Why is there a rear sight set screw?

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New to S&Ws so I was a bit surprised when I removed the rear sight on my new Shield. It was harder to move than any of my Glock sights. Moreover, there isn't really any kind of detent for the screw to tap into. Looks like it just provides more friction. So what's the point? There is no way the sight is going to move without it.

PS- Having to remove the rear sight to get to the striker block safety is asinine.:mad:
 
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I've often wondered that myself. It's like they hired the Samsonite Gorilla to push those sights on!

I think the reason there's a screw is because there's a hole. It's "dealers' choice" whether you put it back in or not. When I swapped the sights on my M&P's I bought a six-pack of screws from SSS and replaced them for no other reason than I wanted to fill the hole...since on at least one occasion I boogered up the old screw trying to get it out...:o Then I discovered heat - they come out easier while hot!
 
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I think you need to use heat or cold (freezer) to 1st remove the loc-tite then use a size hex key to loosen the screw prior drift or move it via brass punch or sight mover. I remember reading it on here when I planned to install the XS-Big Dot, but haven't got the time to work on it. Good luck!
 
My screw wasn't really that hard to remove. But the dovetail fit on the sight itself is very tight. Fortunately I've got a couple of different sight pushers so I found one that works but the dovetail friction alone is higher than on other sights I've removed so I don't see the point of the screw.
 
...PS- Having to remove the rear sight to get to the striker block safety is asinine.:mad:

Agreed. Supposedly the M&P designers put it under the rear sight so that it would be farther away and less susceptible to fouling coming from the chamber.
 
Agreed. Supposedly the M&P designers put it under the rear sight so that it would be farther away and less susceptible to fouling coming from the chamber.

That's what they told us in one of my M&P pistol armorer recert classes. ;)

Bear in mind that S&W has had many years experience with 2 difference designs of plastic pistols, both of which have had the safety plungers located at the front of the striker/FP channel.

I don't see the problem with the safety plunger being located toward the rear (where it is less exposed to fouling and debris from the chamber, via the breech face hole, during live-fire), myself, but as an armorer I'm not inclined to frequently remove the safety plunger, anyway.

On the other hand, now that the safety plunger is located close to the slide's opening cut at the rear of the striker channel, it's probably more susceptible to potential owner/user contamination which could result from improper cleaning/lubrication practices. (Just like getting unwanted exposure to solvents, CLP's, cleaners or oils into the striker channel via improper and/or inattentive cleaning practices.)

One nice change the engineers have made is to revise the safety plunger's spring plate to have a nipple onto which the safety plunger spring can be affixed. Makes it a lot easier to install the plunger spring & spring plate ... without the spring plate living up to it's earlier name in the armorer classes, which was the "UFO". :eek:

Having 1 (or even 2) set screws isn't uncommon among rear sight bases, since there's no way to predict whether the normal tolerances of either a particular sight base or slide dovetail cut is going to be snug & tight enough to resist lateral drift under recoil forces. The set screw usually just snugs down on bare metal underneath the sight base.

In some 3rd gen models there was also an oval-shaped spring plate that covered the top of the ejector depressor plunger and the firing safety plunger, and the rear sight base's set screw would just snug down onto the spring plate.
 
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Agreed. Supposedly the M&P designers put it under the rear sight so that it would be farther away and less susceptible to fouling coming from the chamber.

It's not so much what it's under, it's what's required to remove it. The plunger on a Glock is under solid slide metal, but you can remove it simply by removing the sliding backplate.

I'd be fine with it forward, back or wherever, just don't make me mess up my sight alignment to get to it. Overall I've found the S&W to be much harder to work on.
 
I'd be fine with it forward, back or wherever, just don't make me mess up my sight alignment to get to it.
Why do you need to get to it? I can't think of a single maintenance action that requires access to this area except removing the block itself or replacing the sight.

If you're replacing the sight, it's a non-issue because you'll need to sight that in anyway.

If you're replacing the block, why? I've never heard of one going "bad" and it doesn't need maintenance. For the regular user, there's simply no reason to access this part of the gun.

Further, the rear sight on my M&P 45 was very easy to move. Once the set screw was loosened, it could be moved by hand. So, not all sights are super tough to move. Further, on the Shield, you're not supposed to move the rear sight anyway.
 
I can't think of a single maintenance action that requires access to this area except removing the block itself or replacing the sight.

Meh, everyone is different. Would you rather (a) have a clean safety channel, (b) have a dirty safety channel, or (c) say who cares I never clean my guns. Some people don't care. I like being able to clean things. With a Glock you can reove the safety and trigger without all the nonsense associated with the S&W. I still like shooting and carrying my S&W, just wish they were more user friendly (e.g no slave pins, rear sight removal or sear block ballet required to fully strip).
 
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Dove tail cuts vary. A set screw allows for a larger variance without having to fit each sight to a particular slide.

As for ease of disassembly, Glocks may be easier, Sigs are worse. All are fine guns and in 20+ yrs working on/off the range I haven't seen or heard of an SB and/or firing pin block failure due to fouling in that area.

Not saying it isn't possible but that's where solvent, Q-tips, and compressed air are your friend.

Just my .02 cents...YMMV.
 
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