I have a S&W 6" 586-3 from around 1989, a friend of mine have a brand new 686 6" (150 rounds) he want`s to trade for my 586.....this is a trade with no cash involved...he wants to trade because he dont like the lock and he want`s a revolver with "a real hammer" a he says.....what would you guy`s do ?
What to do ?
- Thread starter Knigge
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
Lonegle57
Member
All of us can give you advice but it boils down to what you want to do. From my view point, I like Smith's and prefer the older ones, maybe because I am pushing 60? I can always go to the LGS and get a 686, a non lock 586 I will have to look for. I would keep the 586 and go get a new 686 if it appeals that much to me.
DD357
Member
I consider your 586 much more desirable. Would not make the trade.
RobertJ.
Member
This was my thought, also. I wouldn't trade.
M3Stuart
Member
+1 on 'would not trade'. I could always go out and buy a new 686 if I wanted one. But an older, (OP didn't describe condition) 586 in great condition would be much harder to come by. However, if the 586 is beat-to-heck I might do the deal.
Last edited:
AveragEd
Member
Another vote for not trading. Your gun is no longer made while his is and will be for the foreseeable future. I would never buy an IL/MIM gun much less trade a no-lock, forged parts gun for one.
I have no doubt the newer ones are made much more consistently as less hand-fitting is required in their assembly but not even one of my older S&W revolvers has an operational or fit concern.
Ed
I have no doubt the newer ones are made much more consistently as less hand-fitting is required in their assembly but not even one of my older S&W revolvers has an operational or fit concern.
Ed
bigwheelzip
Absent Comrade
Here is what you would get from the deal.
686-4, 1993, change rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame, change extractor, hogue grips
686-5, 1997, change frame design to eliminate cylinder stop stud, eliminate serrated tangs, change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin, change to MIM trigger, change internal lockwork
686-6, 2001, internal lock
686-4, 1993, change rear sight leaf, drill and tap frame, change extractor, hogue grips
686-5, 1997, change frame design to eliminate cylinder stop stud, eliminate serrated tangs, change to MIM hammer with floating firing pin, change to MIM trigger, change internal lockwork
686-6, 2001, internal lock
I think this trade depends on what YOU want. You've already seen that the preference among those who responded to your question is for the older, blue gun. However, if you would RATHER have the newer, stainless gun, then its a win for everybody and I wouldn't worry about the respective monetary values. Don't just do a favor for your friend to get him what HE wants.
KEEP YOUR GUN! As others have said, you can buy a new 686 any time you please. 
qballwill
Member
Keep your 586, Ive had both the newer 686 and one from the same era as your 586. Both are great guns, but I would keep the older one in a heart beat over the newer one.
I think there is at least a 15% difference in the value between the older 586 and the current 686, with the 586 the higher value.
A brand New 686 goes for around 9000 Norwegian kroner, my friends gun is tuned With wolf springs and the barrel is set bak to tighten the gap between cylinder and barrel, this is another 1000 kroner, i bought my 586 from another friend a couple of years ago for 3500 kroner 
but i think the 586 is a keeper along With my race tuned mod 19
but i think the 586 is a keeper along With my race tuned mod 19
