WLP - Rem 2½ primers, are they magnum primers? The 44 test

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For many years I've been perplexed by the labeling & description (actually lack of description) of Winchester (WLP) & Remington's (2½) large pistol primers (LPP).

Since I started reloading as a teenager I've always used CCI primers & rarely ever deviated until the recent crises when forced to. However about ten years ago I ran into a squib problem using AA#9 in a 45 Colt cartridge load ignited with CCI-300 primers. I ultimately found WLPs solved that problem.

AA#9 Squibs in 45 Colt cases

Those WLPs, which I still have some of, are labelled "for standard or magnum pistol loads".

Flash forward to the current primer shortage period & I've had to add some Remington & Winchester LPPs to keep my stash fed (got while the getting was good) as CCI LPPs are not to be found.

The new bricks of WLP & (2½)s I just bought do not have any description/statement on them, one way or the other, as to what type of primers they are, standard or magnum.

Since they only make the one type of LPP what are we to surmise?

Recently in a Handloader (#346) magazine article, in their question & answer section Bullets & Brass, someone wrote that he had the same problem I just outlined above, squibs with AA#9 in 45 Colts, asking Brian Pearce for help.

Brian told the reader that the WLPs he was using didn't have the ignition energy of the Remington 2-1/2 primer that the powder manufacturer (Western/Hodgdon/Accurate) tested the load with because the Rem 2½ "is a magnum primer" & he should use a primer with more energy like the CCI-300 or Fed-150 but a magnum primer like CCI-350 & FED-155 would be better.

WTH!! :eek:

This is the opposite of what I previously found, that the WLP was better than the CCI-300 with this combination in igniting the powder consistently!?

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So I decided to run a little comparison test of my own since the current situation finds me in possession of all the needed major primer manufacturers' LPPs.

There's endless combinations you could come up with for testing, some better or worse than others, but I decided on using 20.0grs of Alliant 2400 powder with Hornady 240gr XTPs in (previously used) Starline 44 Magnum cases fired from my S&W 629-6 Classic with a 5" barrel & recorded with my LabRadar chronograph at an indoor range.

Reason for using 2400 powder: any ball/spherical powders would have required only a magnum primer be used with them & using standard primers with them would be meaningless & possibly unsafe. 20gr of 2400 is a full load. Some manuals list 19grs as max. & others 21gr.

For years now Alliant/Speer has stated that their currently published load data for 2400 should only be used with a regular/standard primer, like CCI-300, & that magnum primers would cause excessive pressure if used with that data. (Please, let's not go down that road & argue this point again.) Thus using 20grs gives a little leeway in the pressure department over a higher charge.

The primers: CCI-300 & FED-150 (both "standard load"), CCI-350 & FED-155 (both "magnum load"), and the "un-defined" WIN-WLP & Remington 2½ primers, both from new stock.

As I was finishing up priming the prepped S-L brass, keeping each brand of primed brass in marked zip bags as I went, I realized that as I swiped my finger tip over each freshly seated primer this batch of brass had generously deep primer pockets & gave me the idea to try loading some CCI-200 LRP (large rifle primers, standard power) primers, just to see if they would seat below flush.

To my surprise they were fine so I included them too figuring they'd be a nice addition to the test, just for ha-ha's. :p

Keep in mind this combination is NOT suggested as LRPs are taller than LPPs & could be a hazard if not seated below flush. This is just a one-off test with these, & the rounds were chambered one at a time for firing in this test, which gave some unexpected numbers.

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I've also included some chrono numbers comparing the .430" HDY 240gr XTP to Zero's 240gr JSP with an otherwise identical load combination in the 5" 629. Surprising what a difference a bullet style makes. (FYI: these Zero 240gr bullets come from the manufacturer sized "fat" at .4312" which I resize down to .4302" in a Lee Push-Thru sizer.)

Additionally I included a couple of comparisons of data using an identical load combination in the 5" M629 -vs- the 2¾" M69.

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Summary: The CCI-300 & FED-150 standard primers tested essentially the same (1319mv -vs- 1322mv) but the FED-155 lacked performance as a magnum primer & couldn't better them with its 1322mv.

In the battle of the "un-defined" the WLP was clearly more "magnum like" (1343mv) than the Rem 2½ which grossly under-performed (1315mv) as a "supposedly" magnum primer.

I thought the CCI-200 LRP would be more "magnum-like" considering what its regular job is but the 1344mv & worst in test ES of 78 was a little disappointing.

The winner was the CCI-350 with an average 1354mv & an ES of 9.

The Rem 2½ also had a good ES of 11 but as mentioned the average MV was lower than expected.

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That's all I've got. No doubt under different circumstances the numbers could be different but that's what I got on a given day with my setup.

Don't shoot the messenger. ;)

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Primer comparisons - (click charts for a larger view)
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HDY 240gr XTP -vs- Zero 240gr JSP; CCI-300 & CCI-350
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2¾" M69 -vs- 5" M629; CCI-300 & CCI-350



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The primers: Federal wins the award for "Most Wasteful Packaging"
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- the bagged & labelled participants -
(the "X" on the label is just to let me know it's a partial pack)
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WLP: the old & the new
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M629 Classic, 5" bbl. w/unfluted cylinder
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M69, Combat Magnum, 2¾" bbl.
- Bullitt: the Limited-Edition background -
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Years ago tested the Fed 150 against the Rem 2 1/2 because had bought some Rem's. Simiiarly, the Remingtons gave slower velocitys in 45 acp 200 grain target loads. When using them up, very slightly increased the powder charge to compensate.

While Mr. Pearce is my favorite handloading writer, he is not infallible. Recently he made some inaccurate statements on Starlines 45 plus p brass, which he later corrected.
 
I've seen little velocity difference in any handgun primers, standard or magnum, small pistol or large pistol. If availablity is good, I'll always go with CCIs, only because they've worked well for me since the '60s.

I guess I've used about everything out there (except foreign primers.) I have found some accuracy differences, but I've never fired enough groups side-by-side to call the differences fact and if I tried other batches of the same primers, results might have been different anyway.

I think much of this may be nothing more than worrying about insignificant factors.
 
Since the Winchester company main powder is a "Ball type"
I would think that is is made up with components that would help
light up this style of powder and have never had any f/f with any of my loads.

This is the first year that I bought any Remington primers, for my pistols & revolvers.
I do like the small package that they come in, compared to the Federal boxs.
 
Nice test and good information. I have used CCI SP and SPM, Winchester SP and LP primers. No problems with either brand and I agree, given Winchester's extensive use of ball type powders, their use of a "hotter" primer does not surprise me.
 
Thanks for this information, very interesting.
I’m curious, in each test series, how many shots are you firing to establish the velocity average?
Thanks again.

After you've been chronographing quite a bit for many years, you can often accurately predict the velocity figures, but it's still a good idea to chronograph a few rounds for verification.

If you're using an entirely new load with different bullet, different bullet weight, new powder, etc., it's best to run ten or so rounds over the chronograph just to make sure of your figures. That's really not enough to verify that a load is consistently accurate, but it's enough for a velocity average.
 
After you've been chronographing quite a bit for many years, you can often accurately predict the velocity figures, but it's still a good idea to chronograph a few rounds for verification.

If you're using an entirely new load with different bullet, different bullet weight, new powder, etc., it's best to run ten or so rounds over the chronograph just to make sure of your figures. That's really not enough to verify that a load is consistently accurate, but it's enough for a velocity average.

Thank you. The main reason I ask is because of the ES. When I see a low ES like 9, it makes me wonder the sample size. 10 shots with an ES of 9 would be pretty stellar in my experience.
 
Thank you. The main reason I ask is because of the ES. When I see a low ES like 9, it makes me wonder the sample size. 10 shots with an ES of 9 would be pretty stellar in my experience.

Don't start chasing ES or SD numbers. This has become a fad in recent years. Many fail to understand the numbers are an indication of consistency only, not accuracy. There are many other factors that make an accurate load. An accurate load may have low numbers, but don't count on it. If you get really wild disparate figures, the load will likely not be accurate.

The very best accuracy indicator is group size, actually several group sizes. I haven't looked at ES or SD numbers in years, but I can develop accurate loads, even if it takes some work.

If all you want are low numbers, make up a compressed load in a bottleneck rifle cartridge. You'll get incredibly low numbers, in fact, several of them might be identical. You might have an accurate load, or you might not.

Measure your groups first, then look at your ES and SD numbers if you must. Good luck-
 
Don't start chasing ES or SD numbers. This has become a fad in recent years. Many fail to understand the numbers are an indication of consistency only, not accuracy. There are many other factors that make an accurate load. An accurate load may have low numbers, but don't count on it. If you get really wild disparate figures, the load will likely not be accurate.

The very best accuracy indicator is group size, actually several group sizes. I haven't looked at ES or SD numbers in years, but I can develop accurate loads, even if it takes some work.

If all you want are low numbers, make up a compressed load in a bottleneck rifle cartridge. You'll get incredibly low numbers, in fact, several of them might be identical. You might have an accurate load, or you might not.

Measure your groups first, then look at your ES and SD numbers if you must. Good luck-

I completely agree. I've used whatever primers are in stock, and have always found an accurate load. Alot depends on if you have an accurate gun. Some just shoot better than others. I've got alot of Large Pistol Mag primers. I use them for everything. I do know Unique burns alot cleaner with them, and I've had great accuracy in my 45 Colt and 44 Ruger's.
 
I didn't mean that offensively; just didn't want you to waste time looking for a good load.


Thank you and I do appreciate your comments. I understand accuracy trumps ES. But I load and chrono a good amount of .44 loads. 2400 is a favorite, and I have a dwindling supply of the old WLP and a large fresh supply of cci 300, so OPs data is pertinent to my interests. Just trying to understand his useful data as best I can.

I have always suspected, but as of yet never tested myself, that 2400 would perform slightly better velocity-wise with a magnum primer. OPs data seems to confirm that.
 
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Thank you and I do appreciate your comments. I understand accuracy trumps ES. But I load and chrono a good amount of .44 loads. 2400 is a favorite, and I have a dwindling supply of the old WLP and a large fresh supply of cci 300, so OPs data is pertinent to my interests. Just trying to understand his useful data as best I can.

I have always suspected, but as of yet never tested myself, that 2400 would perform slightly better velocity-wise with a magnum primer. OPs data seems to confirm that.

I often try a magnum primer and a standard one with higher performance loads. If there is no difference in accuracy or the difference is slight at best, I'll go with the primer I have the most of. I think you'll see little or no difference in accuracy or velocity with either primer and #2400 loads, or at least that's been my experience. A twenty fps velocity difference is really no difference.

I tried some 296 loads about fifteen or so years ago in the .357 Magnum with 160 grain cast SWC , the H&G #51, the original .357 Magnum bullet. I'd have to dig out my notes, but 25 yard groups with a magnum primer were around an inch smaller than those with a standard primer. Offhand, I can't recall the brand of primers I used to get these results, but I used the same load with every American-made small pistol primer then available.

296 isn't as useful as #2400. It has a lot of flash and blast and offers a few fps more velocity than #2400, but the mentioned drawbacks plus having to use near-max loads make #2400 more versatile and more pleasant for all uses. However, both powders will deliver the same accuracy. I think what you can say for upper performance .44 Special and .44 Magnum loads applies equally to .357 loads.
 
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I don't get hung up on ES much either. It's noteworthy & can help point to other issues but like you guys I have loads that shoot/group above my expectations that don't have beautiful ESs.

On new loads I like to shoot (10) of each charge weight the first time out, if economics allows.

For this test I shot (6) of each of the seven primers in question. More would have been nice, of course, but with my other involved testing I was limited on the XTPs on-hand & I like doing as much related testing as I can in the same outing with the same components.

Got lots of the Zero's but the Hornadys are much better manufactured bullets which of course you pay for.

I'm not a real stickler on everything numbers but I do like running tests that answer "what if" questions that come up.

I too find 2400 more versatile which is why my W296/H110 hasn't gotten used up yet. :p

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Primer related, last year I felt compelled to do a SPP -vs- SRP test in 9x19 since, at the time, CCI-500 were harder to find than CCI-400, just to confirm what was already suspected but was worth a look-see . :)

Power Pistol &
LongShot charge weights were: 6.4, 6.7 & 7.0grs.
&
AA#7 was 8.4, 8.7 & 9.0grs.
Zero 125gr JHP
COAL: 1.125"

The "fps" readings in the chart's graph below are the average of the (3) different incremental charge weights, for each powder, (10) rounds each, for a total of (30) rounds per (6) graph bars.

Primer comparison, SPP -vs- SRP in 9x19

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Fast and Faster

Thank you BLUEDOT37 so much for your
Research on Magnum Primers.

About a year ago I was just shooting a
300 Winchester Short Magnum.

I found out how much of a difference Large
Rifle Magnum v.s. regular Large Rifle makes
igniting Win. 760 ball powder.

It was Instantaneous v.s. a delay of a Micro
Millionth of a second. Luckily all was quiet
and still around me when shooting or I might
have never noticed.

Also, years ago when I bought my first blue
colored carton of Winchester WLP primers
I wondered about the label for “Standard or
Magnum pistol loads”.

Now I know. Thank you so much.
 
This thread took a turn to bashing es's.

Apparently unlike most reloaders on this forum, I love the es's.

It tells me that I reloading correctly:
Namely priming/sizing/powder charge/seating/crimping correctly.

I get a +/- 10 fps and I'm good on my die settings/crimp.

How tight is the firearm setup???
I have revolvers that couldn't set off anything but fed1000 and rem 6 1/2 primers if they had to. A chronograph will tell you if a firearm is mechanically correct if you're smart enough to listen ( high es's).

Heck something as simple as cleaning/lube will affect es's. Make no mistake about it, I have the utmost respect for Bluedot. It's something others should keep in mind.

At the end of the day low es's are meaning less with revolvers/pistols until you stretch their legs a little bit.

2" @ 25yds seems to be the internet standard. low es's simply tell you you're doing everything right and simply have the wrong combo for your firearm.
 
This thread took a turn to bashing es's.

Apparently unlike most reloaders on this forum, I love the es's.

It tells me that I reloading correctly:
Namely priming/sizing/powder charge/seating/crimping correctly.

I get a +/- 10 fps and I'm good on my die settings/crimp.

How tight is the firearm setup???
I have revolvers that couldn't set off anything but fed1000 and rem 6 1/2 primers if they had to. A chronograph will tell you if a firearm is mechanically correct if you're smart enough to listen ( high es's).

Heck something as simple as cleaning/lube will affect es's. Make no mistake about it, I have the utmost respect for Bluedot. It's something others should keep in mind.

At the end of the day low es's are meaning less with revolvers/pistols until you stretch their legs a little bit.

2" @ 25yds seems to be the internet standard. low es's simply tell you you're doing everything right and simply have the wrong combo for your firearm.

I don't think anyone has denounced ES numbers. Rather they have looked at them for what they are. Again, they are a measure of consistency only, not accuracy. Low numbers are fine, but small groups are meaningful and are what most of us want to achieve. Sometimes the two mesh, but it's not something to count on.
 
I like the Remington 2 1/2 primers for .45 AR and mid range .44 Magnum loads with the faster burning powders. I have done comparison tests with them and CCI 300s and velocity is almost identical. I like the Remingtons better because ES is less and they are easier to seat. I would not choose either for full power .44 Mag loads. In the .357 magnum I have found that Winchester SPM or SR primers yield the best velocities with 2400 or Longshot and lower ESs compared to any standard primers. And I am one who expects low ESs from my handloads and will not use loads that don't deliver them. That's me, others will differ.
 
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