Weird question about extractor rod threads

[MajorD]

I am a life long S&W revolver guy, and know the long known information that extractor rods changed from right to left hand threads in the late 50’s or early 60’s and that supposedly the extra groove just behind the checkering on the rod was supposed to indicate left hand threads.

Strange is that I have an early 80’s 34 with the appearance of an expected left hand threaded rod as noted above, but the threads are actually right hand?

Anyone come across this before?

There is also the never say never with S&W cliche !

 

[robertrwalsh]

Did you buy it new? It is not impossible that the cylinder had been switched for some reason. I confess to being puzzled, but as you noted, never say never. Or always for that matter.

 

[shawn mccarver]

That is a disaster looking for a place to happen if someone were to use too much force in attempting to remove it.

 

[chief38]

Parts might have been replaced - who knows. Without seeing it in person it's really hard to tell. If you do remove it one day, make sure to insert 3 empties and do not Gorilla it. If it does not come lose relatively easy, try the other way. They are usually not that tight - just tight enough to stay put.

A Drill Press Chuck (NO POWER of course) turned by hand works incredibly well. Make sure to chuck E/R past knurling so it doesn't get butchered.

 

[Alk8944]

Have you removed the extractor rod? If not then how do you know the threads are right-handed?

Many people think a jacobs chuck is a good tool to remove/tighten extractor rods, but in my experience a(see sig. line!) it is a very poor choice. If the chuck slips it will severely scar the extractor rod. There are tools made for this purpose that are far safer. Far better without the tool is a piece of leather about 8 ounce or heavier, Wrap the leather around the extractor rod and clamp it firmly in your bench vise. If there is slippage this will not do any damage.

The other thing people say is to put fired cases in the charge holes! A cartridge case is not large enough to offer any real support. I have made a set of brass plugs from rod that fit tightly in the charge holes and prevent any stress on either the gib in the cylinder or the extractor pins.

Finally, I can guarantee that the extractor rod threads are left-handed if here is the smooth band behind the knurling. To have a right-handed extractor and extractor rod those parts are over 50 years old! Remember the left hand thread is loosened by turning clockwise, just like tightening a right-handed thread!

 

[MajorD]

The extractor rod loosened up while shooting, and recognized the issue. Went to screw it back in left tighty like I would expect, but it came out, did righty tighty and locked in. Bought used, gun was mint when I got it, so doubtful it was a replacement, and 3rd if it was has the indicators to suggest it would be a reverse thread part

 

[cfplinker]

IIRC the exception to the rule about the band behind the knurling is for J frames, ALL of which are left hand threaded.

 

[MajorD]

IIRC the exception to the rule about the band behind the knurling is for J frames, ALL of which are left hand threaded.

Except this odd duck apparently! The gun has one of the best J frame triggers I have ever pulled, and doesn’t suffer from the tight chamber issues seen on a lot of S&W 22’s. No biggie just check to make sure the rod is tight before and after shooting.

 

[MajorD]

I am out of town right now, and will want to confirm again when I get home.

When we say clockwise or counterclockwise to tighter or loosen are we stating this from the perspective of looking at the face ( front ) of the cylinder or the rear?

 

[JohnHL]

I am out of town right now, and will want to confirm again when I get home.

When we say clockwise or counterclockwise to tighter or loosen are we stating this from the perspective of looking at the face ( front ) of the cylinder or the rear?

Face.

John