Why the Cylinder Drag Line?

[Bigfifty]

Can anybody answer the question of why almost every S&W revolver develops a drag line on the cylinder ??
To be honest, I have never seen a S&W without the dreaded "Drag Line", except on one that has never been turned.
You'd think S&W would have figured this after over 150 years of producing revolvers.
Sure detracts from the value when trying to sell or trade.

Whats the reason????

 

[jcelect]

Cylinder stop!

Not "almost every S&W revolver" but ALL S&W revolvers have this line! If the line isn't there, the gun will not function properly! Take an empty revolver, hold it so you can see thru the side gap at the bottom of the cylinder, watch this gap as you pull the trigger back real slow! You will see the cylinder stop drop down on the slightest pull of the trigger. Continue pulling the trigger and the cylinder will start to rotate and the cylinder stop will pop back up rubbing against the cylinder! The cylinder will continue to rotate until this stop drops into the cylinder stop notch in the rear of the cylinder just before the hammer falls! I hope this answers your question?
jcelect

 

[Laketime]

A properly formed thin drag line was how you rated a properly made Smith revolver back in the day.Its only been the last 15 years or so with collectors looking for NIB older guns that this is even an issue for some.Even un fired guns may have this line due to the owner making sure everything is on par before tucking it away for years.

 

[505Gibbs]

And in case you think the engineers at S&W are alone in this 'line' - look at Colt revolvers and Rugers. Its inherent in the basic design of a revolver.

 

[murphydog]

The factory test-fires every revolver prior to shipment. so the drag mark will always be present (if not very visible). Even opening and closing the action will likely cause it to appear.

There are other ways to determine if a gun has been fired since leaving the factory, so S & W collectors as a rule tend not to stress out about the turn line too much. Not having one would be like collecting new cars and requesting the manufacturer lift the car wherever it needed to go, and not start the engine or drive it (off the boat, car transporter, in the dealer parking lot) - not likely.

 

[Muss Muggins]

Opening and closing the cylinder actually does more to establish the drag line than firing the revolver, because the cylinder stop remains up during the process, unlike pulling the trigger, and the cylinder gets dragged along the stop to align the charge holes when the action is closed.

Doesn't hurt the value at all for me, unless it's so heavy as to indicate potential abuse . . .

 

[flundertaker]

factory installed wear indicator

 

[Pef]

Simple mechanics of the design, that's all.

There's no question a revolver could be designed so there is no "drag line." Such a design would require a cylinder stop that recesses when the latch is pushed forward to release the cylinder, and stays recessed until the cylinder is locked back into place, and also very precise timing mechanism to engage the stop at just the exact moment.

Probably would add several hundred dollars to the price of the gun and added complexity and more possibilities for failure. In other words, a complex solution to a non-problem.

So I'll take the drag line.

 

[OLDSTER]

"turn-line", "drag-line", is like tire wear. If you drive you get tire wear. If the cylinder in any revolver is turned for any reason, you get this line. I've never heard it referred to as the "dreaded drag line"

 

[dr. K]

It's usually the first and best formed "character mark" on any revolver... like holster wear or a smoother trigger pull, it's just a sign of a tool being used (and functioning) correctly.

 

[shawn mccarver]

A drag line is evidence of proper functioning of the revolver. An S&W without a drag line should cause suspicion, especially if there are other signs of firing beyond normal factory test firing. If a seller tries to hide the inevitable drag line, it should make one wonder what else is being hid.

This has been answered so many times, and I have posted the letter from D.B. Wesson himself on this very issue so many time that I will nkt bore you it again. If interested, it can be found in any number of my posts.

It is common prctice for the "cheeseburger fragment spewing fat guy behind the counter" at the gun show or the "LGS" to point out everything that can be pointed out when de-valuing your gun for trade-in purposes. That is how the guy makes his money, by preying on folks who do not know about such matters.

Don't let that guy push you around.

See Post 8 in this thread for the Wesson letter concerning the drag line.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1961-1980/284536-drag-line.html

 

[BigBill]

Let's say the latch is dragging waiting to lock in the slot for the lockup. In easy understandable terms. It's ok.

Is the latch too high?
Can it be trimmed? Don't know.

But I never seen a Smith cylinder yet that locks up tight like a colt.

 

[Arik]

I like racing stripes on a revolver!

 

[nagantino]

A number guys at the range have shown me their custom built revolvers for 1500 and 480 competitions. They are all Smith and Wesson, not sure about the model, tuned by a German gunsmith called Merkel. Besides looking fantastic and feeling smooth, they have a fine sand blasted finish on the cylinder that comes only to the cylinder drag Mark. It effectively hides the drag line

 

[Alk8944]

Read the letter by Doug Wesson in the thread linked by Shawnmccarver, it is post #8. This is the best answer about the drag line I have ever seen.

Perfectly normal and inherent in the design. S&W designed the "Hand Ejector" action to work, not be aesthetically pleasing to collectors at some future date!

 

[Rick_A]

But I never seen a Smith cylinder yet that locks up tight like a colt.

That's by design. The S&W trigger system is more tolerant to regular wear and it makes no difference to any practical degree.

 

[SW Model 19 Guy]

Opening and closing the cylinder actually does more to establish the drag line than firing the revolver, because the cylinder stop remains up during the process, unlike pulling the trigger, and the cylinder gets dragged along the stop to align the charge holes when the action is closed.

Doesn't hurt the value at all for me, unless it's so heavy as to indicate potential abuse . . .

I agree with this. On of the things I do to help reduce the drag line effect on the cylinder is to close the cylinder with a charge hole and forcing cone lined up as close as possible thus reducing the amount of cylinder turning required to lock the it.

 

[OKFC05]

There's no question a revolver could be designed so there is no "drag line." Such a design would require a cylinder stop that recesses when the latch is pushed forward to release the cylinder, and stays recessed until the cylinder is locked back into place, and also very precise timing mechanism to engage the stop at just the exact moment.

Actually it is not possible to design a real revolver this way unless you make the impossible requirement that the cylinder stop have no inertia and infinite speed. What you would get in a real gun would be horrilble skipping (failing to lock the cylinder) unless you cocked it very very slowly in single action only.

Since the cylinder stop DOES have inertia and the spring can only move it so fast, it must have time to reach the bottom of the notch as the cylinder turns.

Firing revolvers rapid double action in competition, I like to lengthen the ramps and assure the timing gets the hand started down as soon as possible for a firm landing in the notches, not just catching the top edge of the notch and eventually chipping and ruining the cylinder.

A clear, even turn line on a well used gun is evidence of a reliable revolver.

 

[ginzo]

A clear, even turn line on a well used gun is evidence of a reliable revolver.

^^^THIS^^^

 

[ken158]

There is nothing "dreaded" about a cylinder line on a S&W by anyone that understands how a revolver is engineered to operate. If it is not there, then you do have a problem.