What's the best 686 dash number revolver?

[wellthought1]

I'm interested in knowing what the best 686-? is. Any ideas and please share why you chose your dash number.

 

[murphydog]

Some say earlier is better, so a plain 686. Or one after the M modification, so a -2. Or one that is the last with forged internal parts (and the old style rear sight), the -3. Or drilled and tapped for an optic mount, the -4. Many don’t mind the internal lock (-6, the current version)...

So it may be best to find one in a length and grip frame style you like.

 

[wellthought1]

Some say earlier is better, so a plain 686. Or one after the M modification, so a -2. Or one that is the last with forged internal parts, the -3. Or drilled and tapped for an optic mount, the -4. Many don’t mind the internal lock (-6, the current version)...

So it may be best to find one in a length and grip frame style you like.

I have a 686-4. Do you think it has any MIM parts inside of it? I recently sent it to S&W for warranty repair. I hope they don't put MIM parts in it.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

I have three 686+s. One is a 2.5" that some folks would prefer because it has no lock. The 3" and the 4" do have ILs but I don't care.

I like them all just fine!

 

[Sevens]

Some say earlier is better, so a plain 686. Or one after the M modification, so a -2.

I'd just like to clarify for folks who don't dig as deep in to the knowledge of these as some of us do. It's been my experience that a 686-2 and stamped as such seems to be a scarce bird. While a 686-2 is effectively a 686 no-dash (or dash-1) with an "M" stamp, actually finding a 686 that is stamped as a 686-1 or 686-2 has seemingly been a tougher gun to find than either a 686 no-dash or a 686 no-dash with the "M" stamp.

If you find a 686 no-dash (or a 686-1), Smith & Wesson still to this day continues to honor the recall and will modify it and add the "M" stamp. And as you eluded to, the 686-2 doesn't require the recall work and the recall won't apply.

Others may report that their unmodified 686 no-dash with no "M" stamp has never given them a lick of trouble.

686-3 is the one I own and love, has the newer yoke retention.

686-4 has the ugly Hogue rubber grip but the newer rear sight and the top strap is already drilled and tapped for optics if (YUCK) you ever want them.

686-4 is also the introduction of the 686+ model with a 7-shot cylinder and should have no MIM, still has a hammer mounted firing pin.

686-5 has the MIM parts and the frame mount firing pin but is still pre-lock.

686-6 is the first one with the ILS, internal lock.

If you were able to poll all the 686 enthusiasts who have strong opinions, you would quite literally hear a lot of discussion and solid arguments for their favorite but I'm not sure that any one dash number would prevail and if it did, it sure wouldn't be by a landslide.

Myself personally, I love S&W revolvers from my formative years in firearms, and that means I love S&W revolvers from the early 80's to the mid-90's the most. Long time S&W revolver guys would likely NOT agree with my favorite, and the 1950's guns are huge favorites. Of course with the Model 686, the earliest you can get is 1980.

I'm most comfortable with a 686-3 and my second choice is any 686 before the dash-3, and I would choose "M" stamp (or dash-2) first for the simple fact that I have no burning desire to ship my revolver off to Massachusetts.

 

[murphydog]

I have a 686-4. Do you think it has any MIM parts inside of it? I recently sent it to S&W for warranty repair. I hope they don't put MIM parts in it.

Does it have a frame-mounted firing pin, or is there a hollow groove on the back of the trigger? If so, MIM parts.

 

[dmthomp32]

The -4 should be no MIM and the final engineering change before MIM (-5) and locks (-6) showed up. I have a -4 and I think it represents the best of the updates and changes before making exceptions. That said I've shot plenty of later variations with internal locks and honestly they are still a great product overall.

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk

 

[wellthought1]

I have three 686+s. One is a 2.5" that some folks would prefer because it has no lock. The 3" and the 4" do have ILs but I don't care.

I like them all just fine!

-------------------------------------------------------

I don't care about the lock either. For me, it's a non-issue. I don't really care about MIM parts either. They're high quality precision steel parts!

 

[wellthought1]

Does it have a frame-mounted firing pin, or is there a hollow groove on the back of the trigger? If so, MIM parts.

Hammer mounted firing pin and trigger looks solid with two "edges" toward the frame.

 

[shouldazagged]

I have a 686-4. Do you think it has any MIM parts inside of it? I recently sent it to S&W for warranty repair. I hope they don't put MIM parts in it.

It's been pretty clear for some time that there is nothing wrong with MIM parts. They are made to very precise measurements, and appear to be just as durable as the forged ones.

My newest Smith revolver is 1990 vintage, and I've never had one with MIM innards. But I'm on this site a lot, and if people were raising hell about them failing or being inferior I would see it.

 

[S&W Fan]

For me it's the no dash 686 my late dad bought new Sept. 1981. Used it to teach both my sons how to shoot a handgun.

 

[Engine49guy]

Best is a rather vague term applied to firearms so perhaps better to replace the word "Best" with "Favorite"?

I do like early examples of all models, if you examine the no dash posted just above you will notice it has the early style large right side TM,
this feature is unique to the VERY early L frames in the AA*XXX serial range.
Its an insignificant item to most but enough to make me choose an early one over the later small L side TM guns, that and I want one to partner up with my early 586.
(note the large R side TM does return in the 686-5 but its laser engraved not rollstamped .

My favorite L frame 357 is probably the four inch seven shot 686-4+ , IMO its the high water mark in the 686 evolution.
Only gripes are the RB grip frame, ( prefer SB frames on 4" or longer revolvers although RB frame can be either style with conversion grips)

The other gripe is the rear site unit on the dash 4 is unique to that revision only which could make replacement units harder to source .
....BTW the dash 4 is also the end of the grooved tangs.

My other "Favorites" are the 686-5 Mountain Gun and very early snubs .

The Performance Center L comp and CS-1 get honorable mention although I have never owned either.

 

[CH4]

They're all good, but most will claim the -4+ is the king of the hill. It has all the old school charm with the modern updates including a 7 shot cylinder, while lacking the IL, MIM and frame mounted firing pin. Of the -4+ my favorite is the 2.5" because I strictly use mine for CCW.

 

[grip frame]

I prefer -3 to -5

-3 came with wood grips, square butt for most models,flash chrome hammers and trigger which wont rust and make more sense on a SS revolver. Also has all the engineering updates added over the years.

-4 was last of the pre MIM and is drilled and tapped and has the current extractor design.

-5 has MIM parts but no lock and I like the replaceable front sight post. Frame mounted firing pin is more durable.

 

[rubiranch]

For me it's the no dash 686 my late dad bought new Sept. 1981. Used it to teach both my sons how to shoot a handgun.

I just picked up this 4" 686 no dash today.
I also have a 6" 686 no dash.

The 6" has had 1000s ans 1000s go thru it and was used in competition shooting. Its my favorite pistol to shoot.

Both have had the modification done.



I also have this 7-shot 5" 1/2 lug 686-6.

Other than the lock is one really better than the other?

 

[fishwishin]

Very cool and informative thread. Thanks to the OP for posting it up.

 

[OLDSTER]

The 686-4, for reasons others have posted. However, any 686 is world class, so I wouldn't fret if I couldn't find a 2 through 4.

 

[wellthought1]

After reading through this thread, I'm glad I have a 686-4 4" even though it doesn't have the wood grips. It has rubber grips. Solid shooter but it's currently at S&W getting the hammer repaired. It was cocking back and moving the cylinder to the correct chamber but the hammer wouldn't stay cocked for single action shooting. I really hope they don't replace any parts with MIM parts.

 

[rubiranch]

Best is a rather vague term applied to firearms so perhaps better to replace the word "Best" with "Favorite"?

I do like early examples of all models, if you examine the no dash posted just above you will notice it has the early style large right side TM,
this feature is unique to the VERY early L frames in the AA*XXX serial range.
Its an insignificant item to most but enough to make me choose an early one over the later small L side TM guns, that and I want one to partner up with my early 586.
(note the large R side TM does return in the 686-5 but its laser engraved not rollstamped .

Thank you. I just keep on learning.

 

[BAM-BAM]

My 686/586s range from "no-dash" to "-4s"...........
My favorites are an early 4" no-dash that I had round-butted in the 80s and a 4" 586-4 round butt. Both wear Spegel extended boot grips...... I also like Pachmyer Professional grips on these guns

IMO the 4" L frame is the best utility/duty/general purpose revolver one can own..........