Sorry about that, Alk8944. I wasn't aware of the staking operation, and to my eye (and my son's) it appeared the bushing had a raised lip at the edge. I understand now that "lip" is instead the staked aluminum frame.
who to fix it?
- Thread starter KWK-12
- Start date
To follow up: I contacted S&W, describing the model and the problem. To my surprise, they sent a paid mailer, so off it went to them. I've just received it back, also on their nickel, saying the parts needed to fix it are no longer available. I'm disappointed, but I can't complain about how they approached this.
It looks as if I'm in the market for a nice, older 10. Sadly, a very nice 10-5 sold at the nearest store about the same time I shipped my 12-3 off to S&W. The search begins...
It looks as if I'm in the market for a nice, older 10. Sadly, a very nice 10-5 sold at the nearest store about the same time I shipped my 12-3 off to S&W. The search begins...
Tell S&W the hammer nose bushings are available at Midway and Numrich. They can borrow my staking tool.
s&w hammer nose bushing - MidwayUSA
s&w hammer nose bushing - MidwayUSA
The problem with the factory repair is they are almost helpless by exercising no options other than to put in new parts. Your 12-3 is far from lost with such a simple problem. Take it to a few local smiths and get their feedback. I'm sure one of them can fix it, it's not rocket science.
Or do as I suggested above in my post, drive it back in place. If the problem reoccurs after a couple of thousand rounds, drive it back in again.
Tjohns42
Member
If you're still interested in sending it to a smith and having an action job done at the same time look up Nelson Ford in Phoenix, AZ. His action jobs are A+ and I'm sure he can fix your issue as well. He specializes in S&Ws and Colts. Last time I was in there he was working on a set of revolvers for a guy in New England somewhere so I know he does out of town business.
If worse comes to pass, I believe it would be possible to make a slightly thinker bushing. It is not a complicated piece of metal.
Is this pertinent????
It seems I saw a video that Speer made that showed that a primer normally backs out up firing, then as the main recoil drives the casing back, the primer is reseated.
Does anybody know anything about this? I suppose it would be easy to check out because the primer seated deep would be flush with the surface after being reseated.
It seems I saw a video that Speer made that showed that a primer normally backs out up firing, then as the main recoil drives the casing back, the primer is reseated.
Does anybody know anything about this? I suppose it would be easy to check out because the primer seated deep would be flush with the surface after being reseated.
Recoil doesn't drive the casing back.
You recall correctly. That's exactly what happens:
1. It works just that way with normal power loadings.
2. With very high power/pressure loads we've learned to look for indicators like the machining marks from recoil shield imprinted on the primer and even cratered primers where the primer actually flows back into the firing pin bushing hole.
3. Low power/pressure loads can leave primers high.
4. To test this phenomenon, fire a primer in an empty case, it will bind up the cyl every time. To make blanks or wax bullet loads the flash hole in the primer pocket must be drilled oversize to prevent binding. The primer has enough pressure to drive out the primer like normal, but there's no opposite back pressure from a powder charge to drive the case back to re-seat the primer.
5. A light weight gun exacerbates the issue because the whole gun recoils more which mitigates the back pressure that re-seats the primer. Similar to the way too lightly holding a semi auto causes the slide to malfunction by not fully ejecting the empty case. There's not enough resistance to the recoil for the slide spring to operate correctly.
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While I haven't fired it yet, my revolver appears to be repaired. At a local gun shop, I was told there was an old gunsmith about 70 miles south of me who still worked on revolvers. He's in his mid 80s and told me he used to shoot in some S&W team decades ago. He had a contact at S&W and shamed them into making the part to do the fix. It's come back with a perfectly flush hammer nose bushing made especially for it. I'm looking forward to spring to try it.
On the down side, the fellow told me my barrel has a slight constriction under the stamp and may lead more than some...
On the down side, the fellow told me my barrel has a slight constriction under the stamp and may lead more than some...
When Armorer said recoil does not drive the casing back he was correct. Case is driving back by the same explosive force that drives the bullet forward. It then slams into the RECOIL shield and that creates the recoil
I believe.....
...that the cartridge is held firm in the chamber until the pressure drops and the case metal springs back, then the cartridge case is free to recoil
.
...that the cartridge is held firm in the chamber until the pressure drops and the case metal springs back, then the cartridge case is free to recoil
george_lehr
Member
KWK-12,
You must be very happy and relieved. With regard to the down side, just load jacketed, plated or coated bullets and you shouldn't have a leading problem.
George
You must be very happy and relieved. With regard to the down side, just load jacketed, plated or coated bullets and you shouldn't have a leading problem.
George
George, my favorite load in this light revolver was the Missouri Bullet wadcutter over a wee charge of IMR Red, in other words, an old style target load. These are plastic coated, and it's good to hear that is often enough protection from leading.
Now where, 3 years ago, did I put those aftermarket spring kits I'd bought for this revolver? That trigger still needs some work...
Karl
Now where, 3 years ago, did I put those aftermarket spring kits I'd bought for this revolver? That trigger still needs some work...
Karl
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