Which 686 or 627 for target shooting?

[Kho]

I'm thinking about adding to my collection by getting another .357/.38 revolver for target shooting. At the moment I have a 4" GP100 that I use for that purpose - a good gun without a doubt but I'd like to see if I can do better. I had a 6" GP100 but sold it because I didn't like how it balanced in my hands.

I've been scouring the S&W site and doing lots of Google searches. The K38/M14 get mentioned a lot, and I'd like to get one, but that may take a while to see through to fruition. So for now I'm focusing on current production S&W models, 5" and 6" barrel lengths.

There seem to be a lot of different PC and non-PC 686 and 627 models and it's not clear if any particular model is better than the others. I'm hoping that someone on this excellent forum can steer me in the right direction, to at least narrow things down to a couple that I should look at.

Note that I reload so all rounds that I target shoot with are light loads.

 

[Muley Gil]

I would pick the one that fit my hand the best.

 

[Kho]

I would pick the one that fit my hand the best.

I can see there is a difference between the 686 and 627 models due to the L/N frame size difference, but will there be much difference between, say, all the 686 models?

 

[Kho]

OP didn't mention what type of target shooting. Competition or casual paper punching.
For many people and purposes, a K frame 38 special S&W is hard to beat. Many of them out there at often very good prices. Especially now that tacticool black plastic pistols are the hot item.
Another consideration is if you're planning to use an optic (scope or red dot). If so, one of the later models that are factory drilled and tapped makes that option quite simple.
This 67-3 was a $275 police trade-in. Cleaned it up, mounted red dot and used it yesterday to win a Hunter (field) pistol match.
Shot just fine at 25, 50, 75 and 100 yards.

Casual target shooting. I hadn't thought about a scope as I've been honing my skills with iron sights. Nice idea.

 

[johngalt]

I like the N frame grip size better.

 

[k22fan]

I found that at ranges near urban areas there are plenty of other shooters to keep me company without participating in matches. Now at the local range if I go alone I usually shoot alone. While I used to dream of being able to routinely shoot alone it got old fast. For that reason I suggest buying a target gun that will work well in whatever revolver friendly matches are held near you. Locally "revolver friendly" means no more than 6 rounds can be loaded into any hand gun. Without driving over 50 miles the matches that are available to me all involve timed drawing and shooting. That makes easy accurate double action the priority. A shorter trigger reach gives better leverage for double action. That makes a K or L frame easier to shoot accurately DA than an N frame. The second disadvantage to 8 shot N frames is that leaving empty chambers slows reloading because the cylinder has to be aligned to fire your six.

Your local ranges or circumstances might be different.

 

[Neumann]

The most accurate and best handling .357 Magnum I own is a Smith TRR8 (327). 8-shot, it can be used with or without moon clips. It has a 5 inch barrel with easily replaceable front sights. I replaced the standard gold bead with a red fiber optic for easy visibility under all kinds of light. The gold bead is great for acquisition, but can be confusing under indoor range lights.

It has a two-piece barrel, which must be periodically maintained by S&W. Since it is a PC model, the trigger and hammer are forged and the DA sear is pinned. Mine came from the factory 9.5# DA and 2.5# SA, with a non-adjustable (hence reliable) trigger stop.

The 5" 627 would probably be better handling than a 6" 686, which has a heavy full-length lug, compared to the tapered lug of the 627. I have a 4" 627 PRO, which is also a nice shooter.

 

[colt_saa]

For target shooting, I do like the Model 14/15 family of revolvers. In fact I have been working on a recent 4" Model 15 addition today to get sighted in this weekend.

While harder to find, the Heritage Series 6" Model 15s are extremely accurate and good looking at the same time.

All of my model 14/15 revolvers shoot Match HBWC ammunition. Some times my hand-loads but more often they shoot factory Match ammunition from Federal, Remington and Winchester.

If the target revolver must be a 357 Magnum, the 5" Performance Center model 627s are superb. They have been available in Stainless, Blackened Stainless and Pinto variations over the years.

The Scandium framed Model 327 TRR8 is a great choice especially for action matches where the lighter weight realy helps. Also the Dan Wesson style tensioned barrel provides high end accuracy with most any projectile and load. These have been offered in both black and two tobe configurations

With a proper choice of grips, the difference in the frames sizes between K and N is not a very big deal.

You never completed your Forum user information, so we do not know where you are located. If you are in the South Florida area, I would be happy to give you some trigger time on the various firearms to help aid in your decision making process

 

[Kho]

Thanks to all who responded. All very useful info. I'll post my purchase when I make a final decision.

@Neumann - why does a two-piece barrel require periodic maintenance by S&W?

 

[k22fan]

[...] @Neumann - why does a two-piece barrel require periodic maintenance by S&W?

I may have to apologize to Neumann for presuming I can answer for him but I think he did not critically proof read that sentence. Two piece barrels do not require periodic maintenance from S&W. The thin sheet metal blast shield that protects the bottom of aluminum top straps from hot gas escaping out the barrel cylinder gap does. Some have fallen out. While S&W and owners like to emphasis the minute amount of scandium alloyed into the aluminum for strengthen it is still aluminum.

I do not know if his TRR8's cylinder is titanium or darkened stainless steel but before the price of titanium went up S&W used titanium cylinders to lower weight. Titanium cylinders are a maintenance consideration. While they are virtually immune to corrosion hot gas will erode pits into their front face and throats if their protective clear coat is worn off. Consequently you should not clean them with ordinary bronze bristle bore brushes and you have to carefully select cleaning solvents. I would not want a titanium cylinder in a target revolver.

 

[Mack_C85]

I have a 6" barrelled Model 19 .357 that I really like:

It is very accurate, and fun to shoot.

When I want to shoot cheap, I take out it's twin brother Model 17 .22 cal:

Practice transfers back and forth between them very nicely.

BTW - In case you think I put the same gun in twice, look at the front site, you'll see the orange ramp, a feature I would love to have on the other one.

 

[Kho]

I have a 6" barrelled Model 19 .357 that I really like:

It is very accurate, and fun to shoot.

When I want to shoot cheap, I take out it's twin brother Model 17 .22 cal:

Practice transfers back and forth between them very nicely.

BTW - In case you think I put the same gun in twice, look at the front site, you'll see the orange ramp, a feature I would love to have on the other one.

Sweet guns. I rarely see nice old revolvers at my LGS, and when they do come in they get snapped up before I have a chance at them. Frustrating.