Very happy with M&P R8

David Sinko said:
How do you blow out the side of a primer? The only way I can see this happening is with a very high primer and I think at that point you'd realize how high it is when the cylinder doesn't close properly.
Click to expand...

It blew out on the edge (right where the cup curves), not the side. Just a tiny pinhole, but enough to flame cut the bushing. I posted a thread about (with photos) it in the Gunsmithing forum. Not sure exactly how it happened--it was either just a bad/thin/weak primer cup, worn out brass, or I did something stupid such as crushing the primer when seating it.
 
I wanted to ask if this was a systemic problem with the R8, or was it just yours that had this problem?
 
Walker45 said:
I wanted to ask if this was a systemic problem with the R8, or was it just yours that had this problem?
Click to expand...

Just mine and I'm sure it was due to my reloads and had nothing to do with the gun. S&W still fixed it under warranty.
 
I see, thanks that helps a lot. I am running a pole in another thread about which should be my next purchase between the 3 M&P models R8, 340 and the 342. Surprisingly the R8 has a slight lead over the 342, I thought for sure it would go R8, 340 and then the 342.

Thanks again for your insight.
 
R8 light primer strikes

I have had an R8 for about a year. 300+ flawless rounds through it and I would echo all said in the positive that I have seen in this forum.

However, just cracked a new box of Remington 38 ammo and had multiple light primer strikes. Out of 25 rounds, 5 light strikes. An 8 shot attempt would have 6 in a row as advertised then 2 light strikes in a row. Different every time but confusing. There is a significant difference in the dimple on good rounds from the light rounds.

If it is not the ammo- which I am also investigating- has anyone had similar trouble, and what was the course of action that fixed it?

Many thanks.
 
David Sinko said:
I see the two piece barrel arrangement isn't all it's cracked up to be, no pun intended. I hope this shortcut was worth it to S&W.

Is it possible to buy an R8 and fit a normal one piece barrel?

Dave Sinko
Click to expand...

Dave, you won't find a one piece barrel as accurate as the tensioned barrels. If you don't believe that, do some reading up on the accuracy of Dan Wesson revolvers.

As for it being a cost cutting device, I've worked in manufacturing since 1980 and when you factor in the increased inspection and quality procedures required for producing each part, making barrels in a 2 piece configuration will be cost NEGATIVE in comparison to a 1 piece barrel. I suspect that's one reason why the 620 has been dropped, the payoff that S&W expected just wasn't there when they added up all of the additional costs involved in making 2 seperate parts.

Lets be honest, you don't like it because it's different. No problem there, as another Old Fart there are a lot of things I don't like because they are different. One being Airbags. If you wear a seatbelt, Airbags are pretty redundant. Personally, I think that if cars were percieved as being a bit less safe we'd see much more attentive drivers on the streets. My first car was an old air cooled Beetle and that car would NEVER pass today's crash standards. However, I not only survived, I actually enjoyed driving it.

Now one thing I can tell you is that the 2 piece barrels provide a distinct improvement in accuracy. Buried in it's test archives Guns and Ammo has a test report on the M&P R8 in which they tested it at 50 yards from a rest. With a cold barrel that gun produced a 1.08 inch group.

Name me ONE single S&W revolver that accurate that uses a factory one piece barrel. You won't be able to do it or provide any independent test reports that support this. About the best you can do with the current 1 piece barrels on the 686 is around 2 inches at 25 yards. In addition, the one piece barrels are VERY sensitive to having anything in contact with the barrel when the gun is fired, which means you'll degrade the accuracy by using a barrel rest. However, with a 2 piece barrel you can rest that barrel on a sandbag and see a distinct improvement in accuracy because resting the barrel provides a more stable platform.

BTW, I do a bit of bench rest shooting with my revolvers. It's a real challenge and a great way to improve release skills. My preferred distance for bench shooting is 35 yards, an oddball distance because it's the longest distance at which I can see the red bull on an 8 inch shoot-n-c. I'll also note that I am now shooting with J Point reflex sights, my eyes no longer can focus on handgun sights unless I shoot from a "blade" stance. My model 610 has a good reputation for being an accurate gun and at 35 yards my very best effort to date is one single 2 1/2 inch group, generally it ranges between 3 and 4 inches. I've also experimented with resting the barrel on the 610 and doing that just about doubles the group size, IMO resting the barrel interferes with the barrel "ringing" true. With my 620, that uses a 2 piece barrel, I've managed a 1 3/4 inch group at 35 yards by sandbagging the barrel and if I had a scope I have no doubt I could cut that grouping in half.

To be blunt, IMO the now discontinued 620 may prove to be the single most accurate 357 Magnum that S&W has ever produced and the Scadium frame 327's are probably a close second. One of these days I may just mount a scope on the 620 just to see what it can do when set up properly for precision long range shooting. With a bit of load tuning, I think it has the potential for 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards. As much as you dislike the 2 piece barrels, they do provide accuracy that can approach a carbine rifle and they do it without the abomination of mounting a 1 1/2 or 2 inch diameter bull barrel as was once done to achieve this level of accuracy from a revolver.
 
Well, I pulled the trigger and I am in the process of buying a few S&W revolvers. The M&P R8, TRR 325 and a M&P 340 are on layaway, with much anticipation. I really am excited about the R8, simply because of your positive reviews. These are my first revolvers and I am sure I will have questions. Until then and I get these out layaway I appreciate your information.

Thanks again...
 
SN

I got lucky enough to acquire SN CNU2000. Beauty on the first few hundred rounds so far.....

....anyone want to make an offer on such a rare serial number? :D
 
I just brought one home from my LGS. After I popped the sideplate to take a look see and clean/lube it (it's a Marine thing), I came away impressed.

I also have a 325TRR that I like, so the new-fangled "UnObtainium" framed revolvers are okay. I do like the P&R'd guns most, however (I have a 19-3 and 66 no dash).

One thing that strikes me is the all-business aura of the R8. I mounted a Hogue N-Frame R/B Monogrip with a Hamilton Bowen screw-in lanyard ring (it takes the place of the grip screw) that was Gray Armor-Tuff'd by Wilson Combat. It adds to the all-business look and adds utility.

I like the gun VERY much and am anxious to run some Magnums through her. I did find that when I pulled her apart, that her insides were drier that a popcorn fart. There was NO lubrication on her guts whatsoever.

She will be smoothed up in the coming weeks by my gunsmith. After she comes back, I will send the trigger off to Mag-Na-Port to have their Combat Trigger modification done. After I get the trigger back, the trigger, hammer and rebound slide will be NP3 Plus'd by the good folks at ROBAR in The Valley of the Sun.

Next, her front sight will be sent off to Tool Tech in Michigan to get a Trijicon Tritium vial installed. After that, I think she'll qualify to be a "fighting revolver".

The 5-inch tube is hard to adjust to. I normally go for 3 and 4-inch tubes. I'm confident that she'll be accurate. I thought I read that the barrels (not the shrouds) are made by Walther. I do like the muzzle-heavy feel. It points well.

As for feeding her, I may use the full moons, but most of my shooting will involve the 5-Star speedloaders. The cost is high (@$25-$27/ea), but not nearly as high as the ones that Clint Smith advertises on his website ($65/ea). I've heard some decent reports about the 5-Star loaders. As a lifelong HKS/Safariland user, their reverse release will take some getting used to. I think the speedloader is the easier way to go, rather than fumbling with the wiggly rounds. They don't load as fast as their .45 ACP cousins.

My intent for this revolver is to be a duty gun, should I get back into LE work. As for a duty holster, Shelley Brown at Ted Blocker can make up her excellent SP202 revolver holster for me (with extra welt rivets). They can make up almost any holster for any gun.

For a utility/range holster, I want the steel and leather Ted Blocker Thunder ($125), but 'Mama Bear' would be angry. I opted for the less-expensive Safariland 567 for the 5-inch S&W N-Frame ($45). I use their 568 belt loop for a custom fit on my Mitch Rosen belts. Wilson Combat also sells the same belt loop, albeit in thick cowhide/kydex, vice the Safari-Laminate. The 567 Adjust-A-Fit holster is a cheaper alternative than the Ted Blocker/Alessi/Sidearmor, Blade-Tech or Simply Rugged models.

If there's any misfires (due to it being Kalifornia-Kompliant), I will get the Apex firing pin kit, as I hear they're better than the C&S pins. Not sure, but the 3 C&S pins I've installed in my late-model Smiths have been decent.

Last thing: Not sure if anybody else does it, but any new (or new to me) firearm that I get, now gets a rub-down with FLITZ. I use either the paste (silver tube) or the liquid (black bottle at any auto parts store). FLITZ is AWESOME. It removes corrosion (yes there's some) on blued (and stainless too!) guns. On the Scandium and painted guns (325TRR and R8), FLITZ removes any surface impurities and imbues the surfaces with a nice baby-soft finish. It's safe on firearms finishes.
 
Last edited:
scooter123 said:
Dave, you won't find a one piece barrel as accurate as the tensioned barrels. If you don't believe that, do some reading up on the accuracy of Dan Wesson revolvers.

As for it being a cost cutting device, I've worked in manufacturing since 1980 and when you factor in the increased inspection and quality procedures required for producing each part, making barrels in a 2 piece configuration will be cost NEGATIVE in comparison to a 1 piece barrel. I suspect that's one reason why the 620 has been dropped, the payoff that S&W expected just wasn't there when they added up all of the additional costs involved in making 2 seperate parts.

Lets be honest, you don't like it because it's different. No problem there, as another Old Fart there are a lot of things I don't like because they are different. One being Airbags. If you wear a seatbelt, Airbags are pretty redundant. Personally, I think that if cars were percieved as being a bit less safe we'd see much more attentive drivers on the streets. My first car was an old air cooled Beetle and that car would NEVER pass today's crash standards. However, I not only survived, I actually enjoyed driving it.

Now one thing I can tell you is that the 2 piece barrels provide a distinct improvement in accuracy. Buried in it's test archives Guns and Ammo has a test report on the M&P R8 in which they tested it at 50 yards from a rest. With a cold barrel that gun produced a 1.08 inch group.

Name me ONE single S&W revolver that accurate that uses a factory one piece barrel. You won't be able to do it or provide any independent test reports that support this. About the best you can do with the current 1 piece barrels on the 686 is around 2 inches at 25 yards. In addition, the one piece barrels are VERY sensitive to having anything in contact with the barrel when the gun is fired, which means you'll degrade the accuracy by using a barrel rest. However, with a 2 piece barrel you can rest that barrel on a sandbag and see a distinct improvement in accuracy because resting the barrel provides a more stable platform.

BTW, I do a bit of bench rest shooting with my revolvers. It's a real challenge and a great way to improve release skills. My preferred distance for bench shooting is 35 yards, an oddball distance because it's the longest distance at which I can see the red bull on an 8 inch shoot-n-c. I'll also note that I am now shooting with J Point reflex sights, my eyes no longer can focus on handgun sights unless I shoot from a "blade" stance. My model 610 has a good reputation for being an accurate gun and at 35 yards my very best effort to date is one single 2 1/2 inch group, generally it ranges between 3 and 4 inches. I've also experimented with resting the barrel on the 610 and doing that just about doubles the group size, IMO resting the barrel interferes with the barrel "ringing" true. With my 620, that uses a 2 piece barrel, I've managed a 1 3/4 inch group at 35 yards by sandbagging the barrel and if I had a scope I have no doubt I could cut that grouping in half.

To be blunt, IMO the now discontinued 620 may prove to be the single most accurate 357 Magnum that S&W has ever produced and the Scadium frame 327's are probably a close second. One of these days I may just mount a scope on the 620 just to see what it can do when set up properly for precision long range shooting. With a bit of load tuning, I think it has the potential for 1/2 inch groups at 50 yards. As much as you dislike the 2 piece barrels, they do provide accuracy that can approach a carbine rifle and they do it without the abomination of mounting a 1 1/2 or 2 inch diameter bull barrel as was once done to achieve this level of accuracy from a revolver.
Click to expand...

Maybe the reason why they went with a two piece barrel was that the officer who was using it would probably have the barrel resting on the riot shield. Is that why?

James
 
I'm thinking this will be my next revolver. Thanks for brining this post back up. Does anyone know if the current model R8's still have a problem with the light strike?
 
I believe if I were carrying the TRR for duty use, I would consider carrying the first 8 loaded in a full moon clip. It would make for faster extraction, eliminate the possibility of a cartridge slipping under the extractor, and keep all the empties together, making it easier to extract a stuck case. My 627s do not fully extract empties, so a moon clip would make it faster to get all of them out of the chambers together. Just sayin....
 
Rich,

Thanks. I'm finding that the longer Magnums tend to hang up on the grip. I'll work on it. A lot of folks are saying that the stock S&W firing pin is made to shoot with the clips.

I will run her through her paces sometime this coming week. I will have several lots of ammo to test, both with and without the clips.

-Greg
 
RANGE VISIT

I was able to get away from the base for lunch and went to nearlby "Oceanslime" (Oceanside) to shoot the R8.

I shot about 90 rounds through it. The 125gr GDHP Magnums shot low, but were grouped in the size of a Quarter. I guess they are calibrated to 158gr bullets. I adjusted the sights to be POA/POI with the lighter bullets. Next, was the Fiocchi 125gr JHPs. Outside of the massive amount of muzzle blast, theygrouped slightly more open than the Speer Gold Dots, but are a great round, especially the price.

Next, I shot about 40 rounds of Black Hills (new) .357 158gr JHP (Barnes XTP). It was on the 2nd cylinder-full of the Black Hills that I experienced my first (and only FTF). I think it was the ammunition, as I've had FTFs with Black Hills previously. A subsequent hit from the stock firing pin lit it off fine.

After about 20 of my .357 reloads (158gr LSWHP with 14.0 grs 2400), I noticed that the cylinder wouldn't close properly. I did all of the 'revolver remedials': Check the fit of the case heads, check under the star for unburnt powder granules, check the face of the cylinder for carbon build-up (my B/C gap is .005") and finally the fit of the yoke into the frame: All GTG.

After re-inserting the rounds, it inexplicably went back into battery and shot/worked fine. Weird.

Although I shot a small number of rounds, the power of the Magnums (full power) loosened the revolver up slightly. I'll still have the gun properly opened-up and addressed with the mods I detailed earlier.

Bottom Line: I really enjoy this revolver. It's light and seems to perk along nicely. When she's "finished" she'll be an exceedingly fine combat revolver. The recoil is almost nil.

Update: I just received my new Safariland 567 Adjust-A-Fit holster for the 5-inch N Frame. Without any adjustment, the gun slide into the holster and was a perfect fit. For those who own the R8, this is your >$100 holster. Hard to argue with its utility and adjustability. It doesn't have the same "pride of ownership" as does a custom holster, however. If you get the 567, I highly recommend their 568 belt loop, or go to Wilson Combat and get the Ladies Holster Belt Loop or their leather version of the 568 belt loop.
 
How much play is there supposed to be on the barrel? I have never had a revolver where there was play between the frame and the barrel which is sleeved. Wondering if I should send it in. It is an absolute blast to shoot but do not want any malfunctions. I noticed after only 200 rounds the rail had all but unscrewed itself.
 
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