What is your preferred "De-Lockification" technique?

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i8mtm

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Hello to my fellow S&W fans that, like me, just *had* to buy certain of the internal lock models.

of course, I mainly buy older pre-lock guns, but my 340PD, my 329PD and now my 327 Performance Center are ONLY available with locks.

These are outstanding special purpose firearms, but I refused to carry them for defense until I removed the flag part of the lock mechanism.

I do not have a gaping hole in the side of my guns because I do not remove the entire lock mechanism. I only remove the locking flag. Pull that sucker straight out and put it in a little baggy!

I have had NO PROBLEMS with this method, and I have the unaltered flag that I could re-assemble into the gun if I were to sell it.

However, I like to hear what YOUR preferred method of de-lockification is! Do you just pull the flag as I do? Do you grind off the locking nubbin and put the flag back? Or do you just take the whole damn thing out?

Anyone witness any problems from removing or disabling the lock?

Please note, I would appreciate if the responses can stay on topic. I am NOT trying to debate whether or not the lock is a good thing, or whether or not it fails, blah blah. I have already made up my mind I will not carry an IL revolver for defense unless the offending parts have been removed or rendered inert.

If you have an IL revolver, and it has never failed you, and you have complete confidence in it, that is great, but it doesn't answer the question I am posing here.

So, for those of you that have taken the IL out, how did you do it and what has been your experience with your gun?

Thanks!
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Hello to my fellow S&W fans that, like me, just *had* to buy certain of the internal lock models.

of course, I mainly buy older pre-lock guns, but my 340PD, my 329PD and now my 327 Performance Center are ONLY available with locks.

These are outstanding special purpose firearms, but I refused to carry them for defense until I removed the flag part of the lock mechanism.

I do not have a gaping hole in the side of my guns because I do not remove the entire lock mechanism. I only remove the locking flag. Pull that sucker straight out and put it in a little baggy!

I have had NO PROBLEMS with this method, and I have the unaltered flag that I could re-assemble into the gun if I were to sell it.

However, I like to hear what YOUR preferred method of de-lockification is! Do you just pull the flag as I do? Do you grind off the locking nubbin and put the flag back? Or do you just take the whole damn thing out?

Anyone witness any problems from removing or disabling the lock?

Please note, I would appreciate if the responses can stay on topic. I am NOT trying to debate whether or not the lock is a good thing, or whether or not it fails, blah blah. I have already made up my mind I will not carry an IL revolver for defense unless the offending parts have been removed or rendered inert.

If you have an IL revolver, and it has never failed you, and you have complete confidence in it, that is great, but it doesn't answer the question I am posing here.

So, for those of you that have taken the IL out, how did you do it and what has been your experience with your gun?

Thanks!
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Both of mine (65 and 637) have had the flag's stud ground off. But I bought spare flags for both to replace them if I ever decide to sell either (unlikely).

Nowadays I would just remove the flag and spring intact and secure them away. S&W wised up about people buying flags and now won't sell them any more.
 
Wow Machtech! Awesome pictures. Please post more when you finish.

My method is like getting a quick drive-thru burger for dinner and your method looks like a filet mingon slow cooked on an open grill.

If I am guessing right, when you are done there will be NO evidence of a lock ever being on these guns?

I wish I had that kind of skill.

Don't forget to post the finished pics!

Thanks
 
Like I have said before, I was cleaning my 629 and that little flag thingy just popped out and now I can't get it back in. Oh well. I just put it in a baggy and will wait for a S&W technician to stop by my house and fix it for me. I would never willfully disable an internal locking device.

It seems to shoot very well without that flag.
 
342ti--Mine popped out during cleaning,and I don't have but one 342, so I didn't have an example how it went back together.
Before I put the cylinder release back on I put a NRA sticker, cut down to size, over the hole to keep dirt out. Not as nice as a plug.
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MACHTECH,
I look forward to seeing the completed guns. Have you considered tacking a plate to the back of the stud to fill the gap next to the hammer?
 
Wow! You guys really embarrass me!

I guess I'm pretty lazy. Cuz when I pulled the locking system out of my 642, I was worried about lint and dust getting in the little hole. All I did was to remove the cylinder release latch, put a piece of quality clear tape over the hole, and replace the cylinder release latch. It has been pretty much invisible in the 3 years since.

However you guys are really doing nice things...I guess I'm going to have to re-think what I do.
 
I fixed my 22-4. Maybe you can tell what I did with these photos.
www.photobucket.com/albums/v326/Fatdutchman/Pistols/LockRemoval

I ditched the lock, and threaded and plugged the hole with a bolt (1/4-28). The hole in the plate was counterbored slightly on the outside, and the bolt peened down once in place. Inside and out. It is permanent. It is "dangerous" work, as you have to be VERY careful where you're peening, since you don't want to go whackin' on any of the pins in the frame.

While I was at it, I filed away the long boss behind the recoil shield and made it look more like a proper stud.

I still need to solder in a little slip of metal where the "flag" was, but it is not necessary, as nothing is going to come out of place without it. I just haven't gotten around to it yet.

I suppose it will need to be properly reblued, but I imagine I'll end up just leaving it with Oxpho blue...

A stainless gun would be much easier to do in respect to finish.
 
When I got my Mountain Gun, I simply took out the locking flag with the spring along with it, That way there is no unsightly hole in the side of the gun, and it is simple to put right back into the gun if it needed to go back to S & W.
 
Has anyone just hit the lock with Red Loctite and just left it in the gun?
Best regards,
ADP3
 
Originally posted by ADP3:
Has anyone just hit the lock with Red Loctite and just left it in the gun?
Best regards,
ADP3

I was thinking about using Blue Loctite instead.
 
Take all the parts out. Works best with Centennial and Bodyguard versions, since hammer flag channel is not seen anyway.

Note that a dysfunctional, partially removed lock that has an apparently operational turning cylinder may be more of a liability than a completely removed one, both in a legal/practical sense, and in reliability.
 
Originally posted by Alx:
Note that a dysfunctional, partially removed lock that has an apparently operational turning cylinder may be more of a liability than a completely removed one, both in a legal/practical sense, and in reliability.
For liability to attach, I would have to

a) Give control of my weapon to someone else

AND

b) Give them the ability to operate the non-functional lock. I.e. give them the key to it.

AND

c) Represent the lock as functional or fail to inform them that it is not.
 
(If) you are killed in auto accident, and someone else inherits your gun, and thinks the lock is operative and somehow an AD happens, it's going to be your fault, and you might get sued by a devilish lawyer in your afterlife.

Basically, you never know what will happen in court.
 
Originally posted by Alx:
(If) you are killed in auto accident, and someone else inherits your gun, and thinks the lock is operative and somehow an AD happens, it's going to be your fault, and you might get sued by a devilish lawyer in your afterlife.

Basically, you never know what will happen in court.

If you are killed in an auto accident, isn't getting sued in court the least of your problems?
 
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