Wax On - Wax Off

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I use Johnson Paste wax but I recently learned that they stopped making it. Glad I stocked up when Home Depot had it for around 2 bucks a can. Wax is all I use for guns and knives. Oil attracts dust, dust attracts moisture, moisture causes rust spots that look like dust spots. For knives I use a wax specifically for knives which has a beewax since it’s safe for food prep. There are a lot of companies making wax for guns these days.
 
JPW is good stuff. Did not know it was out of print. I still have most of a one pound can. That’s enough. I just looked on eBay. Lots of partial cans listed at eye-watering prices. I had no idea it was in such high demand. I may have to lock my can in the gun safe.
 
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JPW is good stuff. Did not know it was out of print. I still have most of a one pound can. That’s enough. I just looked on eBay. Lots of partial cans listed at eye-watering prices. I had no idea it was in such high demand. I may have to lock my can in the gun safe.

Bullet casters that mix their own lube are fans also
 
Back in the early ‘70s we used liquid car wax to help keep rust off our blue steel revolvers.
 
Butchers Wax is another product that is very good. No pumice in it. Many waxes are a cleaner one wax or polish and wax. That means they is a very fine abrasive in the mix to clean/polish the item. I prefer just plain wax.

Catalog

Kevin
 
It was suggested that I wax my 17-4.

I have read here in the past that most people use Renaissance Wax. Flitz also makes a gun wax.

Never done it before. Which is better? A little goes a long way?

Thanks.

Flitz is not a wax. It is a polish and, like all polishes, it is abrasive. It can be used on firearms but only sparingly and with great care not to overdo it and damage the finish. This is especially the case on blued finishes.
 
Ren Wax and JPW are two very different products.
Ren Wax, applied correctly, is thinner, dries faster, and in my
experience, bonds better and harder.

Clean the 17-4 with Naphtha on the outside, after grips are removed.
You may want to remove the cylinder/yoke first.
Don't get it into/under the ejector star and other internals.
It can be removed if you do.
Cut a small piece of micro fiber cloth, put some Ren Wax on,
and apply a very thin layer to the outside.
Wait a few minutes and wipe with a clean micro fiber cloth.
Wait ten minutes and do that again.
That might be all you need, bit if applying another layer, wait until
the following day.
Camera ready. :D

We use Ren Wax for bedding revolver grips and casting parts
for guns. Pic of adaptor for an Officer, for 8 round mags. Range use only.
 

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Here is one test for just using Ren Wax on our grips.
Doesn't darken as much, like Tung or the Tru-Oil we used,
decades ago on colored wood.
We always remove grips when cleaning after shooting.
 

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I bought some Ren Wax for my museum job. Showed a WWI French machine gun to the new museum interns. Taught them about cleaning artifacts and waxing them. They were enthusiastic. Three days, and half a jar of Ren Wax later, the French machine gun turned out to have a brass carriage, and leather wraps on the gun handles. And five years after this, no corrosion, no rust, no aging.

I bought a couple of jars for myself, and before I retired, traded the half jar left for one of my full jars. Waxed all of my clean revolvers, and still have a half jar left.
 
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