What APEX trigger to buy?

[superdutyscaler]

I've had my .40 full size for a few years now, it's been a great gun EXCEPT this dam trigger! I cannot stand the hinged part and the amount of travel it takes, compared to my S&W revolvers or my SBEII or better yet ANY long fun I have the .40 trigger is horrible to me. I've barely used the gun in the past two years because of the trigger when I go to the range so I've been searching for a fix. APEX is well know for making great accessories and I'd like to buy just a trigger from them (no need for the seat seat and all that other jazz I see). So first go polymer or aluminum trigger, polymer would save me a nice amount of money. Second ever gun I own is curved trigger, so what's all the fuss about the flat trigger that makes you feel like the trigger from a 1911? I've never shot a 1911 so I could care less about a flat trigger, I feel the curved one would be more comfortable right?

 

[Asltrfl]

Spend the extra few bucks and get the regular Apex aluminum trigger, you will be glad you did. Buy once, cry once. Of get the apex plastic trigger and forever wonder if the aluminum one would have been a better choice. I've been there, done that. In two weeks, the extra $20 wont matter. But you will have the aluminum trigger for a lifetime.

 

[CB3]

The flat trigger allows you to place your finger on the trigger differently than a curved one forces you to do. It takes some getting used to but I now prefer it. Some feel it is more for range use and precision, but once you learn it, it's also good for self protection.

Aluminum has a better feel than polymer in most people's opinions.

Changing the trigger only will do nothing to shorten take up, improve the break and reset, get rid of grittiness, or adjust pull weight if any of these are your problems.

Changing to an Apex Forward Set Sear (FSS) will reduce pre-travel, improve reset, and potentially reduce pull weight if you want, depending on which springs you use. Changing to the Apex Striker Block gets rid of grittiness and gets the timing of the new sear and trigger right.

Call Apex Customer Service and tell them what you want your trigger to be like. They will sell you the right stuff and you will like the gun, a lot.

There are cheap ways to change trigger feel for the better, but none of them get you even half way to the felt improvements of a full Apex trigger kit.

Most of my Shields and Full Size 1.0's now sport the FF trigger, FSS, SB and springs to give me a wonderful, predictable, consistent 5# (or just slightly less) pull with a shorter take up, clean short break, short over travel, short reset with a tactile feel. The cost is worth it to me. I have installed them all myself. Had problems with one, but Apex got it straightened out when they put in one of their threaded gunsmith barrels. If an average Full Size 1.0 M&P is a 7/10, the Apex trigger parts take it to a 10/10.

 

[superdutyscaler]

Ok I'm sitting here dry firing the .40, I dont feel the pull I'd heavy, I dont feel its gritty either it's actually fairly nice. It's just the dang trigger, I hate how the bottom half moves so far to release the safety before the trigger itself starts to move to fire the weapon. I think if the trigger was solid like the apex at least half the travel would be removed because like I said half of it is the bottom half moving for the safely release

 

[superdutyscaler]

And I dont have the flat trigger in front of me so I can't compare the two but if its further forward than the curved one I'm not gonna like it.. I dont have huge hands but stretching more forward would bother me I think