WOLFF REDUCED MAINSPRING ADVICE

[UNCLE PAULY]

Bought the Power Rib Shooter's Pak Type 2 (reduced mainspring) item #17121. Comes with 13#, 14# and 15# rebound springs.

Installed the reduced power mainspring and 13# rebound spring into a S&W 686-8 and got about 50% FTF. Switched the 13# rebound spring with the 14# and same results.

I'm looking to get the smoothest & lightest trigger with 100 % reliablity. So, should I go back to the factory mainspring with the 13# rebound spring?

Or should I order the Wolff standard strenth Power Mainspring? Is the Wolff Power Mainspring in the standard strength any better than factory mainspring?

Thanks, Paul

 

[raytsmith]

Don't know about the reduced power spring, but I tried to put a Wolff "factory strength" spring in a new 686 and it hits the rebound slide when cocking it in single action.
I emailed Wolff technical support about it and they said it would need a longer strain screw in a 686. So I just put the factory spring back in and left well enough alone.
The Wolff spring did seem to be a bit smoother, so you might like it, if you want to be bothered with hunting up a screw and fitting it.

 

[OKFC05]

I'm looking to get the smoothest & lightest trigger with 100 % reliablity.

With that spring, you are now in the world of "Federal Primers Only."
I use the reduced strutted mainspring in my competition revolvers, and stock springs in carry revolvers.

 

[*chris*]

I am using the reduced power mainspring and 13 pound rebound spring in a 617 and 686 without at FTF issues. I agree that I would not use them in a carry gun, but for target work they are fine. Is there anything binding? Did someone back out or grind down the mainspring screw? Have you lubricated the action?

Chris

 

[UNCLE PAULY]

I am using the reduced power mainspring and 13 pound rebound spring in a 617 and 686 without at FTF issues. I agree that I would not use them in a carry gun, but for target work they are fine. Is there anything binding? Did someone back out or grind down the mainspring screw? Have you lubricated the action?

Chris

New gun, no modified parts. Mainspring screw torqued down tight. Gun is lubricated.

 

[*chris*]

New gun, no modified parts. Mainspring screw torqued down tight. Gun is lubricated.

Can't help you then, I have used them on a few guns and have always been really pleased. Most of my guns are older, if your gun is brand new, maybe the internals don't move as smoothly.

Chris

 

[Pig Hunter]

If you reload try the spent primer trick. Take the anvil out of a primer cup and put the cup over the end of the strain screw.

 

[S&W1006]

Bought the Power Rib Shooter's Pak Type 2 (reduced mainspring) item #17121. Comes with 13#, 14# and 15# rebound springs.

Installed the reduced power mainspring and 13# rebound spring into a S&W 686-8 and got about 50% FTF. Switched the 13# rebound spring with the 14# and same results.

I'm looking to get the smoothest & lightest trigger with 100 % reliablity. So, should I go back to the factory mainspring with the 13# rebound spring?

Or should I order the Wolff standard strenth Power Mainspring? Is the Wolff Power Mainspring in the standard strength any better than factory mainspring?

Thanks, Paul

I ran into this issue with Wolff springs and it pops up from time to time. Stainz told me how to fix it and I have 2 S&W revolvers with Wolff springs and they are 100% reliable now. The trigger return spring will help lighten the trigger pull but does not affect how hard the hammer hits the primer that is from the mainspring.
The problem with the Wolff spring is it has the rib that allows the stock strain screw to set down in the rib and doesn't allow enough tension with the stock strain screw. What I have done on my 617 and my 66 and I will do the same on my 686 as soon as it comes home is change out the stock strain screw for a grub screw. It doesn't have a head to stop it so you can adjust it further than the stock screw. You will have to put blue (not red) loctite on the screw and it will stay where you put it. If you screw it in until the screw is about flush with the recess for the strain screw to start. Now test fire your revolver with the ammo you will be using. If you get a failure to fire tighten the screw in 1/2 turn increments until it is 100% reliable. I will try to upload some pics so you can see what I am talking about. Hope this helps.

 

[S&W1006]

Hopefully you can see the screw. This one is on my 66 and I used the type 2 reduced power mainspring so it took a lot more turning than on the 617. The 617 I was advised not to use the type 2 by Wolff since 22's take a harder hit so the replacement strain screw is about flush on the 617. The 66 trigger pull is great and 100% reliable. It is my plate gun. The 617 trigger pull is heavier but it's as good as I could get it for a 22 but much improved over stock.

 

[UNCLE PAULY]

THANKS GUYS for the advice.
So, where would I find a longer strain screw? Or if I opt for a set screw (grub screw), what size and length?
On another forum I read #8-32x1/2, does that seem right?

 

[TAROMAN]

Another trick was to place the cup from a fired primer over the tip of the screw, thus gaining a tad more tension.

 

[TSQUARED]

Bought the Power Rib Shooter's Pak Type 2 (reduced mainspring) item #17121. Comes with 13#, 14# and 15# rebound springs.

Installed the reduced power mainspring and 13# rebound spring into a S&W 686-8 and got about 50% FTF. Switched the 13# rebound spring with the 14# and same results.

I'm looking to get the smoothest & lightest trigger with 100 % reliablity. So, should I go back to the factory mainspring with the 13# rebound spring?

Or should I order the Wolff standard strenth Power Mainspring? Is the Wolff Power Mainspring in the standard strength any better than factory mainspring?

Thanks, Paul

Paul,
Unless you use Federal primers the lightened trigger pull will give you ignition failures of varying degrees. Federal primers have the softest primer cups and CCI the hardest. Win & Rem are somewhere in between.
Also you should re[place the factory firing pin with either a C&S or Apex extra length firing pin.
The combination of extra long firing pin and Wolf reduced power mainspring with Federal primers provides 100% reliability in several of my S&W revolvers.
Tony

 

[hotrod150]

FWIW I read somewhere that the standard S&W j-frame mainspring for 38's is 8-1/2#, but for 22's it's 12#. I think the Wolff lighter mainsprings are different for centerfire & 22 also.
Also FWIW, I use 13# wolff rebound springs in all my Chief Specials, but stock S&W mainsprings. I can't see bothering with changing out the mainspring (not to mention taking a chance on misfires) for only a 1/2# lighter spring.

 

[plat0]

THANKS GUYS for the advice.

So, where would I find a longer strain screw? Or if I opt for a set screw (grub screw), what size and length?

On another forum I read #8-32x1/2, does that seem right?

Anybody have any insight to this post? I know it's a bit of a necro-post but it's better than starting a whole new thread right?

 

[stantheman86]

I have a type 2 reduced power Wolff mainspring in my 64-7, I installed a new strain screw and an Apex "duty/carry" firing pin-spring set and it pops Winchester primers with no problems.

With the older worn down screw the rebound slide was hitting the spring. In my experience the blued strain screws don't mushroom as quickly as the stainless.

One day I will put a Power Custom strain screw in, but it works as is so until I have an issue I'm leaving it alone.

Also have a type 2 in one of my 581's, no problems there either.

 

[slickracer]

Anybody have any insight to this post? I know it's a bit of a necro-post but it's better than starting a whole new thread right?

That is the correct size, any hardware store will have them.

 

[SandWAlphabet]

Older thread, but figured I would add in my experience with these kits/FTF's. Never had problems with the Wolff kits, but I have them in older Smith's. Also, Wilson Combat makes a spring kit for S&W's that is good. I have them in several of my Smith's. Some I have just kept the mainspring in and used with either the #13 or #14 rebound springs and have had good results. Haven't had problems in the "newer" Smith's as I have a spring kit in one of my 617's (-6) and in a 686+ (-6). Hopefully you can track down that screw!

 

[H Richard]

Getting a good competition trigger is more than swapping out a few parts. There is the very carefully stoning of multiple parts and the correct lubrication of them. A "good" trigger job is not cheap, and a qualified S&W gunsmith would probably charge $125 to $150 to do it properly. "If" you are qualified otherwise, the Jerry Miculek video "Trigger Job" gives a step by step presentation of how to do it. But, you must have the ability and proper tools to do it.

 

[plat0]

I went with a grub screw I found at Home Depot and so far it has worked out perfectly! Can't wait to get out to the range!

 

[plat0]

By the way, I might actually still just end up sending my 686 to apex for their 'smithing if my results are not where I want them.