When to adjust sights on a revolver?

Shooting from a rest shouldn't make much difference in POA-POI with a handgun if done correctly.
Some people make the mistake of resting the frame of the gun, or worse yet, the barrel on the support itself. That will definitely affect POA-POI as the gun will not recoil naturally. You should let your forearms rest on the support, not the gun itself. This will allow the gun to recoil naturally.
With a long gun, you can rest the forearm or front of the stock, not the barrel.

I've tried all the methods; I think this varies considerably from one shooter to another. Shooting technique and skill level has a lot to do with it as well. Resting the barrel is a particularly poor way of doing things. Resting the frame works okay as long as you have your hands on the stocks and don't allow any of the butt frame / stock area to touch the sandbag rest.

Learning from my mistakes, if I was to start over, I'd spend a lot of time and ammo learning to shoot well before I gave any thought to sight adjustment. If you can't shoot reasonably well, you're wasting tme fiddling with sight adjustment.
 
When to adjust the sights.....

When point-of-aim and point-of-impact are different.

True, mostly. For a duty/off duty/defensive handgun I too adjust to intended point of impact. I prefer 25 yards for this setting, since I think it is a good balance distance between very close in and distance shooting out to 50 yards. That said, I am not overly picky about it, as long as I have correct horizontal sight alignment. My EDC semi-auto pistols (S&W 6906 and Glock 26) are not elevation adjustable, and I have never missed it.

But 'mostly' is not always. In PPC competition most shooters want to hold at the neck (base of head) at 50 yards as it is easiest to discern and hold most precisely at that distance. The stock sights on a revolver will not allow this. so gunsmiths building up PPC revolvers add a sight rib which can be adjusted so this neck hold places the rounds in the x ring at 50 yards.

The early BoMar ribs have large and obvious enough screw heads to allow a quick rear sight adjustment on the line, so we always carried a screwdriver for this purpose. Later ribs, such as the Aristocrat, allowed the front sight to be moved via a sliding button to a pre-setting for 7, 15, 25 and 50 yards. Needless to say, these pre-set adjustable front sight ribs became predominant.

Early on with the L frames, S&W offered a version with a tall front sight designed to allow this neck hold at 50 yards in a leg match revolver. Since normal revolver sights did not allow this range, so this would be advantageous, or so I hoped. I got one of these models with that intent in mind. Unfortunately this coincided with so much more work in both my LE career (I was in admin by this time) and teaching career that something had to go, and it was PPC matches. I still have this revolver, with a lot of custom work in it, but unfortunately it never saw the heat of competition.

That exception aside, back to serious use. I have done a fair bit of instruction in defensive handgun use. One of the courses of fire I was mandated to do in the CA PC 832 class had a maximum distance of 15 yards, with a generous time allowance. It seemed too minimal, but given the time constraints of a one semester class combined with students who may have never picked up a handgun, and in retrospect it was a decent starting point to get shooters to before they later applied to LE and were sent to the basic academy.

One of my objectives was to show how well placed shots could be with no reliance on the rear sight, thus no adjustability. I had everyone (including me since I was demonstrating) cover their rear sight with tape. I wanted to demonstrate, and have my students experience, the effectiveness and efficiency of a flash front sight picture. One of the points I made was that the closer one was to their assailant(s), the more quickly they had to fire effectively. The students very quickly picked up on this, since all they had to do was concentrate on the front sight. Those who had some prior experience shooting were surprised to see how well they did with just the front sight. No one used the front sight until we went from 10 yards to 15 yards. By this time the habit was ingrained; the front sight was key to shooting accuracy.

The following semester we went into night shooting. Concentration on the front sight and acquiring a flash front sight picture became even more critical in low light.

So, in any discussion and analysis of sight adjustment/sight alignment, I submit the most critical element, if far enough distant to necessitate sight use, is concentration on the front sight, getting it set on center mass, then squeezing off the rounds
 
TL.DR version. Achieve precision first, then adjust for accuracy.
All of my guns end up with the rear sight a couple of clicks to the right. That's me.
 
Is more likely you will find the need to adjust the windage (on a zero wind day) to your particular way of shooting. For elevation, there is no way you can have one setting for every distance, so settle on one load and one distance and manage everything else with changing your aimpoint. Many people likes to aim 6 o' clock for a center hit. That will give you a margin for longer shots to still see your target while aiming.
Chief
 
My first 686 was adjusted a lot to get it where I wanted it. The only thing to avoid is once you do get it dialed in, don't get in the habit of blaming the sights when you are off.

My general rule is to ask a few questions before I mess with them (now that I zeroed)

1. Am I doing something wrong or different in how I am shooting?
2. Am I using different ammo than what I zeroed it for?
3. If I am using different ammo, is there substantial difference in velocity, grain weight, felt recoil, etc...?

If the answer to any of those questions is yes it may not be the sights.
 
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