What do you tune/modify on the revolvers you carry?

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

Not much. Grips, or maybe just a Tyler. Complete internal cleaning and relube, including RIG +P Stainless. Had a few tweaked by Behlert, but I put the hammer block back and went back to a factory mainspring. However, the gun popped primers with Behlert's spring (the original, full length but ground down). I 've bobbed more than a few hammers and ground off the SA notch. I don't bother removing SA notch any more. I have no intention of cocking a gun with no hammer spur, and I just don't care enough about alleged legal ramifications to bother. I have also paid for a polished smooth narrow trigger on a few guns. I may have polished the rebound slide on a few with a Hard Arkansas stone, but with the +P lube, it may not make a big difference.

I have used red nail polish on most of my carry guns.

 

[Otreb]

Nothing, at least in the case of my 442-2. It's has about 2k through it, very good DAO trigger. It came with the spegel designed UM grips, needed nothing there.
In the rare instance I tote a K frame, I just use my DAO mod NY1 64, it has a tyler. I prefer DAO for carry.

 

[mauiblue]

I just finished installing a Apex kit in my Model 638 Airweight the other night. I lightly stoned the rebound slide before I finished the install. I've mounted a set of Nill grips as soon as I got my gun (bought the revolver almost two years ago) as I found the original rubber grips too small and uncomfortable. I hope to shoot it next weekend.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Goldstar225]

I almost always change the grips (smaller hands) but rarely touch the springs. Smooth is more important to me than light so I fit the parts together by shooting the gun. My 642 is bone stock since I like the original grips.

 

[slabside2]

I just bought a new 442 no lock. And over the years i bought lots of J frames so I thought I would have to do some trigger work to it. But to my surprise the trigger is super smooth and the gun shoots dead on. I fitted a titanium cylinder to it and changed out the factory grips and I'm good to go. Still in shock about the trigger. One of S+W assembly fitters must of had a good day.��

 

[Muss Muggins]

just curious what you all change on your carry revolvers.

I have a 642 that is bone stock except for the Badger boot stocks on it and I painted the front sight red. Have thought about trying an Apex kit, but the trigger is pretty smooth and right at 10lbs.

My model 10 is slightly more modified with a DAO and bobbed hammer and right now Hogue Bantam grips, but have a set of Ahrend's retro combats on the way. I'm going to paint the front sight once I get some fluorescent paint, even thought about getting an insert for it.

Thanks for sharing.

Nothing . . .

 

[keithherrington]

Priority One - proper fitting grips. For the most part factory grips are rubbish




Two exceptions are the grips S&W put on some of their Performance Center carry guns such as these



And the grips Ruger put on their SP101s, a very well designed grip that absorbs recoil well yet is not too big to conceal easily



Next is a highly visible front sight such as the XS Sight



I'm in the process of having one of my guns converted to the fixed rear sight from DL Sports



Finally, what you can't see, an action job. Performance Center guns such as my L-Comp, K-Comp and .357 Carry Gun have some of the best actions I've ever felt, and they recontour the trigger before they are finished. Very cool.

Keith

 

[at_liberty]

Priority One - proper fitting grips. For the most part factory grips are rubbish

<snip>And the grips Ruger put on their SP101s, a very well designed grip that absorbs recoil well yet is not too big to conceal easily



Keith

I have never seen a grip from Ruger that looks just like that GP100 style on a SP101. I expect you refer to the older SP101 38 Special only. The current factory grips make a nice platform for grip insert art, but offer no protection for the 357 Magnum shooter. I see them as heavily compromised for concealment purposes. I have rosewood combats on my SP101 and fare pretty well.

 

[S&W Fan]

I put a single action rebound spring in my Model 65, then judiciously polished all moving surfaces. I call it a combat action job. The hammer spring remains full strength to insure positive ignition.

Whenever polishing or filing internal parts, one must try not to get to excited.

The only other mod is having the front of the trigger polished, for me this improves my double action work. My dad did this to his revolvers and it's worked nicely for me.

I've also found the actions on the latest two j frames I bought (442 & 642 no locks) were just fine from the mother ship.

 

[keithherrington]

I have never seen a grip from Ruger that looks just like that GP100 style on a SP101. I expect you refer to the older SP101 38 Special only. The current factory grips make a nice platform for grip insert art, but offer no protection for the 357 Magnum shooter. I see them as heavily compromised for concealment purposes. I have rosewood combats on my SP101 and fare pretty well.

The SP101 shown is a 357 Magnum, not a 38 Special. I can't comment on whether you can or cannot get the grips shown any more. What I can comment are how well they absorb recoil from my 357 loads (Remington 125 grain Golden Saber), and how well the entire gun stays concealed when I carry it. It is by far the easiest gun to conceal of all the guns shown in my post.



Keith

 

[TucsonMTB]

. . . I've also found the actions on the latest two j frames I bought (442 & 642 no locks) were just fine from the mother ship.

Here's hoping S&W continues to produce J-frames with triggers similar to most recent production guns mentioned here.

Last week, a friend of mine asked for my input on trigger work while showing off his latest 642-1 acquisition. Untouched, the trigger felt nearly as nice as mine, which has been carefully, albeit lightly, polished.

I wonder if they have cleaned up the nose of the trigger mold? Even the typical initial grittiness as pressure is first applied to the trigger was nearly imperceptible. Impressed, I suggested that he NOT remove the sideplate.

Jim also assured me that the no-lock 442 our local dealer also has to choose from is just as nice. This is a marked contrast to the original, gritty, 14 pound trigger my older 642-1 started out with.

Kudos to S&W if they keep providing J-frames like this!