Which "new to me" 686?

[ANT]

I have my eye set on a used 686. I've come across two versions for the same price.

The first is a no dash version with "M". It's in excellent shape with roughly 1000 rounds through her. Bore is excellent, finish looks good but there is a slight bit of play in the cylinder (nothing too major). The serial number is in the AAK6xxx range. (Could anyone help me with the date of Manufacture on this unit?)

The second is a newer version. I believe a 686-6 or 7 with an internal lock and I guess the MIM parts. This one is in "as-new" condition with only 100 rounds through it. It looks spotless.

After reading some of the threads here, I'm leaning towards the original no dash version because of the no IL, FMFP and MIM parts.

I guess my question is: Am I out to lunch passing up a virtually new gun to get an older version? If you had a choice which one would you get?

I know the old versus new has been touched on before but I appreciate any opinions from all you learned folk.

 

[skeezix]

Welcome to the Forum.

"AAK6xxx range" Probably shipped in late 1982.

While both guns should make good shooters, I'd choose the older gun. With only a thousand rounds fired, there should be nothing wrong with it. And it'll be easier to sell later on if you need to.

 

[Old Navy]

Go for newer gun and install the "Plug" sold here by forum member, it's a 10 minute instal if you are handy with screwdriver and tweezer. If not it's 30 minutes like old fart with arthritic hands.

 

[cowboy117]

Depends on whether you're going to carry or not.If not,the newer gun is the best IMHO.What is FMFP?The older gun WILL be easier to sell later on.

 

[HEADKNOCKER]

The early gun will be a square butt & the newer one a round butt for what it's worth.. Of Course you can get convertion grips for any K/L frame..
I too would be looking harder at the older model with forged parts & no MIM parts or internal lock.. Also the older gun has hammer mounted firing pin were the newer one has the frame mounted floating pin = FMFP , That's not a bad thing just noteing the difference..
I have a 4" M686 made in 1982 myself..
Both would make great shooters, condition means alot on used guns..
I'm sure one is talking louder than the other..
Gary/Hk

 

[JamesArthur60]

FWIW, I always feel older is better. Especially an older built S&W 686. This one might be a crap shoot. Go with your gut feeling.

 

[18DAI]

Go with the older 686. If you don't like it, you won't be stuck with it. Regards 18DAI.

 

[ab4ka]

I just got my first 686, and it's a 686-7 (+ model w/7rd cylinder) and I can't imagine anything being much better as it's awesome The older ones doe seem to be more in demand if you should want to ever move it, though.

 

[tgwillard]

I recently obtained a no dash (AARXXX) with no M. So I sent it to S&W for the modification and also paid to have it drilled and tapped. If you plan on using a red dot or a scope, then figure in the cost of a drill and tap if the no dash does not have that. Just look at the bottom of the strap and you will see the three holes if it has been drilled and tapped, just like the newer one.

 

[qballwill]

I would go for the older one also. I would rather have no lock hole to plug.

 

[cptdco]

My first handgun was a no-dash 686. I personally would not trade it for a new one dispite the 10s of thousands of rounds I've put through it over the last 25 years. At a thousand rounds, that earlier 686 you're looking at isn't even broken in yet.

 

[stevieboy]

There are a lot of threads on this forum about the lock, MIM parts, etc. and I won't revisit them here. Suffice it to say that I have absolutely no concern about new vs. old, lock vs. no-lock, MIM vs. forged parts. I have pre-lock and post-lock guns and they're all great.

One of my favorites is my 686-6. It's equipped with MIM parts and a lock. It's also an amazingly accurate gun with a great trigger. I bought it new and have had it for three years and by my rough estimate I've put way over 2500 rounds through it. I've fired everything from .38 special 148 gr. wadcutters right up through .357 125gr JHPs, and the gun has performed flawlessly with all of them.

I don't think that the newness of the gun or its lock and MIM parts have particularly affected its resale value, at least not based on what I see on Gunbroker or on other used gun sites. Not that I care because I have no interest in selling it.

Now, it may be that you ultimately decide on the no-dash. You should be able to buy it for considerably less than a new gun and, if it's in good condition, it will undoubtedly provide you with excellent service. But, don't be deterred from buying a new gun simply because it's got MIM parts or a lock.

 

[exfebee]

I would also go with the "no-Dash" one. I carried my 686 (no-dash) for a load of years & put over 30,000 rounds through it. It has the "M" stamp where it was sent back, but i just rather the older one. S&W has a life time warrantee on these anyway. Carl....

 

[deuterij]

I faced a similar quandary a few months back. I even went into an Academy Sporting Goods store and very nearly plunked down $700 for a new 686. But then I started reading about the IL and decided I did not want that. I like my mechanical stuff as simple as can be. Also I was striving to buy back the 1980s era 686 I used to have. In your shoes I'd go for the old one, especially if it is in good shape and cheaper. That is what I eventually did and am very happy.

 

[ANT]

Went with the no Dash...

Thanks to all for their valued opinions. There were some very valid points brought up for both versions but in the end I went with my gut.

I went with the older one because one of the main reasons I've developed the bug for wheel guns after a decade of shooting semi's, is it's elegant simplicity.

- I like the firing pin on the hammer
- I prefer no IL (plug just covers up the mechanism, which is still inside)
- I prefer the look of the original cylinder release (<-- Picky)
- I prefer the thought of forged vs. injection molded (although modern MIM offers something like 98% density)
- and like many have said, if I ever decided I wanted a newer version I could probably move the no dash easier and find newer version as opposed to the other way around.

Now it just needs a polish...

 

[Wee Hooker]

tgwillard brings up a good point. If you think you might ever want to add a scope or dot to your gun, the newer one comes drilled and tapped. Round count is somewhat irrelevant at those low #'s. The L frame is a robust gun.
All that said, I still prefer the older versions. I kept only one of 5, 686's that once graced my safe. It's a no dash.

 

[exfebee]

Good for you ANT, in thinking about the "no dash" . The 686-4 is where you start with the gun being Drilled/Tapped for a scope. The 686-5 seems to start the MIM stuff. I have a new 686-6 snubby with the IL which I've done the "Plug" work on it, but when i find a good clean 686-4 i'm gona sell this one.
Carl