Who Has Actually Rechambered A .32

AJ

US Veteran
Joined
Apr 30, 2003
Messages
12,058
Reaction score
28,865
Location
East of Stick Marsh, Fla.
I have an mechanically perfect S&W 30-1, but it is cosmetically challenged. I am seriously considering rechambering it from .32 S&W Long to .32 H&R Magnum. Have checked the spec's and it will fit. Since this is a steel not alloy frame that should not be an issue. Has anyone done this?
 
Register to hide this ad
Yes. I have, No problems. I have also re chambered a newer long window Alloy J frame 32 H&R cylinder to 327 mag. Only problem is recoil and noise. i also did some for member Lewel and he hasn't reported any problems.

The SAMMI pressure for the 32 H&R is 21,000psi. the max pressure for 38 special +P is 22,000psi and as the 32 and 38 have the same radius to the center of the chambers, the 32 has .021 more outside chamber wall. The stop notch does line up with the chamber in the 6 shot 32s but that thicker outside wall covers that. They now make 357 J frames and I do not care how many times or how you heat treat it, your not going to make a 4140-4160 cylinder 20% stronger to cover the pressure increase to 36,000psi of the magnum. I have looked at the spec sheets. Now they even make TI J frame 357 cylinders and while TI is strong it does not actually equal a 4140 cylinder for strength. Close, but no cigar.
 
Last edited:
BTW

If you will notice the best heat treated 4140 has
1.8 times the tensile strength
1.7 times the yield strength and
1.8 times the shear modulus
of the best TI

With a minimum quench and temper it is still stronger than the best TI

Only in a completely dead soft annealed stat does it become slightly weaker

In other words if a TI cylinder will handle a round even an old steel cylinder will handle it. I would not risk it with pre model cylinders, but the I frames have to short of cylinder window for the H&R anyway

Annealed 4140
Tensile strength of 110,000psi
Yield Strength of 90 KSI

4140 just Quenched & Tempered:

Typical Tensile Strength: 153 KSI

Typical Yield Strength: 131 KSI


4140 normalized, hardened and tempered for Ultimate properties

Tensile Strength,  229900 psi

Tensile Strength, Yield 195100 psi

Elongation at Break 11 %

Modulus of Elasticity 29700 ksi

Bulk Modulus 23200 ksi

Poissons Ratio 0.29

Shear Modulus 11600 ksi

Izod Impact 6.64 ft-lb


The physical properties of grade 23 Ti 6Al 4V ELI

Tensile strength 125000 psi

Yield strength 115000 psi

Poisson’s ratio 0.342

Elastic modulus 16510 ksi

Shear modulus 6380 ksi

Elongation at break 15%
 
Last edited:
I think I understand some of that. I took metalshop in High School for four years. Mostly foundry, tin bending welding and lathe work. I kind of figured that S&W stopped making the 342 and went to the Airlite .357. Looks to me they just reamed the chambers and charged another $400 or so for the expense of a 1/10 of an inch in each chamber. If they could do that way not turn a steel J Frame Model 30-1 into a .32 H&R Magnum.Be a more useful defense gun that way.
 
Last edited:
I first did a model 30 into a H&R then bought a J frame 431 in 32 H&R, then found an 2nd 32 H&R cylinder on Ebay and got it. The second cylinder I reamed to 327 mag and first stuck it in the 431, then I got an 642 which is an alloy hammerless +P 38, took the barrel off, fitted a 32 barrel and then the 327 cylinder.

The only complaint I have is that shooting the 327 in an alloy J frame it takes longer to get back on target than with the H&R

I am considering putting the 327 cylinder and a barrel on my all stainless 640-1 and convert the 642 back to a 38.

The 32H&R J frames are slight superior to J frame 38 specials in my opinion.
 
I first did a model 30 into a H&R then bought a J frame 431 in 32 H&R, then found an 2nd 32 H&R cylinder on Ebay and got it. The second cylinder I reamed to 327 mag and first stuck it in the 431, then I got an 642 which is an alloy hammerless +P 38, took the barrel off, fitted a 32 barrel and then the 327 cylinder.

The only complaint I have is that shooting the 327 in an alloy J frame it takes longer to get back on target than with the H&R

I am considering putting the 327 cylinder and a barrel on my all stainless 640-1 and convert the 642 back to a 38.

The 32H&R J frames are slight superior to J frame 38 specials in my opinion.


I had thought of the .327 Mag in the 30-1. However, have not looked at the specs yet,
 
The cylinders on the J frames of that era are about 1.39 long and the new ones are 1.594. The I frames are even shorter. A 327 mag OAL is 1.46. You get to add .055 for the rim.

An old cylinder of 1.39 plus .055 rim gives 1.445 If you have .006 B/C gap that works out to 1.461 and the cylinder should turn. LOL You could of course ream one to 327 and just seat for a OAL that works.

As 32H&R ammo is hard to find anyway and the 32s are great reloader's cartridges, just use H&R cases and stick 5 gr of unique or Green Dot behind a 90-100gr bullet, which is a max load in one of My Speer manuals.
 
Yes. I have, No problems. I have also re chambered a newer long window Alloy J frame 32 H&R cylinder to 327 mag. Only problem is recoil and noise. i also did some for member Lewel and he hasn't reported any problems.

When you rechamber a gun, are you just re-cutting, or are you putting in a chamber insert?
 
99% of the time when you rechamber your using a reamer to either lengthen the chamber or sometimes enlarge it. In this case we are talking about cutting the step where chamber becomes throat another .155" deeper so the longer H&R case will fit before the step stops it.

I have elarged chambers. For examples: made a K frame 22 cylinders into 327 mag cylinders by enlarging the chamber and throat to fit. I have done most of my 45 colt cylinders in a similar manner by first reaming 44 mag cylinders to .452 then reaming the chamber to 45 colt

Very rarely do you make a chamber smaller by using inserts. But, I have also made inserts that fit a K frame 357 cylinder, then reamed the inserts to 22 lr in order to get a near impossible to find 22lr cylinder that fits a model 53 22 Jet.

I also have a S&W 500 mag cylinder on my bench I have reamed to .625 and am going to make inserts for it so I can ream it to 30 Herrett

Rifles are a different story. You can often ream a rifle chamber for a larger case of the same caliber. A 222 can become a 223, a 30-06 could be reamed to 300 win mag if the action is long enough and you are able to modify the bolt face.
 
Last edited:
I have seen some wild rechambering's. 22LR to 22 Mag, every other chamber! and early M-4 Survival rifles from 22LR to 22 Mag.

Before 221 Rem became a rifle round, a few friends took 222's and 223's and set the chambers back about 1 inch and re-reamed to make very handy little varminters!

I have a Rem 700 with a take off Winchester Coyote 223 1:14 barrel by Schnider. The threads cut off, then threaded for Remington and chambered to 22BR. The barrel is about 27" Long and shoots 50 grain poly tips in the zeros very consistently. I have printed a number of sub 1" Groups at 500+ yards with this gun.

Ivan
 
Rechambered

Here is the gun that S&W should have made!
TIw76PN.jpg

A 16-4 rechambered to 327 Mag! You are able to shoot all the 32 cal rounds. and it is a tack driver with the 327s
jcelect
 
I've also rechambered 30-1s to 32 H&R. It's so easy you don't even need to bother with a drill press. Just use a T-handle. You can rent the reamer on-line.

The chamber keeps the reamer straight because it goes so far in the chamber. Just use caution not to cant the reamer while turning, hold the cylinder in one hand, turn the reamer with the other, use lots of lubricant, and in 20 minutes you're all done. I even did one w/o removing the cyl from the gun. The owner was in a hurry.

Never had any problems on any of those I've done.

Could not tell any difference in accuracy when shooting 32 Long in any of my converted guns.

Brush out the chambers before switching back to 32 H&R; no different than shooting 38 spl in a 357.
 
The reamers have a pilot that fit the throat and in the case of the 32 long to 32 H&R you have the cutter portion 7/8 of an inch in the old chamber. You would really have to press sideways on the reamer to hog out any material from the original chamber. A tap handle that fits the reamer, some light cutting oil, some carb cleaner and a rag is about all you actually need.
 
Well, the deed is done. Muley Gil loaned a reamer to me and it came the other day. Today had the time and friend came over to supervise/help. Looked at video and took Muley Gil's advice. Lots of oil and turn clockwise and never reverse. Started slow and easy stopping quite a few times to see how the depth was. When we got close put the cylinder back in the 30-1 to see if it would function and/or drag. Once the case seated flush and would dry fire in double it was on to the next chamber. Next step is to load up some .32 H&R's to try on the range Friday. Will post a report then. Thanks, Gil!!

AJ
 
excellent, enjoy your bigger bang

I did! Went to the range this morning with two different loadings of Bullseye. First up was a 93 grain HBWC with 2.8 grains if Bullseye--Shot well nice group all double action. The second was a 100 grain SWC with 3.0 grains of Bullseye -- Shot well also and was a bit stouter then the previous loading. Was using a 25 yard repair center for a hand gun target, shot at 7 yards. All stayed in the black and as I stated all were shot double action. The rechambering went well! Glad I did it.
 
As I said before. I encourage people to do some of their own work on revolvers. Most of it really isn't that complicated or technical. A few tools, some patience and with good information and thinking there is a lot the home gunsmith can do.

The time isn't coming where it will be hard to find a competent revolver smith. It is here.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top