What wears out on a S&W revolver?

[timbo813]

I'm just curious, what problems can you run into if you shoot a revolver a lot. Say you ran a steady diet of 357 mag's through a 686 what would wear out? Does the accuracy decline or will it stop working? How many rounds would it take to wear one out?

Also, if something does wear out, will S&W repair it under warranty?

 

[Tslepebull]

I've seen some broken and worn out model 19's and 66's but I have never seen a worn out 686; I can't answer your question.

 

[gr7070]

Your wallet.

IIUC

 

[handgunner356]

Your trigger finger.

 

[JayDubya]

. . . and the web of your hand, as well as your patience. Besides, if you succeed in "wearing out" your 686, Smith&Wesson will fix it or replace it at no charge, other than what the feds may require (i.e., new serial number = new gun = new background check, etc.).

Cordially, Jack

 

[Sarge45]

Typically what can wear on revolvers in general is the action which dictates lockup. The hand and the ratchet teeth on the cylinder "can" wear and cause you to not lock true to the bore. This can cause misalignment and cause the bullet to strike the forcing cone off-center and ruin accuracy, in addition to batttering the gun. In a nutshell anyway.

 

[RedBerens]

Are ratchet teeth hard to replace? Specifically on older P&R guns?

 

[1851coltnavy]

My Dad shot a 586 in NRA "Action Pistol" competition from 1993 to 2007. He got the gun used, from a guy who had already put an unknown number of rounds through it shooting PPC. Dad shot a match every month during those years, and when he retired in '96 he went to the range twice a week and shot a couple hundred rounds each practice session. I'd have to estimate, but knowing my Dad (who has since passed, or I'd just ask him) he probably shot 30,000 rounds through the gun before he had to send it to Smith to have a new cylinder installed because he wore out the ratchet.

 

[Bullseye Smith]

The hand will be first, new is > $10.00

 

[andyo5]

It is possible to wear the bore out by cleaning it either too much or not enough.

 

[6pack]

How about flame cutting?

Will S&W cover this?

 

[sw282]

si----------

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

With mine I think the owner will wear out long before the revolvers do.

 

[Marshall 357]

So would you say a revolver will last longer than an auto?

 

[Harrison]

I wore out a Colt Series 70, 1911 in the 1990s shooting and practicing IPSC. Some weeks I shot in excess of 500 rounds of major power factor ammo (back in the days when PF was 175). As I recall, replaced several links, and pins, extractors, sears, disconnectors, barrel cracked and the slide cracked. The frame rails got battered and had to be re-trued.The gunsmith who built the pistol was one of the best 1911 men in the country and is well known, he also repaired it over the years.

At present the only thing still original on the pistol is the frame and slide stop.

I have not managed to wear out any S&W revolvers.

 

[duckloads]

I've sent three revolvers back to S&W for excessive endshake. Two I bought brand new... A 625-9 and a 460 XVR. It didn't take very many rounds to loosen them up. After the repairs (stretch the yoke and re-set B/C gap) no more worries after more than three times the rounds fired.

The third gun is a 686-1 that I bought used. The endshake was terrible. I sent it back to fix the endshake, replace the yoke, action job, and to recess the muzzel crown. It has been at S&W for over two months. Still waiting.

I also have shot the snot out of a M15-4 with +P ammo without a single sign of it loosening up.

My opinion based upon my experiences. My stainless guns have loosened up. I think the frames have stretched to some point and then stop. Once the frames stretch and repairs are made as stated, The gun is better than new.

 

[stiab]

what would wear out?

Firing pins definitely wear out...this is a failure you cannot "clear" in the field...

 

[TAROMAN]

The bolt on my Model 60. First revolver breakdown in 40+ years.

 

[Centenniel]

S&W revolvers are very durable. With a modest amount of care, even with heavy use, one will last quite a while. If you do manage to wear one beyond reasonable repair, then buy another one.

 

[ab4ka]

short of outright abuse or shooting (way) overly-hot reloads, I'd think it would be awfully difficult to wear out an L frame. As for the rest, I think for the most part it would still come down to abuse.

 

[ColColt]

I've sent three revolvers back to S&W for excessive endshake.

The third gun is a 686-1 that I bought used.

For the uninformed, what is "end shake"?

 

[stantheman86]

End shake is the movement of the cylinder front and back while the gun is in lockup. Put in a snap cap or fired casing, dry fire the revolver and hold the trigger back, and grip the cylinder and pull and push it forward and back. If it moves excessively, get some feeler gauges and measure the b/c gap while in lockup, measure with the cylinder pushed forward all the way and then back all way to get your endshake measurement.

I have a very loose 28-2 that has .002 in endshake, doesn't seem like a lot, but it is. If I shake the gun I can hear the cylinder rattling against the recoil plate. Debating wheither to send it back to S&W or just try endshake bearings. I have $380 in the gun and bought it as a "range blaster" so I am hesitant to sink any more into it when I own much tighter examples. It must have taken a LOT of .357 to loosen up this Highway Patrolman. If you find yourself a nice Model 28 that's tight and just shoot .38 out of it, I imagine it would last several lifetimes.

 

[Wayne M]

Cylinder endshake is being able to push the cylinder back toward the recoil shield when it is closed into the gun. Too much can cause misfires since the hammer nose or firing pin cannot make adequate impact with the primer(a small amount is very common).

I can attest for certain that 19K of a mixed bag of HOT 38's and 357 Magnums(99 % cast) doesn't even phase a 686. Not trying to wear one out, I just keep shooting. Still.....you gotta have parts just because, well, ya gotta have parts! The time may come when you need service and you're the ONLY one to do it. Supersticious I guess.

 

[minconrevo]

I too am putting the wear on a 686. Around 10k hard cast lead 158 gr, loaded to +P. No real wear at this point, although I did correct the endshake; it was a used gun when I got it, direct from the road trooper who carried it.

The cylinder sidewall thickness (in bolt notch area) on an L-frame is more than an N-frame. I think it is going to be difficult to wear out this 686.

I'm trying to avoid the broken firing pin nuisance by using snap caps when dry firing. Additionally I've used Powers washers to center the hammer and trigger, so the hammer stroke is always straight.

 

[stantheman86]

99% of what I shoot through my .357 S&W's is standard .38 Special, that includes my 581 and 3 M28's. I don't think I have much to worry about I don't think an L or N frame would even blink at a lifetime of .38 Special going through it.

I think of all my .357's as .38's with .357 capability. I see no need to put un-needed stress on the guns just for punching paper. IMO my 581 is the world's best .38 Special revolver, that can use .357's if I need to