What spring determines trigger pull weight

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If you are talking about a .357 you might find that it will shoot .38 spl. fine but will have problems with magnum loads. This is according to Straight Shooter Jake. I actually did experience that using commercial ammunition.

I believe the rebound spring has more effect when in single action mode. I never mess with the main spring, only with the rebound spring and the biggest difference is having a hair trigger in single action.
 
I will normally install a 14 lb rebound spring in my S&W's, and leave the mainspring alone. A little stoning helps, and a "slight" adjustment of the OAL of the strain screw might be done if needed.
 
They both affect trigger pull on DA. The rebound spring mainly on SA.
For target and competition guns only, NOT duty or carry guns.
I change out the strain screw with a #8-32 x 1/2" socket head set screw held in place with blue Loctite. This makes the strain screw adjusable. The screw can then be turned with an allen wrench, but will stay where you leave it.

You can adjust the screw for the minimum tension that will reliably set off whatever primers you are using. Then try different rebound springs to get the kind of trigger return you want. Make sure the SA doesn't push off. This is the easy way to lighten the trigger pull some. If you want to make it lighter, it gets more involved.
 
Wolff Type 2 and either 13 or 14 lbs return spring in all of my N frame Smiths. I also make a custom strain screws with set screws to the strain screw does not stick out too far. If I get a light primer strike, set screw gets dialed in a bit more.
 
The gents who remarked that both have an effect are correct. The springs on most revolvers are strong enough that you could probably pack the innards with grease, put them in the freezer and/or neglect them for 20+ years and the revolver will still function. Assuming you're more couth than that, there's room for improvement.

Doing a complete action job removes/minimizes friction points, but you're just looking at changing springs. Toolguy's got the basics.

OK, easy way, Brownells/Wolff sells a spring pack of rebound/trigger return springs from 10-16 or so lbs. Get that pack. With the standard mainspring in place and the strain screw tight, work your way down the rebound spring rates until you get trigger return failure. Go back up one spring or until you get good return function. I prefer to rework used factory springs, but that's a whole 'nother subject.

If you're happy with that, fine. If not, adjust the mainspring strain screw slightly. If you're using the piece for anything serious, blue Loc-Tite is your friend when you find the correct adjustment. I recently tried trimming the strain screw and decided there are better ways to waste money. BIG POINT: if you're primarily a single action shooter, your want to do some dry fire while trying springs. A comfortable DA pull can sometimes result in a 2 lb or less single action pull which might not be what you want. Or what you may be safe with.

You didn't mention frame size. Because of different mechanical advantage, the different frame sizes need different mainspring tension to remain reliable. You also end up with different minimum rebound spring tensions.
 
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Remember that when you lighten the rebound spring you may run into problems with trigger reset and "short stroking" the trigger.

Also, when you lighten the action you slow the action down, and that limits how fast you can shoot.
Many speed shooters install HEAVIER springs to speed up the action.

Having the action smoothed makes the trigger feel lighter.

I always thought that a better option to lightening the trigger in a revolver is to practice and build up the strength in your trigger finger.
 
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