Wolff Reduced power spring kit...

[flgolfer29]

I purchased a Wolff Reduced power spring kit for a model 686-6. Hesitant to order the kit initially due to the revolver having an 'extremely' tight fitting sideplate, making reinstalling very difficult.

Installed the mainspring and 14 lb trigger return spring several days ago. This greatly reduced the trigger pull, 5.5 lb double action and 3.1 lb single. Concerned about the possibility of light primer strikes, I ordered an extended firing pin. The pin was delivered today so I Installed it, fingers crossed that primers will ignite.

Loaded primers into empty shell casings, enough to fill the cylinder. The revolver didn't ignite any, even with a second attempt on each. If anyone has solved this issue on other revolvers I'd like to hear your fix. Otherwise, I'll go back to original spring configuration sooner than later.

Thanks all,

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[muzzlestuffer2012]

5.5 on double action did you change anything else seems pretty light for that weight spring?

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[flgolfer29]

5.5 on double action did you change anything else seems pretty light for that weight spring?

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Thats it, surprised me to.

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[D Brown]

My advice, put your stock mainspring back in your 686 and throw the Wolff mainspring in the trash.

 

[Alk8944]

Was it a Wolfe "Power Rib" mainspring"? If it was the strain screw sits into the groove in the spring and puts very little pressure on the spring. Two solutions, either buy a longer 8x32 set screw that compensates for what is lost because of the groove, or use a cup from a fired primer on the end of the mainspring. Or, best, simply put the factory mainspring back in the gun and forget about trying so hard to reduce the trigger pull! I don't believe Wolfe addresses the issue created by the groove in the power rib mainspring, not really doing well by their customers! Maybe they expect their springs will be installed by a real gunsmith that will understand the problem instead of home hobbyists! Even simple appearing things like springs aren't always "Drop-in".

 

[flgolfer29]

Was it a Wolfe "Power Rib" mainspring"? If it was the strain screw sits into the groove in the spring and puts very little pressure on the spring. Two solutions, either buy a longer 8x32 set screw that compensates for what is lost because of the groove, or use a cup from a fired primer on the end of the mainspring. Or, best, simply put the factory mainspring back in the gun and forget about trying so hard to reduce the trigger pull!

Yes, it's the Power Rib. I will shop for a set screw locally today. For the primer cup suggestion, does the cup get placed on the end of the strain screw?

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[Retired W4]

What was the trigger weight before you made the change? Is it possible someone shortened the strain screw? How did the gun function before the new springs and hammer nose? The Wolff 14# rebound spring always works well for me, as do the RP Power rib main spring. That is a pretty light DA pull in my opinion.

 

[flgolfer29]

What was the trigger weight before you made the change? Is it possible someone shortened the strain screw? How did the gun function before the new springs and hammer nose? The Wolff 14# rebound spring always works well for me, as do the RP Power rib main spring.

Not sure of prespring replacement on double action as the trigger gauge only goes up to 8 lbs, single action was 4.1-4.2 lbs. I purchased revolver new 10+ years ago, and the strain screw hasn't been shortened. It functioned fine prior to changes, just wanted to lighten it a bit. No intention of having it too light.

I followed Alk8944 recommendation and purchased a longer set screw, I'll see how that works out this evening.

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[series guy]

I have found that an 8 1/2 pound D/A trigger pull will reliably ignite any primer. I have also found factory Performance Center guns with the round butt that come with the power rib main spring can have issues. A longer set screw replacing the factory strain screw solves the problem. McMaster sells set screws with thread lock.

 

[drumminor2nd]

I ran into a similar problem of too light of strikes on a 69 -- someone shortened the strain screw, didn't crank it down, and they put in too light of springs. Find a stiffer spring and make sure the strain screw is tight.

 

[WR Moore]

In addition to the info in post #5, the fine print on those reduced power/power rib mainsprings is that they're supposed to be used with a stock mainspring tension screw.

That being the case, are you sure yours was never shortened? Also, I've discovered that OAL on those screws seems to vary more than they used to. So, finding a set screw or maybe socket head screw as a replacement make sense.

FWIW, several years ago I tried one of those springs. I ended up going back to the/a factory mainspring and adjusted the tension screw until I had repeatable reliable ignition (over 100 continuous rounds) before trimming the screw down. Remember, the spring(s) will let down some after several hundred cycles so don't get too radical or be in too much of a hurry to fit the tension screw by trimming.

 

[WR Moore]

That used to be a way to alter Colts. One put a certain diameter piece of drill rod between the leaves of the V shaped hammer spring and cocked the hammer.

I've seen some strangely shaped S&W springs, but I really don't think the original can be improved on when properly tensioned.

 

[flgolfer29]

Two solutions, either buy a longer 8x32 set screw that compensates for what is lost because of the groove, or use a cup from a fired primer on the end of the mainspring. Or, best, simply put the factory mainspring back in the gun and forget about trying so hard to reduce the trigger pull!

I went with Alk8844 first solution of three suggested. A trip to home depot, purchased a 8x32 by 1/2" stainless set screw. Screwed it in enough to get decent tension on the mainspring, and checked double action trigger pull weight (7.5 - 8 lbs) and single action came in a hair under 3.5 lb.

The trigger felt great, so loaded up the primed cases and test fired. All primers ignited as intended. I will shorten the screw to remove enough material so it doesn't extend too far from the frame. See photo below.

Thanks to all for your input, greatly appreciated.

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[zonker5]

I had the same problem with a Wolff mainspring. I called them and they sent me a longer strain screw that I could trim to size. Worked well.

 

[flgolfer29]

I had the same problem with a Wolff mainspring. I called them and they sent me a longer strain screw that I could trim to size. Worked well.

Good intel, thanks

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[Bald1]

I’ve used that same set up in a couple K frames (10&64) with no problems at all. I’ve been singing the praises of Wolf Springs for awhile. Maybe I should stop singing lol

 

[flgolfer29]

I’ve used that same set up in a couple K frames (10&64) with no problems at all. I’ve been singing the praises of Wolf Springs for awhile. Maybe I should stop singing lol

Good to hear about your k frames. Overall, I'm pleased with the final results with the spring kit.

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[flgolfer29]

In conclusion, I contacted Wolff regarding the issue. I was asked to provide the overall length of the original strain screw, which I did. The representative informed me that a slightly longer screw would be mailed to me the same day.

In the meantime, I made it to the range yesterday and successfully fired 75 magnum rounds through it. Very pleased with the results, and probably could do without the longer screw at this point but will install it when it arrives. First pic prior to shooting, 2nd after cleaning.

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[Protocall_Design]

In this situation, there are 3 things you can do that will help a lot.

1- Get a trigger pull gage, hook it under the hammer, pull and hold the trigger all the way back, then let the hammer/hook down on the frame, and pull until the hammer just starts to lift and take a reading. When you get it to 100% reliability by adjusting the strain screw, write down the number of ounces of hammer pull for future reference.
By using the trigger gage on the hammer, you are isolating that one item from all the variables in the rest of the mechanism, and quantifying results with numbers instead of blindly guessing.

2- Use #222 or #242 purple or blue Loctite on any strain screw. If loose, or no head like on a set screw, it will start backing out as the mainspring cycles. With these Loctites, you can adjust or remove the screw all you want with no heat, but it will not move on it's own.

3 - Once the correct setting is found by adjusting the setscrew, you can make a factory strain screw to duplicate the setscrew by repeating step 1 and shortening the factory one until you get the same reading on the trigger pull gage (on the hammer) that was recorded earlier.
After that is the time to try different rebound springs to find the lightest one that works the way you like it. Oftentimes, an 11 or 12 pound will work fine and further reduce the trigger pull weight.

 

[minconrevo]

You can expect a revolver cylinder to lock up when firing live primer only (no powder or bullets) casings. Repeat your functionality test with live ammo and see what happens.