Wanting a 686 - Need advice

[radtuck]

I've been wanting a 686 (pre-lock) 2.5" revolver for a long time. The earlier pre-lock models are hard to find for a reasonable price, though. It seems like the 4" models are a little cheaper, but I don't know if that would be a good idea. I'm planning on using it for recreational shooting and possibly concealed carry. Also, how bad are the models with the internal lock? I know the ones past -4 have MIM parts, but is that a big deal? Any advice would be appreciated.
John

 

[riverrat38]

I like the MIM parts. More consistency.
And, if I had to choose, I would take a stubby with an IL over a 4 inch model without. If it bothered me, I would remove the lock and plug the hole. Or, call it a lightening hole add a few more!

Best,
Rick

 

[g27racing]

I have a few Smiths and the only part that ever broke on one of mine was a MIM part (it was on a 1911 after less than 1k rounds). While that might have been a fluke the best thing I would say is, get what you really want. The -4 or earlier snub will cost more money, but most likely will be worth more money should you ever decide to sell it. The extra money you spend on it will most likely be forgotten down the road a few months but you will always have the gun you desired to begin with. I have a 686-4 in 2.5, 4 and 6". Love all 3 of them.

 

[158Grain]

This could be argued both ways. Many don't have a problem with MIM parts or the Lock, while others won't even look at them. My smoothest revolvers are a 686-6 SSR and a newly acquired PC327 TRR8 (pics coming soon). Both have MIM parts and the Lock. I have shot older -4 revolvers with forged parts, and the trigger is definitely smoother with the MIM parts in my opinion. Regarding the Lock, I think most people are so scared of it because they read one internet forum where someone had the lock unintentionally activate. Remember that S&W manufactures a boat load of revolvers each year with the Lock. You might hear of a few cases every now and then where the Lock malfunctions, but the vast majority of them work flawlessly.

As to what gun, I think your leaving out a good option in a 3". You could go for a 686-6 3" Talo model. It would be a good concealed option, probably better for OWB, and would also be fun at the range. Another plus is the Talo models are a "+" model, meaning 7 rounds as opposed to 6. You can typically find these for around $700-$800. The ultimate 3" gun would be a CS1. Pretty rare, and expensive. If you happen to find one, please remember me.

My honest recommendation would be to find a local range where you could try a few different barrel lengths to see which fits your needs the best. Good Luck!

 

[wx7b]

Love my 3 in Plus model, it balances well and looks better

 

[Sconnie]

Regarding the Lock, I think most people are so scared of it because they read one internet forum where someone had the lock unintentionally activate.

I have to admit that I shy away from the lock on the newer Smiths. But not because I am "afraid" of anything happening. I just do not like the look of the black hole on the side of an otherwise beautiful stainless handgun. I have never seen a plugged one so I don't know if that would change my mind.

But if the lock on the side does not trouble you appearance wise go for the first one you think you can afford and never look back. The snubbys do seem to be awfully popular these days. Thank goodness I picked up my 2 1/2 inch model 66 back in the days when it was $270 out the door. Ah, those were they days!

 

[mauiblue]

I had a 2.5" barrel Model 686 Plus a few years ago with the internal lock. It was a great revolver but I couldn't deal with the recoil when shooting magnum rounds. I sold it and got a Model 638 Airweight. I've owned my Model 686 Plus with 4" barrel and internal lock for about 7 years now and I love it. I am able to shoot magnum rounds through it all day (or at least until the ammo runs out). I would think the 2.5" barrel version would be easier to conceal. Have fun and good luck.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

 

[radtuck]

Thanks for the tips, guys.

 

[lhump1961]

I agree with 158grain that the 3" is a great option. I don't have a lock revolver but not because I have avoided them...I've simply had the revolvers I want for quite some time and not really adding more at this time. I started with revolvers many years ago and have been working the autos for the last few years. I wouldn't worry about MIM or locks unless you're just dead set against 'em and if that's the case expect to pay a bit more.

 

[wildenout]

Recently sold a post lock version of this gun, and kicking myself every day...though for CC it is a BIG GUN iwb, owb isn't too bad. Wish I hadn't sold mine!

 

[one eye joe]

RADTUCK, THE MOST VERSATILE OF THE 686s IS ARGUABLY THE MOUNTAIN GUN. IT CAN BE HAD IN A -4 PRELOCK VERSION WITH THE 7 ROUND CYLINDER. WITH A 4" BARREL, IT'S A GREAT RANGE OR FIELD GUN, AND CAN BE CARRIED CONCEALED. THE PRELOCK 2 1/2" GUNS ARE A GREAT GUN ALSO, FANTASTIC FOR CONCEALED CARRY, BUT NOT SO WELL SUITED FOR RANGE OR FIELD WORK. NONE OF THESE GUNS ARE CHEAP. I HAVE ONE OF EACH, AND I LOVE THEM BOTH……
158GRAIN'S SUGGESTION OF A 3" IS EXCELLENT. OF COURSE THE HOLY GRAIL WOULD BE THE 3" C-1, MANUFACTURED FOR THE CUSTOMS SERVICE TO EXACTING SPECS. IT WOULD BE A GREAT ALL AROUND GUN, GIVING UP A LITTLE VELOCITY, AND 1 ROUND OF CAPACITY TO THE MOUNTAIN GUN. IT WOULD BE THE SCARCEST AND THE MOST EXPENSIVE OF THE 3 VERSIONS I MENTIONED. COINCIDENTALLY, A 4" VERSION RECENTLY SOLD ON GUNBROKER, AND A 3" MODEL IS UP FOR SALE CURRENTLY. IF I WASN'T AN OLD GEEZER, WITH TOO MANY 686s ALREADY TO JUSTIFY BUYING ANOTHER, I WOULD BE BIDDNG ON THIS ONE. HERE IS THE LINK. WHICHEVER 686 YOU DECIDE ON, YOU WILL LOVE IT…..
RARE Smith & Wesson 686 CS-1 3" US Customs Service : Revolvers at GunBroker.com
AS AN AFTERTHOUGHT, I FELT THAT I SHOULD POST SOME PICS. WE ALL LOVE PICS. THE FIRST IS A ROW OF MOUNTAIN GUNS--THE 686 IS ON THE EXTREME RIGHT. THE SECOND IS 2 686s--AN 8 3/8" VERSION (THAT SHOOTS LIKE A RIFLE), AND MY 2 1/2 ". IT CAME WITH A NICE SET OF S&W COMBATS, WHICH I SOLD OFF. THEY JUST DON'T FIT MY HAND. IT WAS IN PACMAYRS UNTIL I COULD ACQUIRE WHAT IT IS WEARING NOW. THE LAST 2 PICS ARE OF THAT SNUBBY WEARING MAGNA PC GRIPS WITH A TYLER-T ADAPTER--EXCELLENT CONTROL, AND VERY CONCEALABLE. I HAD S&W CONVERT THIS NO-DASH GUN INTO A 7 SHOT, WHEN I SENT IT IN FOR THE RECALL AND "M" STAMP, ON THEIR DIME. THE LONG ONE IS A NO DASH ALSO. I DIDN'T BOTHER WITH THE RECALL MODS ON THAT ONE, AS IT WONT BE USED FOR SD OR HD……..……….

 

[at_liberty]

Ask the short barrel owners if they shoot full power 357 Magnums in their guns. Bigger is better with that caliber. The snubs are overkill for falling back to 38 Special.

 

[one eye joe]

PERSONALLY, I SEE NO NEED TO RESORT TO .357 MAGNUM LOADS AGAINST SD OR HD TARGETS. THOSE TYPE OF ASSAILANTS ARE RARELY WEARING BODY ARMOR--NOT EXPECTING ARMED RESISTANCE. I LOAD UP MY 2 1/2 " 686 AND MY 642 WITH SPEER, GOLD DOT JHP, .38 SPL+P, DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY FOR SHORT BARRELS, WITH LOW FLASH POWDER. TONS OF BAD GUYS HAVE BEEN PUT TO REST WITH THE ORDINARY .38 SPL LOAD THROUGH THE YEARS. I HAVE CONFIDENCE THAT THE SPEER .38 SPL +P WILL EXPAND RELIABLY, AND GET THE JOB DONE…..

 

[radtuck]

Awesome comments, guys. I reload for my .44, so I planned on getting set up for the 357 as well. I like shooting the magnum rounds out of my .44 rifle, but load light for the handgun. I would likely do the same for the 357, but do like the thump on occasion. I might consider a 4"...although, it would need the round butt combats. I sure like the looks of those combat grips!

 

[raylan007]

I would agree with the 3" Plus Talo being the best option providing you intend on keeping it and eliminate the resale advantage of a no lock. I just saw on close at a GB auction for $740 from a site I feel is one of the best for their inventory of new Smith's, their name is Sportsman's Supply and I have purchased from them a few times and they are great to deal with. One thing to consider with a new S&W is that you will always know it's history and after looking for a 686 and trying to consider as you are I.L. vs pre I.L. I went with the new gun option partially because the fanatics that feel the pre-locks are the holy grail have them marked up unrealistically. Good Luck (you can't go wrong)

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

If the 2.5", 3", and 4" are all on the table, I'd pick the 3-inch. Though you might have to pay a premium for it. Maybe $100 over a 2.5". The 4-inch is more common, should be a hair less expensive, but they still trade hands at a premium over the 6-inch.

Either way you go, you'll need a good belt holster. An all steel L-frame, in any barrel length, is still a pretty hefty chunk of metal.

Regarding MIM parts. They've been in use on S&W revolvers for 20 years now, and they're holding up well in daily use. Twenty years, they're proven. According to press releases, MIM parts are more reliable than forged parts, and by adopting MIM parts S&W significantly cut down on their rate of warranty repairs (and costs - both parts and labor).

 

[gumpys]

If the 2.5", 3", and 4" are all on the table, I'd pick the 3-inch. Though you might have to pay a premium for it. Maybe $100 over a 2.5".

Kernel you must be talking about one's with the internal lock correct? Because a 3" prelock 686 would bring hundreds if not sometimes thousand or more than a 2.5" prelock 686. Either way you can not go wrong with any 686, they are great guns and I definitely love them.

Eric

 

[Kernel Crittenden]

Maybe I don't see enough pre-lock 3-inchers sold to really know. A thousand more than a 2.5". Really? And yes, I was thinking of the newer MIM guns with locks, since the OP was kinda asking about that.

 

[gumpys]

Maybe I don't see enough pre-lock 3-inchers sold to really know. A thousand more than a 2.5". Really? And yes, I was thinking of the newer MIM guns with locks, since the OP was kinda asking about that.

Kernal, I have paid 1500 and more for nice quality 686 3" pre-locks with original box and goodies. LNIB/NIB CS-1's bring up to 2,000, I have seen performance center pre-lock 686 3" guns bring 2k or more. I have got lucky on some and paid 1200 and less but is very uncommon.

Eric

 

[rickjones]

I agree with 158Grain as well. The 686 3" Talo is excellent, smooth and balanced. I wouldnt let the MIM or lock debate stop you from buying one of those gems. I owned that very model and regret trading it.