What to look out for in used 686??

Larks

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I'm considering either a new or a used 686, with the used ones that I'm considering at the moment being from around the 2002/03/04 era.

I don't (yet) know when the "lock" that I see mentioned quite a bit came in (when referring to pre and post-lock 686's), but while I continue to scour the forum (and other threads on the web for information on that and for anywhere that this topic has already been discussed), I'd really appreciate any thoughts/warnings/comments from members here who have "been there done that" on what to look out for specifically second hand 686's.

I've seen these clips and found them incredibly useful:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95xjizDOrcc[/ame]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMOGVWB-QHw&autoplay=1:D&app=desktop
many thanks
Greg
 
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Welcome to the forum, sir. I have 3 686s, a dash 3, dash 4, and dash 6. The numbers following the dash/hyphen indicate changes in design that occurred, either as cost-cutting measures, improvements, to provide desireable features, or etc.(you may already be familiar with all that).

The lock was added to the dash 6 model and continues with the more recent models. My dash 6 model was made around 2002, and I believe that that was close to the date of introduction of the dash 6.

The 686, in my view, is an outstanding revolver regardless of the dash number. Individual models may have one or more flaws, usually not real serious. Whatever one you're considering deserves/needs to be examined for problems just as any other model would.

Well, I'm out of time; maybe I can add something later on.

Best wishes,
Andy
 
I believe the SCoSW says the lock came with the -6 in 2001, but the ealiest -6 I've ever seen shipped in May of 2002.

As far as what to look for, just like any other S&W revolver. There's a sticky at the top of the forum page on what to check out. Flame cutting (or the lack of) in the top strap is easy to spot. Prominent case head imprints on the recoil shield are also an indication of a gun that's been shot a lot.
 
I WOULD BE LOOKING FOR A CLEAN USED REVOLVER, IN THE BARREL LENGTH OF YOUR CHOICE. ANY THING IN THE VARIANTS BETWEEN A NO-DASH, AND A -4 ARE FINE SHOOTERS, AND HAVE GREAT FEATURES, W/O THE IL…..
 
If you happen to come upon a nice older no dash or dash1, look for an "M" stamp above the serial number.
If it has none, the cylinder might bind with magnum ammo. You can send it in to S&W for a free upgrade with a new hammer nose, firing pin bushing, etc.
 
Greg,

Take a cleaning rod, patches and some oil with you to push through the barrel looking for bulges. One of our guys bought a 686 with a bulge in the barrel and did not discover it until first time he cleaned it.

Take a small torch with you as well to check barrel, chambers and timing.

Other than that the Midway video covers most things to look for.

A couple of ideas in this youtube video as well.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMOGVWB-QHw[/ame]

Happy hunting, Mike
 
Greg,

Take a cleaning rod, patches and some oil with you to push through the barrel looking for bulges. One of our guys bought a 686 with a bulge in the barrel and did not discover it until first time he cleaned it.

Take a small torch with you as well to check barrel, chambers and timing.

Other than that the Midway video covers most things to look for.

A couple of ideas in this youtube video as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WMOGVWB-QHw

Happy hunting, Mike

I understood once I saw where you're from.
Carry on, mate. :D
 
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