The gents who remarked that both have an effect are correct. The springs on most revolvers are strong enough that you could probably pack the innards with grease, put them in the freezer and/or neglect them for 20+ years and the revolver will still function. Assuming you're more couth than that, there's room for improvement.
Doing a complete action job removes/minimizes friction points, but you're just looking at changing springs. Toolguy's got the basics.
OK, easy way, Brownells/Wolff sells a spring pack of rebound/trigger return springs from 10-16 or so lbs. Get that pack. With the standard mainspring in place and the strain screw tight, work your way down the rebound spring rates until you get trigger return failure. Go back up one spring or until you get good return function. I prefer to rework used factory springs, but that's a whole 'nother subject.
If you're happy with that, fine. If not, adjust the mainspring strain screw slightly. If you're using the piece for anything serious, blue Loc-Tite is your friend when you find the correct adjustment. I recently tried trimming the strain screw and decided there are better ways to waste money. BIG POINT: if you're primarily a single action shooter, your want to do some dry fire while trying springs. A comfortable DA pull can sometimes result in a 2 lb or less single action pull which might not be what you want. Or what you may be safe with.
You didn't mention frame size. Because of different mechanical advantage, the different frame sizes need different mainspring tension to remain reliable. You also end up with different minimum rebound spring tensions.