What lube between a Aluminum frame and ss slide like on my 4043?

[Ascension]

This is the first aluminum frame auto I have owned. When I got it it was quite stiff to rack with dried gunk everywhere internally. After a through cleaning I used Breakfree very sparingly as an internal lube and in particular between the frame and slide but wonder if there is something better out there for the dual metal slide frame combo?

 

[timn8er]

You will get a lot of opinions on this! Mine, for what its worth, is to use Lubriplate's gun formulation. If you've ever rebuilt a motor, you know what Lubriplate is. I put a very thin coat on the rail & slide contact points whenever I clean a pistol, & wipe off the excess after I put it back together. Works fine for me.

 

[Ascension]

What I am concerned with is the frame cracking issue on these.
This one would not have performed well had i not really cleaned it as there was a mix of dried oil and soot really gumming up the area where the slide and frame come together on this one. Looked like it was taken out and shot then had been put up dirty and not touched for quite some time. Slide was REALLY stiff to rack when I first got it. It cleaned up really well and looks to not have been fired much as I found very little internal wear after I cleaned all the gunk out.
Slide feels about as heavy to rack now as my 1066 with a 20lb spring so I would think it safe to run a few rounds. I plan to get it to the range and fire a mag or 2 with light loads tomorrow to make sure it shoots on target and cycles as it should. If everything checks out I plan to order a spring kit and maybe a set of grips and then start daily carrying this one.

 

[03Fatboy]

If I was worried about cracking I wouldn't have bought it. However, as mentioned Lubriplate should do you fine as it has me on mine which includes Al frames.

 

[RDFabsRep]

Also very curious about this topic. My 6926 is dry right now, and being no stranger to metal-working, that worries me.

 

[cpeblue]

If it slides use grease, if it turns use oil. Been doing this since the mid 1970s and have yet to wear a pistol out. Lube them and pay attention to the recoil spring and it will out last you.

 

[Ascension]

If I was worried about cracking I wouldn't have bought it. However, as mentioned Lubriplate should do you fine as it has me on mine which includes Al frames.

The general consensus on the frame cracking issue seems to be if these are properly maintained it's a non issue unless you plan on running many thousands of rounds of +P through these.
This will be a defensive carry piece and I have a pair of 10mm's to carry if I need something really nasty. Not planning on running hot 10mm short loads in this one so that should not be an issue.
Keeping these properly lubed was one thing that was mentioned in particular so I was looking into what was recommended.
Will look into the Lubriplate as I am familiar with the break in lubes that they have.

 

[ednred]

Slide Glide is one of the best. It's super slippery and adheres well to the slide rails.

 

[Ascension]

Slide Glide is one of the best. It's super slippery and adheres well to the slide rails.

Will look into that in particular as something that will stay put is what I am really looking for here. I also run some pretty ballistic loads in my 1066 ( carry Underwood) so that goes for both my S&W's.

 

[Neumann]

Ordinarily, you use oil below about 30F and grease at higher temperatures. Otherwise the action can get sluggish if the grease thickens, or oil run off at higher temps. There are exceptions.

I've seen a lot of recommendations for Mil-Spec TW25B, a white synthetic grease with TFE, rated from 120F down to -40F. I use it on various SIGs and a S&W 1911PD, all having aluminum frames. It is applied in a thin, transparent layer, using a cotton swab or toothpick. It forms a thin, teflon coating, and doesn't wash off with Ballistol, CLP or REM Oil. In fact, it's good to float a little oil on top of grease for maximum lubricity.

It's all I've used on a SIG P239 .40, which was new. There is no visible wear in the grooves or frame after two years. My older guns have shiny spots in the grooves, but no serious wear. I also use it on the BCG of an AR, and the internal parts of most guns, especially the sears.

 

[Ascension]

Lube them and pay attention to the recoil spring and it will out last you.

Exactly what I intend to do!
I have a Browning High Power that I have run many many thousands of rounds through over the last 20 + years and have always used Breakfree in particular on the slide to frame area. Replaced a couple parts over the years but she still looks and shoots about as good as it did the day I bought it.

The aluminum frame SS slide is a new wrinkle for me so wanted to ask on this one.

 

[timn8er]

I too have a BHP, but I have no idea of the round count. It was shot quite a bit before I got it, & I haven't exactly let it lay around either. Its one of my favorites & the only non S&W semi I own.

 

[Ascension]

Ordinarily, you use oil below about 30F and grease at higher temperatures. Otherwise the action can get sluggish if the grease thickens, or oil run off at higher temps. There are exceptions.

I've seen a lot of recommendations for Mil-Spec TW25B, a white synthetic grease with TFE, rated from 120F down to -40F. I use it on various SIGs and a S&W 1911PD, all having aluminum frames. It is applied in a thin, transparent layer, using a cotton swab or toothpick. It forms a thin, teflon coating, and doesn't wash off with Ballistol, CLP or REM Oil. In fact, it's good to float a little oil on top of grease for maximum lubricity.

It's all I've used on a SIG P239 .40, which was new. There is no visible wear in the grooves or frame after two years. My older guns have shiny spots in the grooves, but no serious wear. I also use it on the BCG of an AR, and the internal parts of most guns, especially the sears.

I'm in Alabama so---. Will look into the TW25B as that in particular sounds interesting.
I have been carrying a Glock but really don't care much for shooting tactical tupperware. That was why I picked up the aluminum frame 4043 to EDC.
I just need to know what to use to lube her.

 

[TexasG]

I like super lube. Operates over a temperature range from -45° to 450° F.

Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease

 

[James&theGiant1911]

The Hi Power was my first pistol and they are great 9mms. A testament to Browning's genius is that gun in particular. I bought a tube of mill comm TW25b and it works great. Lasts a long time, will not fling off and does not dry up in its applicator tube. Great Stuff IMO.

and before I posted this someone already recommended it, yeah anytime where two different metal types slide back and forth onto one another requires grease but I also use it on my Hi Power as well, and standard oil on springs and barrels.

 

[Ascension]

I too have a BHP, but I have no idea of the round count. It was shot quite a bit before I got it, & I haven't exactly let it lay around either. Its one of my favorites & the only non S&W semi I own.

I had never considered the S&W gen 2/3 autos until I picked up my 1066. Made the Glock 29 I have suddenly feel like a cheap toy + immediately felt familiar after owning a shooting High Powers for all those years.
This 4043 is my second S&W auto and I think I'm hooked as now I want a 1006 and a 9mm or some kind to go with them!

 

[10xatten]

I think you will be well lubed with TW25B, as that is what SIG recommends for their AL framed pistols. I use it on all my Smith autos (except the 41), and have experienced no problems. Slide Glide is good, too, especially if you have a rattely slide.

Best,
Richard

 

[cpeblue]

I've been shooting a lot of .357 sig with my 229, I reload so the rds are a bit hot they crono at a bit over 1400fps and the gun is still tight. Great rd , if I miss you , I'll still set you on fire.
Unless your shooting Buffalo bores 37,000psi stuff I would not see a problem with standard .40 with a good recoil spring.
We hear about cracked frames but rarely do we see the pics of them. If you are that worried about cracking a frame pick up a 4046 for practice as I don't think you could hurt one of them.

 

[nocents]

I have been doing an unscientific side by side test of Slide Glide and Lubriplate.....both seem to give similar results and at this point I cant really say if there is a clear cut frontrunner....I will continue with at least one or maybe both for a while....got wind of the slide glide on the Sig forum and use on the S&W was a natural

 

[nocents]

.......besides...I dont think that grease or the lack thereof will help that much for frame cracking issues and more for frame rail galling and excessive wear in that scenario....but am sure someone will correct me if wrong