What a difference in trigger pull

[Longwinters]

I have a 686 and a model 60 Pro. The difference in double action trigger pull is surprising. The 696 has a very reasonable trigger pull while the 60 is probably several pounds higher. Both are relatively new...bought last year.

I know different models, frames etc...but I am surprised at the difference between the two revolvers. Is this common for Smith and Wessons?

Long

 

[scooter123]

It's common for hte J frames to have a heavier trigger. As I understand it the components such as the hammer are smaller on the J frames. As a result the DA sear is acting on a shorter leverage "arm" on the hammer. Less leverage means a heavier trigger pull.

 

[Longwinters]

Appreciate the info Scooter123. Makes sense...looks like a trigger spring kit is in the future.

Detroit eh? I'm a Yooper.

Long

 

[scooter123]

Just be aware that with the J Frames everything that I've read indicates that trying to go below about 11 lbs. for the DA trigger pull will lead to misfires. Quite simply, the trigger just doesn't allow enough leverage on the hammer to get a really light DA trigger.

I'll also note that I'm not a J frame mechanic, my wrists just can't cope with the recoil of the lighter revolvers. So, I'm just relating what I've seen posted on this forum.

Personally, if I were to try and tune up a J Frame I'd start by shooting a minimum of 500 rounds with it to put some rub marks on the hammer, trigger, and frame recess. Then I would smooth the spring strut so the spring could slide on it without even a hint of snagging. Then I'd spend time smoothing the frame recess around the rebound slide so that part could move with minimal friction. Then clean up the surfaces of the rebound slide so they were smooth and install a 13 lbs. rebound spring. As for any areas on the hammer, trigger, or frame recess that showed a heavy rub, I would look into shimming the part showing a rub by about 0.002 inch so that part would run free. BTW, also look for rubs on the sideplate and address them as needed. Finally, with the hammer out of the gun install the sideplate, tighten it down, and feel the trigger for a hitch when the cylinder stop is pulled down. Just a bit of a feather touch with a stone on the tip of the trigger can get rid of that "hitch" but remember you cannot put back material you've removed. Once you've tuned all of the lockwork so that it's running as free as can be achieved you can then look into a lighter mainspring. You may find you can't get below 11 lbs. without misfires but I expect that you'll find the trigger to be smooth enough that an 11 lbs. trigger isn't that difficult to shoot with.

 

[Hondo44]

What Scooter said!!

The smaller frames are more prone to misfires with lighter springs as Scooter said.

 

[ltxi]

Just be aware that with the J Frames everything that I've read indicates that trying to go below about 11 lbs. for the DA trigger pull will lead to misfires. Quite simply, the trigger just doesn't allow enough leverage on the hammer to get a really light DA trigger.............

Completely disagree. Intelligently done, J-frames work just fine DA down to 8 - 9 pounds. A really good smith can get them below 8.

Both of my long, long time dead stone reliable carry J-frames, a 442 and a bobbed hammer 60, run between 8 and 8 1/2 pounds.

I'm currently working over my first revolver purchase in well over 10 years, an M&P 340. When I'm done, I expect it will work just like the others.

 

[K-framer]

Completely disagree. Intelligently done, J-frames work just fine DA down to 8 - 9 pounds. A really good smith can get them below 8.

Both of my long, long time dead stone reliable carry J-frames, a 442 and a bobbed hammer 60, run between 8 and 8 1/2 pounds.

I'm currently working over my first revolver purchase in well over 10 years, an M&P 340. When I'm done, I expect it will work just like the others.

Ah, but this takes a good deal of work, does it not ? (Carefully polishing out "rubs", ensuring correct geometry of the moving parts, etc). Right ? Perhaps this is beyond the kin of the average do-it-yourself gunsmith.....far more than a simple spring replacement.

I say this ONLY by way of clarification for all concerned - I am NOT disagreeing with you (I'm sure that you are quite correct, in fact).

 

[ltxi]

Oh, yeah, of course. My objection was to the part of the post I quoted that suggested you can't reliably get below 11# .....for inherent mechanical reasons.

A simple, balanced spring change on any center fire J-frame should be good to at least 10#, I would think. I've never tried just that on anything late model, though.

Can tell you that my new M&P 340 now runs consistent with my other carry J-frames....a bit over 8# and right where I want it for obvious reason....with springs, stoning, and a bit of polish a/r.

 

[tomcatt51]

My 342 is 7 1/4 lbs using a Lyman digital gauge. It fires Speer/CCI primers, the usual standard for a "hard" primer, reliably. Set up for Federal primers it will run easily at 6 lbs.

 

[GaryS]

I just used a kit from Wolff Springs on my Model 442. I replaced the 8 1/2# mainspring with an 8 #, and the 18# rebound spring with a 14#. The kit includes 13, 14, 1nd 15 # rebound springs, but someone suggested the 14# one to start.

Those changes and a small amount of lube on the internal parts made a big difference.

From all I've read on this forum and others, those changes along with putting several hundred rounds through the piece should make the DA trigger pull a lot smoother and lighter.

 

[tomcatt51]

someone suggested the 14# one to start.

Take the 13 lb spring, cut it to be the same length as the stock rebound spring and try that. Make sure the cut end goes in the rebound slide.

 

[ltxi]

Take the 13 lb spring, cut it to be the same length as the stock rebound spring and try that. Make sure the cut end goes in the rebound slide.

I'm really glad to see someone else does that. I've always cut my lighter weight J-frame rebound springs to get them to work properly/the way I want. Been a bit afraid to post that for fear of raining in flak.