector stamp.
I know nothing of rarity, but if you are going to shoot it, keep this one because of the availability of .45 ACP. The Webley is probably tougher to keep fed.
BTW, THAT ammo is worth more as collector ammo than for shooting. If you shoot it, get some new ammo for it.

 

[Jack Flash]

I don't think it's been refinished. It looks more like someone went overboard cleaning it and compromised some of the markings.

The overall condition of the gun looks good to me, with some minor pitting in the barrel. Someone really mangled the rear-most sideplate screw. The others look ok to excellent. I would rate it as a desirable handgun, probably more of a shooter than a collector's piece. Gun only price could be as much as $800, but that may be a stretch.

BOYT 44: This holster was obviously made for the war effort, but WWII, not WWI. It has had the flap cut down, which didn't do its collector value any favors. My guess is that it's worth $20 to $40 just as a holster that works. The belt slides with cartridge loops look commercial to me. My guess is that they are worth a few bucks each.

Ammunition Headstamps:
WRA .45 A.R. ... Winchester Repeating Arms .45 Auto Rim
Those may be reloads. If original they may be worth something. Either way, I would not shoot them. A cartridge collector could tell you more.
SPEER 45 AUTO ... Speer .45 ACP
Speer makes components and (I think) loaded ammo too. Either way, someone beat you to shooting them. Fired cases worth a couple of cents each. A lot of the other fired cases look so corroded that they are probably just scrap.
ECS 42 ... Evansville Chrysler Sunbeam 1942
ECS 43 ... Evansville Chrysler Sunbeam 1943
I couldn't remember seeing this headstamp before so I had to look it up. Obviously, everyone got involved in the war effort in WWII. Apparently even Chrysler manufactured ammunition. My reference says headstamps should be 43 or 44 so the one that is marked 42 may be rare. Again, don't shoot it and seek the advice of a cartridge collector.

A very nice group. Did your uncle serve in WWII? Seems like all the non-gun extras are post-WWI. Personally, I would keep the group in the family if at all possible.