nicky4968
Member
I've broken one of each.
Frame-mounted continued to work.
Frame-mounted continued to work.
Why is the frame mounted firing pin disliked?
- Thread starter DeanD
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Watchdog
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Mr. Skelton was a big fan of Ruger single action revolvers, which had the frame mounted firing pin.
I have my doubts there is much difference in the effectiveness of either system when correctly engineered. Don't forget the number of guns that forum members have had to send back to the factory because of lights hits!!
The hammer mounted firing pin work great for over a hundred years. The frame mounted one did not start well. Remember that the first N frames had an area where the hammer was angled and not in the frame. (Hard to describe, but ugly) The frame was then lengthened to cover that sore.
The frame one is much easier to change when it breaks. Once set up to function reliably, I have not had an issue with the frame mounted firing pin. I have shot several thousand rounds through my 627-2 without issue, but it has a C&S firing pin that is a .015 longer than the original. A second 627-2 still has the original and it works fine too.
I prefer the hammer mounted one though. Just sayin!
The hammer mounted firing pin work great for over a hundred years. The frame mounted one did not start well. Remember that the first N frames had an area where the hammer was angled and not in the frame. (Hard to describe, but ugly) The frame was then lengthened to cover that sore.
The frame one is much easier to change when it breaks. Once set up to function reliably, I have not had an issue with the frame mounted firing pin. I have shot several thousand rounds through my 627-2 without issue, but it has a C&S firing pin that is a .015 longer than the original. A second 627-2 still has the original and it works fine too.
I prefer the hammer mounted one though. Just sayin!
Gee whats that sticking off the end of the hammer of my Colt Model P?? lt wont wiggle either...
0ne thing l miss about the hammer mounted firing pins on S&W revolvers is not being able to look down the barrel on a cocked empty chamber to view barrel/cyl alignment.
As for durability l have almost 5 thousand rds thru a 629 Magnum Hunter. MIM, IL, Frame firing pin too... No failures..
Will ck back @10 thou
0ne thing l miss about the hammer mounted firing pins on S&W revolvers is not being able to look down the barrel on a cocked empty chamber to view barrel/cyl alignment.
As for durability l have almost 5 thousand rds thru a 629 Magnum Hunter. MIM, IL, Frame firing pin too... No failures..
Will ck back @10 thou
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To me, the lines of the current revolvers with the frame mounted FP are not as appealing-they do not have that nice sweeping concave arch where the hammer lives. Strictly from a cosmetic standpoint, the guns seem to have lost some of their graceful lines.
From a function standpoint, in over 35 years of shooting hammer nose FP S&W's, I have never had a problem. But, I feel confident that frame mounted FP guns are also as reliable. If S&W could have not changed the shape of the frame (and get rid of the lock) I think I could warm up to a modern S&W wheel gun with a frame mounted FP.
From a function standpoint, in over 35 years of shooting hammer nose FP S&W's, I have never had a problem. But, I feel confident that frame mounted FP guns are also as reliable. If S&W could have not changed the shape of the frame (and get rid of the lock) I think I could warm up to a modern S&W wheel gun with a frame mounted FP.
Perhaps the dislike for hammer mounted FPs stems from the era of the SAA Colts? Yes, I've managed to break a FP in my SAA Colt while dry firing it. Actually, it wasn't the FP but the retainer rod/pin that holds the FP in the hammer. That retainer rod/pin is just a slim drill rod (well, that's what I used as a replacement). The inertia of the FP flying forward and being stopped by the small rod was just too much for the rod to contain. Lesson learned, I don't dry fire the SAA Colts without dummy cartridges anymore.
That being said.........I've never managed to break a FP on my duty S&W M15. And, I dry fired that revolver alot without dummy cartridges.
Anyway, perhaps the dislike stems from memories of the past SAA Colt? And, maybe people just think that NEW is better.
Whatever. I trust my S&W revolvers and I don't see dry firing as a big problem.
Aloha, Mark
That being said.........I've never managed to break a FP on my duty S&W M15. And, I dry fired that revolver alot without dummy cartridges.
Anyway, perhaps the dislike stems from memories of the past SAA Colt? And, maybe people just think that NEW is better.
Whatever. I trust my S&W revolvers and I don't see dry firing as a big problem.
Aloha, Mark
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nevada duke
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From shooting DA revolvers for over 50 years, I think both systems are pretty durable. I've had one hammer mounted firing pin break, and that was on 1920's era Colt Police Positive in 32 long. It broke while dry firing, I must have thought it was a Smith. Plus side was I got to learn about the old Colt V-spring action. I don't dry fire the old Colts anymore.
Best regards, Nevada duke
Best regards, Nevada duke
5Wire
Member
That was sort of my point earlier, the S&W hammer block setup requires the frame mounted floating firing pin. Gun is safer, function not diminished. What's not to like?
My Buds Aussi 10-8 broke the hammer nose as well, but during live fire at the range.
The hammer nose broke twice on my Model 19-3 as well.
Kind of made me nervous about my revolvers after that as self defense weapons... my current carry gun is a model 19, Glock 19 that is...
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DonD
Member
That's a myth. When I was trying to get my first .500 Mag, I ended up speaking to Herb Belin, revolver manager and high up in S&W. He said dry fire all you want other than obsessives who frequently sit for a couple hours in front of TV continually pulling the trigger. Don
Rob41
Member
It's funny Don, I'm aware of this too yet still feel like I'm doing something wrong when I dry fire. Old habits and training are hard to break I guess.
jhcii
US Veteran
I prefer the spurred hammer from the 50s on 29s but today the 29-10 is the brand new product.
I actually do not dry fire too much, just a few times to get the feel of it and then I take the gun to the range. At the range the 29-10s I have do their job spectacular-super-nova great. I'd buy a classic in forged parts from the 70s if it hasn't been abused but if I intended to shoot straight without worry of malfunction or timing or back-turning on a cylinder latch to a fired chamber I'd just get a 29-10 today.
I have the machine engraved 4" and 6.5" Anniversary edition 1956-2006 29-10s. They shoot better than every single 29 I've owned since the 70s brand new.
To me the 29 needs as much strength to hold together in today's world shooting regular factory 180 gr JSPs. The earlier models before 29-10 have been very disappointing and unlike Dirty Harry's experience on film.
If you shoot a lot of .44 Magnum get a 29-10 and put all the earlier ones in your safe to adore.
I actually do not dry fire too much, just a few times to get the feel of it and then I take the gun to the range. At the range the 29-10s I have do their job spectacular-super-nova great. I'd buy a classic in forged parts from the 70s if it hasn't been abused but if I intended to shoot straight without worry of malfunction or timing or back-turning on a cylinder latch to a fired chamber I'd just get a 29-10 today.
I have the machine engraved 4" and 6.5" Anniversary edition 1956-2006 29-10s. They shoot better than every single 29 I've owned since the 70s brand new.
To me the 29 needs as much strength to hold together in today's world shooting regular factory 180 gr JSPs. The earlier models before 29-10 have been very disappointing and unlike Dirty Harry's experience on film.
If you shoot a lot of .44 Magnum get a 29-10 and put all the earlier ones in your safe to adore.
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Freischütz
Member
The FDL Wondersight doesn't fit the frames with frame mounted firing pins.
