What Early Smiths are Safe to Shoot??

[Redcoat3340]

I've got a modest number of Smith revolvers (and far too many pistols) and am semi-maxed on adding to the accumulation.

A Perfected, Terrier, and Mod 33 in 38 S&W; plus 4 Js (well, one's a Bodyguard so not really a J); Outdoorsman, 15-3, Victory, 4th Changge HE , and I just picked up a 10-6 to replace the one I "loaned" to my oldest; plus two 357s (66-2 and 28-2) are all in the safe.

So for me, adding another K or J or magnum is a bit of overkill. And I don't really need anything in .44 mag.

But as I like to shoot what I own I'm now wondering which of the older pistols would be safe to shoot? 38 S&W or 38 special is what I'm after as I'd rather not add another caliber.

And I'm not a cheapskate, but I am now retired and a lot more careful about what I spend...so I try to hunt out bargains, so cost will be a factor.

Any advice will be greatfully received and I'll be re-reading the pertinent parts of the Standard Catalog again, plus playing with Google.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

I didn't see anything that you listed that would not be safe to shoot with standard pressure ammo if in good mechanical condition.

 

[JP@AK]

one's a Bodyguard so not really a J

? Of course it is a J frame.
The original Bodyguard Airweight (later Model 38) was a JAS (aluminum, shrouded).
The Model 49 was a JS (shrouded).
Both are J frame size.

Guy's answer to your basic question is correct. Shoot away.

 

[Jerry in SC]

Pick up some more I frames, they're perfectly sized for the .32 S&W Long and .38 S&W

 

[MajorD]

I didn't see anything that you listed that would not be safe to shoot with standard pressure ammo if in good mechanical condition.

Agree. For 38 S&W, with the exception of some boutique companies like Buffalo bore, the ammo is loaded to be safe in the top breaks ( the solid frame guns like the terrier are fine with the boutique heavier loads)
The best bet for 38 S&W is to buy a few boxes and a set of reloading dies! Easy to load, if you want can even load black powder.

 

[coffeync3]

Pick up some more I frames, they're perfectly sized for the .32 S&W Long and .38 S&W

I ha e a pre model 30, 32 hand ejector. Mine is a J frame. I would love to have an I frame, especially a terrier, but I can't ever locate one in my area or, on the auction sites I look at. Do you know of any gun shops or auction sites that would be likely to carry something like this ?

 

[Jerry in SC]

I ha e a pre model 30, 32 hand ejector. Mine is a J frame. I would love to have an I frame, especially a terrier, but I can't ever locate one in my area or, on the auction sites I look at. Do you know of any gun shops or auction sites that would be likely to carry something like this ?

I found mine locally, the only one I've seen in years. I bought it on the spot. Mine has finish issues but evidently wasn't shot much. There is no magic solution other than being persistent roaming the shops and the classifieds. I've never been one to buy online, I'd rather buy in person.

 

[JP@AK]

I ha e a pre model 30, 32 hand ejector. Mine is a J frame.

The .32 Hand Ejector, whether the so-called "pre-Model 30" or the Model 30, is not a J frame. The .32 HE was built on the I frame until the introduction of the Model 30-1, in 1961. Then it was a J frame.

 

[Redcoat3340]

An apology: I did not make it clear I WASN'T asking which the guns I listed were "safe to shoot."
Rather I'm asking which older S&Ws ala safety hammerless 4th model, .32 s&w DA top break, etc. were safe to shoot. (And I do realize the condition of the actual firearm is critical).
I don't know which "older" Smiths are worth my time looking at and am hoping I can get some guidance here.

 

[Muley Gil]

Avoid the tip-ups from the 19th Century. And the M frame Lady Smith .22 is only safe with BB and maybe CB caps.

 

[Tijeras_Slim]

I've shot all my Smiths except a 1 1/2 Centerfire. Safety Hammerless in both .38 S&W and .32 worked just fine.

 

[Wiregrassguy]

Any S&W handgun that was designed for smokeless powder is safe to shoot except the Ladysmith that Gil mentions above. Also, S&W addressed its black powder top breaks in 1907:

1907 - Smokeless powder guarantee was issued by Smith & Wesson stating that factory loaded smokeless powder was safe for use in their guns.

 

[Alk8944]

Redcoat 3340,

The very first reply is correct, but needs to be expanded a bit. All S&W revolvers ever made are safe to shoot, provided appropriate ammunition is available and they are in good mechanical condition. For the Models 1 and 2. These are chambered for the .22 S&W cartridge (basically the .22 Short) BUT only .22 BB and CB Caps should be used! Same for the Model M Ladysmith.

Any of the top-breaks or hand-ejector series are safe with currently loaded standard pressure or "Cowboy Action" ammunition of correct caliber. Always the caveat of "In good mechanical condition" applies. You have to be the judge of condition!

 

[barnetmill]

There was lot that should have all been destroyed that are not safe to fire.

Colt Aircrewman and Smith & Wesson Aircrewman (M13) revolvers, developed in the 1950s as lightweight sidearms for pilots but ultimately destroyed by the Air Force due to safety concerns over the aluminum cylinder failing under pressure.

 

[Muley Gil]

There was lot that should have all been destroyed that are not safe to fire.

All they needed was to have steel cylinders fitted to them.

 

[KenTheHunter]

I've got a modest number of Smith revolvers (and far too many pistols) and am semi-maxed on adding to the accumulation.

A Perfected, Terrier, and Mod 33 in 38 S&W; plus 4 Js (well, one's a Bodyguard so not really a J); Outdoorsman, 15-3, Victory, 4th Changge HE , and I just picked up a 10-6 to replace the one I "loaned" to my oldest; plus two 357s (66-2 and 28-2) are all in the safe.

So for me, adding another K or J or magnum is a bit of overkill. And I don't really need anything in .44 mag.

But as I like to shoot what I own I'm now wondering which of the older pistols would be safe to shoot? 38 S&W or 38 special is what I'm after as I'd rather not add another caliber.

And I'm not a cheapskate, but I am now retired and a lot more careful about what I spend...so I try to hunt out bargains, so cost will be a factor.

Any advice will be greatfully received and I'll be re-reading the pertinent parts of the Standard Catalog again, plus playing with Google.

Thanks in advance.

Anything post 1900, I think is safe to shoot-with several caveats: Mild, lead bullet loads-no + P. Have gunsmith check the gun over for anomalies.

 

[KenTheHunter]

I ha e a pre model 30, 32 hand ejector. Mine is a J frame. I would love to have an I frame, especially a terrier, but I can't ever locate one in my area or, on the auction sites I look at. Do you know of any gun shops or auction sites that would be likely to carry something like this ?

I have a 1906 H/E 32 Long S&W that I shoot on occasion and with my reloads (115 cswc and Titegroup), no I won't give out the charge wgt

 

[DWalt]

.32 S&W and .38 S&W SAAMI-standard factory loads duplicate the pressure characteristics of the old black powder loads. Therefore they are safe to use in the older top break revolvers in those calibers. Regarding the .38 S&W, it is a simple matter to handload it to achieve standard .38 Special ballistic performance. But such loads should be used only in newer solid frame revolvers, never in top breaks.