Why buy a beat up S&W with compromised finish?

brianfede

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Admittedly, I am a S&W newbie. Recently purchase a Nightguard, 327, Model 586 no dash and a Model 19-3. I have noticed that some of the beat up revolvers listed for sale on this forum sell pretty quickly. I'm mostly referring to the blued revolvers where the bluing has been compromised. Are these bought just for shooters? or are guys sending them to a shop to get re-blued? The reason I ask is that I have a chance to purchase a beat up Model 27-2 which has a lot of wear to the point the bluing has completely come off the firearm. Some light pitting. I'm tempted to buy this but not sure where to get it re-blued or if that is even necessary if i really just want it as a shooter.
 
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Why buy a mechanically sound revolver with cosmetic issues?

Because they just don't make them like that anymore, LOL!!

This S&W 12 was missing the original stocks and showed holster wear. It went home with me for $200.00.
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This K 22 was a former LE evidence gun, the case number is visible on the frame.
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Everybody needs a snubbie, this pair cost me $60.00 and some change.
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I would refinish it at s&w but it's up to you. Right now it's a shooter. But it could be a looker too.
 
Not every gun has to be a pretty collectible.

If the price is good enough and it's going to continue to be used and carried, why not?

I personally don't mind guns with some character from carry use. Those that are rusted up beyond a light surface rust or guns having a flaking nickel I pass on regardless.

These are a couple shooters I've come across lately:
20150409_132722 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr
20150526_121250 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

The Chiefs Special is so tight, it's not even broken in.

The model 10 is used just enough to slick it up nicely.

They Chiefs Special in particular came pretty ugly, but a good clean up did it some good.

The trick is to get something mechanically sound or easily fixable without having to throw parts at it. Non matching grips give some bargaining power, as well.

Dumb luck helps, too. Kinda like finding that special lady, they often come when you're not looking.

This one was acquired at a shooter grade price.
20140912_082849 by Slick_Rick77, on Flickr

No box, papers, or tools...but I don't care about that stuff.

I'm just a rookie that happens to frequent the local shops a bit.

The veterans here can certainly give you a tip or two.
 
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Neglect of the exterior may indicate neglect of the internals, so you have to be careful. If the bore and chambers are clean and it cycles and times correctly you may be getting a bargain; and if the finish really bothers you the factory will polish and reblue (nickel) it for about $300.

Let's see the photos! :)
 
although I love the look of a perfect finish,, my guns are shooters. Some missing bluing will not effect accuracy. Plus, I like to tinker and if a gun isn't perfect or 100% original I can make it just what I want and not have to worry about the value.
 
Finish wear doesn't mean beat up. It just mean the gun was holstered or carried a lot. Most of my guns are used and have finish wear. They are cheaper to buy and still shoot the same as any that are in prestiegne condition. I have them in varying degrees of wear. From minor to a Colt that has maybe 30% of bluing left. I don't bother re finishing them
 
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If a good deal presented itself on a S&W with minimal finish, and it was what I wanted for a carry gun, or other hard use gun, as long as it was mechanically fine I would buy. While I appreciate nice looking guns, I am primarily a shooter. (Except for the antiques and I Frames).
 
If the beat up gun is a good shooter, you don't have to be concerned about any further abuse you may give it by holster wear or whatever.

Funny to me how opinions vary about any refinishing jobs. Some say any such work would affect the value of the gun. Best to get opinions before doing anything unless you just don't care. In my opinion, I don't care about original boxes and paperwork. That just makes sellers think they can charge more for the gun. You can't shoot the box, oh wait, you CAN shoot the box but then you'd put a lot of holes in it and you'd reduce the value dramatically.
 
New gips on the 27-2, 3 1/2 inch

27 28-2.jpg


The two N frames are not pristine. They were loved before I got them. That is just fine too.
It took a long time to find a 27-2 at a fair price, I think it was about $800. Some holster wear and I prefer it to a higher dash in nicer condition. Just my preference. The 28-2 was a steal. I will not even say how much.

I have my guns to use mostly. I try and keep them nice, wear to finish is just character though. Holsters and friction cause finish wear.

If I want a looker I can print out a photo and lock it up in my safe.

I do have some duplicates NIB but not many.
So now what? They sit until I croak and someone else will someday use them or sell them.
I never had a gun refinished.
Well just the wood was.
 
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If it was a hard to find model with a less than perfect finish it would not stop me from buying it as long as it was mechanically sound.
 
While I don't have any revolvers that I would consider non-shooters, I do appreciate a good finish on them.

A few years ago I located a Model 19 with 2.5 inch barrel and sent it back to Smith and Wesson for a Combat Action Package, which includes a bead blast finish. It came back with a bead blast style finish and a very smooth action job and I have been very pleased with it.

Had the same treatment done on a 2 inch Model 64, trade in from Brinks, with a bobbed hammer.

While neither has the original finish and that may have hurt, what some consider, the collector value both are great shooters and look nice.

I also have others that still retain the original finish that I have never entertained the thought of redoing.
 
I guess I look at this question a little differently than most of the responders. Honestly, if the gun is relatively common and pretty sad looking then I'm not much interested. I'm not very likely to put $200 or so in a sorry looking shooter, even if it is good mechanical condition. It will never appreciate much in value. I would be far more inclined to add another $200-$300 to the initial $200 and get something really nice that I can be proud to own, look at and shoot. And if maintained properly it will probably increase in value over time.

With all that being said, I might be interested in a really cheap shooter grade if I needed a tool box gun or one to rattle around under the seat of my truck.
 
These are not S&W revolvers, but they were a steal

A Beretta 70 .32 a.c.p. and a Beretta 71 .22 LR. These two cost me $25.00.
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Two Rugers, a P95dc and a P89.
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Astra A75L without a magazine. I ordered two mags from Numrich for it.
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These guns were built from a box of parts, except the Astra which was intact but the slide was frozen. I owned a Beretta .32 already, so I was familiar with those guns and had fooled with my Brother's Ruger P85 enough to figure out what parts made up the guns.
 
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K-22 'Masterpiece- shooter grade

This is my K-22. Wrong stocks, much finish wear, Tyler trigger shoe, but I bought it reasonably, and it shoots like a dream! Locks up so tight, I was worried at first. Timing is spot on, and single and double action are silky. And a 5 digit serial #.
 

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I have a 17-5 and a 19-5, the finish is really nice but not perfect, the 19 has some light pitting on the trigger guard. I was all set to send them to S&W for combat package and refinishing. After I called them, I find out that I need to send them in and in 7 weeks they will call me back upon inspection of the firearms and charge me for the services we agree upon. 7 MONTHS after that I will get them shipped back. So I decided to take them to my local gunsmith and just get the internals are up to snuff and shoot them as is for now.
 
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