Which brass cases for 40s&w reloads???

[NotObvious]

Is there much of a difference between Speer, Win, Fed, or ...etc. when reloading for 40S&W?

I am using 180gr Berry's FP plated bullets and normally use mixed headstamps, but, I'd like to keep things sorted going forward.

Thoughts on sticking with SPEER/blazer brass vs FC?

Everything gets run through a full length sizer/decapper and then once more through the Gr-X die before final polish.

[Glocks are not the only barrels that "smile" the brass]

 

[427mach1]

I use Berry's in my 40 also. They are great for cheap plinking rounds and as such, I use mixed range brass most of the time. My plinking rounds are no where near max loads and I'm not out for extreme precision shooting. I say use whatcha got.

 

[scooter123]

I'm another who says use that you have. In my case the bulk of my 40 caliber brass is Federal because I spent at least 3 years shooting Federal Champion and saving that brass before I started reloading. At last count I had about 4000 cases saved up, so I probably have enough 40 caliber brass to last me the rest of my life.

 

[growr]

I use them all....no need to sort by brand. After reloading them I check them all in my Dillon case gauge...I have about 1 in several thousand as a reject....Must be my Dillon dies are doing their job.

Randy

 

[Duster340]

Yep, same here. I use them all. And shoot lots of the Berrys 180gr PFP & PRS plated bullets. Also use a lot of the Rainier 165 gr PFP's. My M&P 40 loves em all!

 

[Engineer1911]

I shoot range pickup brass, load cast lead bullets made from bullets mined from the dirt berm at the out door range (unknown hardness), lubed with Engineer's home-made custom bullet lube loaded hot enough to cycle my 40 S&W semi-autos.

The following activities are NOT done: sort brass, clean primer pockets, measure case length, trim cases, weigh any powder charges after the measure is set-up, check OAL after seater die is set-up, or weigh empty brass.

 

[427mach1]

The following activities are NOT done: sort brass, clean primer pockets, measure case length, trim cases, weigh any powder charges after the measure is set-up, check OAL after seater die is set-up, or weigh empty brass.

And you call yourself an engineer - you are not nearly OCD enough!

 

[Granddad]

I've used all of those named and can't say I have any strong preference. My big issue with brass, especially 40 S&W and 357 mag, is any that is nickel-plated. They always seem to develop cracks after a few reloads.

 

[fredj338]

For full power loads, I avoid federal. In my exp with multiple calibers, it seems a Bit soft.

 

[Engineer1911]

And you call yourself an engineer - you are not nearly OCD enough!

Checked the tire pressure on the Mach1 this morning, correct to ±0.5 psi? These frosty mornings must be tough on the tire gauge.

 

[rg1]

I prefer Winchester 40 S&W brass. It's consistent, good primer pockets, and bullet tension in the case is perfect. If I were to buy once fired brass I'd try to find all Winchester rather than mixed.

 

[A.O.]

I too use the berry's bullets, those and Montana gold..All my brass is from original factory rounds, I don't do range brass. All the different ones you have listed and lots of PMC.. I do like the PMC but I use em all and don't sort them. I sorted them for a while and it just didn't seem to make any difference.. so I just run mixed.
They all go through my Glock 22 and then through my Lee dies and all work perfect!

 

[Kframerbluvr]

Mixed brass for me - Federal, Winchester, Speer, Remington. Glock 22,23 and 27 eat it all. No huge variation in thickness that I have noticed unlike 9mm brass...

 

[dswancutt]

Speer, Blazer and Federal are all owned by the same parent corporation and on the most current brass, they all have the same font on the headstamps. So they pretty much are the same brass.
The only trouble I have had is with an occasional R-P brass having thin case walls. Not a problem with cast bullets, if I recall correctly, I had some jacketed loads that didn't have enough tension to hold the bullet. I just culled them. I can't recall if I ever had this problem with any plated bullets.

 

[J. W.]

My .40 brass is all range pick up from my departments range. It's usually Speer, but I've accumulated brass from various brands. I've noticed not discernible difference and don't go out of my way to separate them.


Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk

 

[zeke]

Am actually preferring Fed/win brass, not much experience with Speer. In other calibers Speer has been good thick brass. Just because some brands are from same parent company, does not mean they are the same brass.

Am always initially separating brass by head stamp, force of habit that can lead to consistent hand loads.

Am always sure to cull rem brass from the rest, as the case walls in their 40/45 brass are noticeably thinner and less ductile than most. While perhaps less of a concern using 180 grain bullets, setback in a forty loaded up can be/is a major concern.

Learned this the hard way in a BHP, which has an unusually strong recoil spring, and blew a mag out the bottom. Now make sure all fortys are sized all the way down, and use lee undersize die. Yes it is an extra step.

 

[John R]

The only brass I've had any trouble with is A-MERC, and not only in the 40.

 

[mtgianni]

A merc is a leverite there or recycle only IMO.