White lettering in blueing

snafu177

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I picked up a 14-4 with the lettering painted white, has anyone seen this before and know of a way to remove without damaging the finish?
Came with original box and looks unfired so I did not want to pass on it.
Thanks
IMG_1436_zpsf8e0e41f.jpg
 
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This is a response from someone who's advice I'd take
especially heed the wifes toothbrush part

Toothbrush. Fine and clean. Toothpastes have abrasives in them.
Acetone or a good powder solvent.
Patience.
Use your wife's toothbrush. They both taste terrible.
Go slow and let it soak.

"Stabbing" with the bristles removes stubborn spots that brushing won't. Choke up on the handle, put your finger on back of the brush's head, and make like a woodpecker.
 
Actually I did that to my model 12 when I first got it. Ready for this....
With white out. It's still there.
I've gotten smarter since then.... A little
fuzzy
 
I used to do this to my Glock mags with quick dry white out :-D

Some nail polish remover will do the trick, use a nylon brush :-D

Give it some elbow grease *not much though* and she'll be clean as a whistle in 3 minutes.

* accidentally removed the white dots on a pistol with solvent once in under 30 seconds* and that was factory :-p
 
ATF will probably do the job, it also works on magic marker.
 
Thanks for all the advice, I will get to it as soon as I round up some supply's and let you know the out come.
Thanks again
 
I removed some gold that was used on this one. Used finger nail polish remover old fashion kind, acetone based. Applied it with a Qtip let it set for a minute or two then used stiff nylon brush, working it in all directions. Wipe it with cotton ball with more polish remover, when it gets soaked then change to new cotton ball repeat. If some of it gets left behind and the brush is not working any longer use a old fashion pointed tooth pick. With a little time and patients it will all be gone. Here is a before and after pic to show the results. Just wipe it down with some oil after it is dry or use some Renaissance Wax and done.
Hope this helps many good people here on the forum passed this along in a past thread that I got info. from.


Thanks RB
 

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Is it paint or wax?

In days of old, to help weatherproof our revolvers, we used to wax them, and the white stuff collected in all the nooks and crannies on the revolver, hence "highlighting" the letters and emblems. Most of us just left it there, and we'd add to it the next time we waxed. I used plain old everyday automotive Turtlewax on those days, and it helps greatly preventing a lot of rusting on the surface of the revolver, in highly humid areas of the country. It seems getting in and out of an air conditioned patrol car caused moisture to condense on the surface anything metal, and your revolver was the least protected item. Anyway, the wax method was a common practice anywhere along the Gulf Coast in them days of old. That's why I prefer stainless steel guns these days.
 
A white grease pencil works if you want it back in. I have used it on some old mauser rifles but never on a smith.
 
I always take care to specify a solvent-proof toothbrush.
Not all toothbrushes are solvent proof.
Lacquer thinner or Acetone will dissolve a non-solvent proof brush very fast, while it's in your hand.
 
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