Winchester 190 Gunsmithing Q

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Hey All, so I scored a free 190, because it FTFs every 8-10 rounds or so. I tightened the barrel nut, as the barrel was loose. There's no more visible gap between the receiver and barrel. Problem is, it continues to misfire.

So I plan on field-stripping the rifle, scrubbing the chamber and bore, check for a broken firing-pin, lubricate and a new mainspring. Am I forgetting anything ? Thank You kindly !
 
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I had the same issue back in the summer and did all the fixes at the same time which solved the FTF issue. Those autos get very dirty and a good cleaning out of 50 year old crud works wonders. The barrel tightening is imperative for proper operation. Several plastic parts within that could be an issue.
 
Did you remember to use blue Loctite on the barrel nut?

It will loosen again if you forgot.

Getting the recoil spring back into the receiver can be some fun.

Use a piece of wire or coat hanger wire. Cut it long enough to go into the hole

and protrude maybe four inches. Slide the spring down the wire until it is close enough to stay put then remove wire and place the bolt plunger into the spring. Then replace the bolt into the receiver.

Of course this is after a complete clean and lube of the action.

I thought that this might help when it is time to reassemble.

Mine still runs good almost fifty years after purchase.

Bruce
 
Back in the day, my brother and I both had 190s and neither was very reliable right out of the box. We started swapping out parts between the two guns and got to the point where the performance of both had improved, but never to 100%. They weren't entirely 190s, but the 190s made by Winchester for Sears Roebuck. I don't remember what happened to them, probably both of us traded them off. That was around the mid-1960s.
 
Scrub out the conical shaped chamber shape of the bbl breech.
It often traps fouling and even lead in there and each time the bolt slams shut, the matching shape of the bolt face itself smashes anything that is in there into that cone shaped wall.

It doesn't take a whole lot of build up before the bolt itself is 'standing off' from the actual breech face by that build up.

The rifle will still drop the hammer, you hear the 'click',,but the firing pin (should not) be able to reach the cartridge rim all the way because of the design (the breech being slightly open). But will often leave a very light FP mark on the round.

Some rifles with some wear or sloppy fit to the parts will fire with the breech partially open. You will know it too,,as the case may blow out at the unsupported base and gas & debris flys out the ejection port.

Sometimes that bbl breech cone shape is so heavily imbedded with fouling & some flakes of lead that you have to scrap & pick it off of the metal to get it clean again.
The matching shapes of the bbl breech and bolt face do a good job of packing the stuff together in there.
 
These are dirty rifles but can tolerate some crud and still run fine.

I use a sharpened chopstick to get into the tight areas or a BBQ skewer as they won't scratch the metal.

As far as ammo preference it runs good with CCI mini mags.

I'm really surprised that the plastic parts have lasted so many years.

Bruce
 
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