when does my powder measure lose accuracy

terry_tr6

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this my old much documented lee perfect powder measure.
today i needed a few 200 gr coated LSWC .45's to test in my new CMP 1911..

I had a tiny bit of 321 left in it's can and decided it would be fun to see just how far down the Lee would drop accurate measures.
well. after weighing 65 rounds, I FINALLY got one that just didn't quite match the line on my beam balance and stopped.

Not counting that last 4.9something, I had 23 grains of 231 left in the powder measure. and the next drop after that 4.9 drop was quite short.



I thought that was darn accurate as I had long lost sight of powder in the hopper (I have one of those "V"'s in it so i lose sight after it starts down the cone shape of the hopper0.
 
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I have one I use for some things. It's really a plastic-fantastic and inexpensive unit but in my experience it seems to work as good as anything. Which I find somewhat surprising. It is a bit of a leaker at times and attempts to rectify the issue either fail, or make it worse, but it's not the only measure that leaks with some powders.

I have wondered about how far I could go. Now I know.
 
Lee makes some very good products , the measure being one of them . The Brand Snobs will not hear of such heresy and stead fastly maintain only RCBS and Dillon will do .

When you loose sight of the powder and it will still drop accurately ... that's about as good as it gets . I've used a Lyman 55 since 1967 and I like to refill the hopper when it gets down to the 1/3 - 1/4 level in sight .
Nothing wrong with Lee stuff ... I started out with a Classic Loader and I bet I'm not the only one , half my bench is Lee red .
Gary
 
it has some issues with small ball. there is a little vinyl wiper on the rotating part that can need replacing and there is a fine line between the drum being too tight to move, and loose enough to let balls of powder get in it. best thing I did was add some little pieces of aluminum and JB weld to stiffen that stupid plastic bracket. 100% improvement in feel.
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As you found out and as mentioned, when the hopper gets down to 1/4 full
you might start getting +/- throw weights.

If your throw "Hangs up" or "cuts powder" it can also make different weight charge. I usually toss those loads back into the hopper, plus the next one, for one with a smooth throw and better load.

I eye ball for a +/- load but you can't really see a .2 powder difference in
most fine powders and are really just checking for a double charge.

Have fun,
 
Any moving mechanism can eventually wear or get crudded up. I recently replaced the adjustable parts of my prehistoric RCBS Uniflo. I had been using it for roughly 50 years and if finally starting getting a bit vague about pistol size charges.
 
I went thru thru the scale problem also. a set of powder scoops are good enough for me !
 
I went thru thru the scale problem also. a set of powder scoops are good enough for me !

When it is a full scoop (Say, 4.6 gr Bullseye) I'll scoop into the pan on my Ohaus, from there into the cases... Pop in a bullet and seat. Cuts down on squibs, powder-less or double-charges.;)

Actually, it is a pretty fast way to perform those reloading steps.

Cheers!

P.S. I have been known to trickle into the pan when it's a close load.
 
I do the same thing--the powder charge is more accurate that way and you can also check the oal of the complete bullet
 
POWDER MEASURES

Hmmm? Lots of answers here. :) For me, whether it be my Charge Master or Redding measure, I have always made it a habit of never getting past the halfway point, my PW shotgun presses the same. Just has always worked for me so no reason to change. I keep the Redding set up for 45 Colt, and will cycle it through a couple times if it has been sitting unused for a time. The Redding has never leaked that I know of and is Always right on. JMHO :)
Also. some time back I replaced ALL my hoppers with DRAM WORX glass ones- life is sweet:D
 
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Regardless of powder level in the 'hopper', I have a habit of tapping on the side after the upswing and after the downswing of the powder dump handle. It really seems to help with smaller charges. Makes sure the powder chamber is full from the hopper, then makes sure all the powder drops to the pan.
On small grain loads, I weigh every one after the dump. On larger dumps for a rifle, I only measure every few.
A tenth of a grain or two at 3.2 grains total is much different than a 10th of a grain at 25 or more grains total!
 
Using RCBS since the 70’s,( got a good deal) 2 cylinders as most have. Long departed Gentleman made the suggestion to weigh every 10th charge dropped by Any powder measure( for normal pistol loads). I weigh Every rifle charge.
 
I went thru thru the scale problem also. a set of powder scoops are good enough for me !
Scoops are actually a very good way to get accurate powder charges ... you have to practice and develop a consistent method but once you have the technique mastered ... the charges are consistent .
Scoops are also inexpensive . I use a powder scale and make my own from things found around house / loading bench .
And they are fairly safe ... you get to see everything ... powder fills scoop , level and pour into empty case ...you see the powder level in the case ... don't do it twice and you will be fine .

Just getting staring , on a tight budget ... make a scoop !

Gary
 
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A lot of guys run the dispenser wrong and complain of lousy results. Dump->fill->dump. Run it the other way and any vibration will settle more powder in the cylinder.
I used the Lee for a long time. I use a Lee Deluxe now.
 
Lee makes some very good products ...

Not that I have seen...reloading with cheapo equipment is wasting money, not saving it.

I got a RCBS little Dandy, RCBS Uniflow from the 1960s, maybe even older than that and 2 Dillons from the 1980s and 2 new style Dillon powder measures I have run for a few years on 40 year Dillon machines and never not 1 problem other than upkeep.
 
consistency is the secret. i like the fill, count 1,2, dump, count 1, 2 , all motions done in a quick firm motion so the fill step always takes the same amount of time and the fill and dump motions cause a bit of a bump. otherwise I couldn't ever be sure of how long it was in the fill position which i found to be important. but whatever works. consistency being the most important.

in my above test, every 5 grain drop till the last caused the beam balance on my RCBS to settle at the exact same spot. I know with varget, a short stick powder it can spot the difference of a stick or 2 so my dumps are real consistent if i can dump 65 that all read the same
 
The Lee Perfect Powder Measures work great. I've always kept at least one on hand.

I've given them to people getting started into handloading. Many of those have never felt the need for upgrade.

I still use one as a dedicated .223/5.56 powder measure. With you doing your part once set it dispenses as accurately as any I've used.

I own a half dozen or so Pro Auto Disc measures that I leave setup for my most commonly loaded handgun calibers.

I also have a 30+ year old RCBS Uniflow and a newer Lyman Brass Smith measure. Both of these are excellent measures. Are they more accurate than the $20 Lee PPM? Nope, but they are sturdier.

I'm color blind on reloading equipment. I use what works best for me.
 
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