What do you tune/modify on the revolvers you carry?

[Shorty 45 MK2]

just curious what you all change on your carry revolvers.

I have a 642 that is bone stock except for the Badger boot stocks on it and I painted the front sight red. Have thought about trying an Apex kit, but the trigger is pretty smooth and right at 10lbs.

My model 10 is slightly more modified with a DAO and bobbed hammer and right now Hogue Bantam grips, but have a set of Ahrend's retro combats on the way. I'm going to paint the front sight once I get some fluorescent paint, even thought about getting an insert for it.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[Bastogne71]

Replace the too small grips with Crimson Trace and maybe some light polishing of the rebound slide. When I carry a revolver, it's a Centennial without an exposed hammer to snag.

 

[kozmic]

If anything, just grips. I have a CT on my 442 and put Bantams on my M60. My M36 remains 100% stock. The only revolvers I carry (except in the woods) are my J frames.

 

[Helderberg]

I pulled the hammer and rebound slide out of my 638. Polished the flat surfaces and rounded the sharp edges slightly. I also installed an Apex firing pin and Pacy compact grips. On my 642 I swapped out the wood grips for the same model Pacy grip but, because it is a PC gun I did not have to touch the innards.
Frank.

 

[MJB]

I put a green HiViz sight on my LCR. That's all.

 

[federali]

Less is More

I put a single action rebound spring in my Model 65, then judiciously polished all moving surfaces. I call it a combat action job. The hammer spring remains full strength to insure positive ignition.

Whenever polishing or filing internal parts, one must try not to get to excited.

 

[jack the toad]

I pretty much do this to all my shooter revolvers, not just carry ones.
I look for roughness/burrs, wear on frame, rebound slides, pivot points, hammer/trigger, sear engagement, etc., then clean, stone, polish, lube as necessary. I've had good luck (reduced pull weights and still maintain dependable ignition) with reduced power main spring and 13# rebound.
Depending on the grips, I may swap those out. I prefer gold bead front but seldom change sights. I'm not a fan of FO sights.

ETA: As posted by federali... sounds like good advice;
Whenever polishing or filing internal parts, one must try not to get to excited.

 

[Jim1392]

I carry a 640 Pro. Haven't found a thing I want to change on it. It's probably the first revolver I ever bought and couldn't think of something I could do to it to make it better. After it's first range trip it was clean, lube and carry.

 

[HarrishMasher]

Apex kit installed by me, or a trigger job by a Gunsmith. AT the very least my J Frame gets an Apex kit and new grips.

 

[Rpg]

Aside from having my gunsmith do his magic on the trigger, I add a Tyler T and am good to go.

 

[robertrwalsh]

My principle carry revolver was a Colt DS. Except for the addition of a hammer shroud it was completely unmodified. I also sometimes carried a Model 64 RB 3" on which I removed the hammer spur and set it up for double-action only. I also smoothed out the trigger pull on that quite a bit but did not lighten it hardly at all. Very smooth gun.

 

[NYlakesider]

Back in the 70s I carried a Model 60 and as the trigger was extremely stiff I worked on the springs and did some careful polishing. This was in the era before spring kits came out.

Gun never failed to fire and the pull was much better. I left the original wood on it as I sometimes used an upside down holster and it was designed to work only with small grips. Other times an ITWB was used.

 

[jag312]

Nothing mechanically, but I either replace the grips with pretty wood or ivory.

 

[MarkAlt]

Smith did a pretty good job on the 642. Even the grips are excellent.

I have 2 PC tuned 637s and an M&P 340 sitting at home, but like most days, I just grabbed the 642 ...and it's riding with me now in an Uncle Mikes pocket size #4.

 

[Old cop]

Nothing much beyond a T-Grip or slightly oversized grips (XL hands) and a painted front sight. My daily carry is either a 442 or Model 38.

 

[Black_Sheep]

Model 60-14

Deburr and polish the rebound slide
Disable the "IL"
Install an XS Big Dot front sight
Pachmayr Compac grips

 

[Jim1392]

Back in the 70s I carried a Model 60 and as the trigger was extremely stiff I worked on the springs and did some careful polishing. This was in the era before spring kits came out.

Gun never failed to fire and the pull was much better. I left the original wood on it as I sometimes used an upside down holster and it was designed to work only with small grips. Other times an ITWB was used.

You mean one like this. I still have my 60 no dash. I carried it as a backup and off duty. Still love it.

 

[TucsonMTB]

Can't really afford the genuine AirLite revolvers. So, I sort of built my own poor man's version using a couple of used, no-lock, Airweight revolvers and spare titanium cylinders snagged from Midway when they still had them.

I don't believe S&W ever offered a humpback with a titanium cylinder. So, it's probably unique.

Oh, and they have very smooth, somewhat lighter than standard triggers after a little careful polishing and some spring changes. The original grips were OK, but I prefer "wood" from Altamont.

These light carry guns shoot pretty well too, usually at least once a week.

 

[madmikeb]

I add a set of Hogue wood stocks on my revolvers and tritium sights on my semis. Other than that I don't touch a thing.

 

[gmiller0737]

Nothing,Might change Grips if need be,I Like the Factory Boot Grips on My Model 60-7 so it's bone stock.