What have I got here?

I have a set of mdl12 stocks C259360 don't know what condition these are I have a bunch more all correct diamond airweight grips but might be in the C260xxx range.
 
I wish that I just stumbled into airweight M&Ps.
Let me know if you want to trade into a different K frame.
 
If it were me I would find someone on this forum who will trade you a really nice pre10 M&P. Even though these pre12s are alloy, they are highly collectible. Someone will be happy to get it. See if you can find a snub M&P.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I've been worried about my "mistake" all day. Sounding like I might make out ok in the end. I gave $200 for it. I did ok?

And there is a gap between the frame and top of the grips so they're incorrect.

So what would be a fair asking price were I to sell it?
 
I have 3-model 12 snubbies no pre 12's first of all check under the barrel where it is screwed into the frame and make sure there is no crack. If not light loads such as 148 grain wadcutter should be fine in there, even copper coated ones should be fine, I do not shoot high pressure loads in excess of 200 lb loads. I carry them and love these revolvers. I have one side of the grip if you need it I will send you if you PM me your address.

They are great carry guns but not designed for high pressure rounds.

Pete
 
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Hi guys and gals. I picked up a little S&W revolver today for cheap and I'm trying to find out what it is. I know she ain't beautiful but the lockup and timing are great and she'll make a great farm gun.

Here's what I know (or think I know)
It's a 5-screw (has screw in front of the trigger guard)
It's a round-butt J frame.
I haven't seen the screw on the front grip strap before like this has.
The yoke just shows the number 1542. It matches on the yoke and the frame under the yoke.
The serial # on the butt and the cylinder match.
The right-side of the barrel says "airweight" "38 Special CTG". I'm thinking this isn't the original barrel????
The gun is very light.

So please do me a favor and have a look at the pics and see what you think. Serial is C2321XX.


It IS a M&P Airweight or Pre-Model 12. Looks like the cylinder is the original Alloy cylinder. It should be numbered to the gun on the face of the cylinder. The grips are wrong. Came with Diamond grips.

If it does have the alloy cylinder DO NOT CHANGE IT. It is worth more with the original cylinder. If you just wanted a shooter, sell this one as it sits to a collector use the money which you will likely make a profit and go buy another.

When the alloy cylinders were found to be unsafe, S&W offered for Many many years to replace the cylinder with a steel cylinder free of charge. This offer was still good well in to the 1980's .... now, I doubt it. You would be a fool to have it done now, anyway.

The very, very scarce AirCrewman is essentially the same revolver without the USAF markings which was designated the US M13 lightweight revolver.

You have a nice gun here, don't, DON'T, do NOT mess with it except to perhaps find the correct grips. In the hands of a collector it will be saved for all time

Good luck with that find. If you got a good deal on it a collector will surely pay you more than you paid. You might be very surprised. Good luck there.
 
I must be missing something here.

Let's say that I own that gun. I wish to shoot it, and carry it, and in all other ways treat it like a "gun", instead of some "can't shoot it collectable".

Since the aluminum cylinder has been "found to be unsafe", I buy a steel cylinder. Take the aluminum cylinder out and fit a steel one. Now I have a fine carry gun.

I put the aluminum cylinder away in the safe, carefully packaged and marked that it belongs to 2" M&P, SN C2321xx.

If I ever decide I want to sell this gun, I take the steel cylinder out of it and put the aluminum one back in it.

How have I hurt this gun?
 
If you carry it, you will wear off more finish and reduce its resale value.
If you shoot it, even with a steel cylinder in place, you might crack the aluminum frame and destroy its resale value.

I have a later M12 M&P Airweight with steel cylinder. I shoot it some and carry it. The previous owner who bobbed the hammer spur took care of the collector interest.
 
You did good at $200. I would imagine the correct grips will cost you $100 to $150. If it were me I wouldn't change it and offer it as a trade only on this forum. Tell them you are looking for a snub for concealed carry, preferably a 5 screw. I would bet you will get many offers because there are a lot of collectors looking for the pre12 with the aluminum cylinder. Good luck.
 
My Model 12-2 is my default carry gun. I have no qualms about using it.

Yours, however, is a collector piece, and should be kept that way.

If you really want a Model 12 to shoot, I'd suggest setting up a swap with someone for a nice later Model 12, but make sure it is pinned and recessed. Given yours has more value, a collector would probably be agreeable to absorbing the shipping costs both ways, etc.

(Edit: I forgot, .38 Specials did not have recessed cylinders.)

If you really want to keep it and shoot it, don't use the aluminium cylinder. Find a steel cylinder and have it fitted. And don't put hot loads in it, like some of us did back in the days when these guns were a dime a dozen, as that amounts to "Model 12 Roulette".
 
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I must be missing something here.

Let's say that I own that gun. I wish to shoot it, and carry it, and in all other ways treat it like a "gun", instead of some "can't shoot it collectable".

Since the aluminum cylinder has been "found to be unsafe", I buy a steel cylinder. Take the aluminum cylinder out and fit a steel one. Now I have a fine carry gun.

I put the aluminum cylinder away in the safe, carefully packaged and marked that it belongs to 2" M&P, SN C2321xx.

If I ever decide I want to sell this gun, I take the steel cylinder out of it and put the aluminum one back in it.

How have I hurt this gun?


Probably not much at all but steel cylinder or not, I wouldn't feed an alloy frame revolver a steady diet of +P ammo. You've got such a small investment in it, why bother finding and fitting a steel cylinder to it. It would better the likelihood that years from now when you go look for the alloy cylinder .... and now you're an old man like me ... you'll be thinking, "I known I have the alloy cylinder somewhere, now, where did I put it ? Oh, Junior made a desk pen holder out of it" LOL.
 
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