Wolff's J and L frame trigger paks!!! Is it worth the money??

[schottgunz]

I have both a 686 and 442 revolver and was wondering if the trigger paks that Wolff sells is worth me buying?

The wife and I absolutely hate the heavy trigger pull on 442. I'm hoping that the kit they produce will make a huge difference on this gun.

Does anyone know if the Power Rib Shooter's Pak for the 686 if it will improve on the double action pull? I like the way the gun and trigger is already but if I can make the trigger even smoother I'd like to do so. I know just about everything can be improved.


Also while I have these guns tore apart is there any other parts that I should polish while I'm replacing the springs.

Any other tips or tricks that will help me shoot a little more steady for these particular models would be greatly appreciated.

 

[minconrevo]

The Power Rib system runs well. I prefer the version that has a selection of various rebound springs.

 

[bountyhunter]

Does anyone know if the Power Rib Shooter's Pak for the 686 if it will improve on the double action pull?

It should drop the DA pull weight into the 8 - 9 pound range. It won't make it any smoother, that takes a trigger job.

 

[sureshotbob]

I've not tried the power pack yet but have put on the J frame pack's on my all my J frame's. When the gun is apart just look for any burr's or sharp edge's and very lightly stone them. On most of my other S&W revolver's I just use a 13# return spring.

 

[schottgunz]

Thanks for the info and feedback guys.

I'd really like to turn my 686 into a bianchi revolver. Although I never plan on competing in the Bianchi Cup (due to lack of skill) I'd still like to have the work done to it. I just don't know which gunsmith to trust to do the work (ie. like installing new Douglas 1:14 barrel, along with milling a recoil compensator, ect.)

Have any of you guys/gals ever built one of these guns or actually shot in the competition? If anyone has I'd really like to know where to take it to have the gun-smithing done, and any other info you might have to help me would also be greatly appreciated.

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

I like the way the gun and trigger is already but if I can make the trigger even smoother I'd like to do so. I know just about everything can be improved.


Also while I have these guns tore apart is there any other parts that I should polish while I'm replacing the springs.

Just about anything can be made worse, also. I'm a little surprised that no one has cautioned you against changing springs on a self-defense gun, if that's what either of them is. While I wouldn't be at all surprised if the Power Rib mainspring is an improvement on your L, and you can test a mainspring pretty easily, I simply wouldn't change rebound slide springs at all. Others do.

Probably the only thing I would stone is the rebound slide, just sliding it (with oil) on a perfectly flat Arkansas stone, without much pressure. You'll see whether you are doing anything.

Simply disassembling, cleaning and relubing the guns will do quite a bit. A tiny bit of RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube on the SA & DA sears, the rebound slide and a few other places will also make a noticeable difference. IMO, much more than that is a mistake, at least on a self-defense weapon. Just use it a lot. That may smooth it out a bit, and will build muscles so that it will seem like it has smoothed out, whether it has or not.

 

[Pisgah]

Long experience with J frames has taught me that tampering with or changing springs is almost always a bad idea. There is a very, very fine line between a spring heavy enough for reliable ignition and one that is unreliable. With the Wolff springs, the lighter trigger-return spring is usually no problem (although carefully trimming the original works just as well), but eh lighter mainspring quite often is too light.

With the J frames, action smoothness is worthwhile and easy to obtain; but, a light action is, sooner or later, a bad action.

 

[JMusic]

I've used the packs before in most frame sizes. I like the ribbed spring but am cautious of the trigger block return. I was fortunate to own a 586 from the custom shop and noticed they install a steel ball bearing that fits in the hammer return block. Installing that of course will cause you to trim a spring.

My carry guns are never taken apart. I lube and snap, lube and snap this smooths the mechanical parts and builds strength in your hand.

 

[schottgunz]

Just about anything can be made worse, also. I'm a little surprised that no one has cautioned you against changing springs on a self-defense gun, if that's what either of them is. While I wouldn't be at all surprised if the Power Rib mainspring is an improvement on your L, and you can test a mainspring pretty easily, I simply wouldn't change rebound slide springs at all. Others do.

Probably the only thing I would stone is the rebound slide, just sliding it (with oil) on a perfectly flat Arkansas stone, without much pressure. You'll see whether you are doing anything.

Simply disassembling, cleaning and relubing the guns will do quite a bit. A tiny bit of RIG +P Stainless Steel Lube on the SA & DA sears, the rebound slide and a few other places will also make a noticeable difference. IMO, much more than that is a mistake, at least on a self-defense weapon. Just use it a lot. That may smooth it out a bit, and will build muscles so that it will seem like it has smoothed out, whether it has or not.

No neither are self defense guns, my M&P40c has that duty for me and a S&W 4506 .45 does the job for my wife.

As far as the rebound springs I was questioning changing them out because I was worried about miss-fires and whatnot. I called and asked them at Wolff if I did change out the rebound springs, would I have any problems in the future or anything and they said no. But I've read time and time again where going to light will always result in problems.

 

[JMusic]

I polish the inside and use the ball bearing I referred to earlier. The spring must be smooth and I molly it. I cut 1 coil off and try it with the ball bearing. Everything must be smooth including side plates.

 

[bountyhunter]

As far as the rebound springs I was questioning changing them out because I was worried about miss-fires and whatnot. I called and asked them at Wolff if I did change out the rebound springs, would I have any problems in the future or anything and they said no. But I've read time and time again where going to light will always result in problems.

Rebound springs have absolutely nothing to do with misfires. They only return the trigger after you pull it. Too light and the trigger can hang up. The main (leaf) spring is what will give you misfires if you go too light.

 

[JMusic]

Rebound springs have absolutely nothing to do with misfires. They only return the trigger after you pull it. Too light and the trigger can hang up. The main (leaf) spring is what will give you misfires if you go too light.

Frankly, some people either turn the mainspring screw out a turn or so or grind it. Thats a mistake that one should shy away from.

 

[Ace-3]

I like and have used on more than a couple K and L frame revolvers. The SMI 10% reduced rebound spring and the standard power Wolff bossed main spring. I also polish the rebound slide and I use Beeman's metal to metal paste. This has given me good results. As to the J frame I have to agree with not changing the springs. Pick up some snap caps and dry fire it a few thousand times it will smooth out.

 

[thearborbarber]

I used a power pak in my wife's 649. I used the springs on step below factory and it worked great. No misfires or other issues.

 

[Silverbullit]

I'm Swedish so the concept of self-defense use is quite foreign from me.
Though I figure that the foremost wish is to make the led go in the direction youre aiming - wich in turn makes changing springs and making a trigger job a step in the right direction.

I would recommend you to get Jerry Miculek's eminent dvd "Trigger Job" along with the therein recommended articles.

I don't do much more than 2000 rounds weekly so I don't know if I'm the fellar to listen to here, all I can say is that the trigger jobs in my revolvers helped me out a lot. (All S&W of course, I also have one pistol, a 1911, and without a trigger job on that one I would probably not hit a barn with closed doors from the inside.)

Get them springs and the Trigger Job dvd and tell us your opinion wether it was worth it...

/Silverbullit

 

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

I'm Swedish so the concept of self-defense use is quite foreign from me.
Though I figure that the foremost wish is to make the led go in the direction youre aiming - wich in turn makes changing springs and making a trigger job a step in the right direction.

Nope. The foremost wish is to be able to pull the trigger and make the gun go off, more than once. A trigger job is usually a step in the wrong direction. However, it is certainly not always a step far enough to actually be wrong, and a competent person can certainly test whether he has gone far enough in the wrong (?) direction to actually be wrong.

 

[chief38]

I'm with Pisgah on this one. I have no problem with changing springs, lightening and stoning burrs ON TARGET or PLINKING guns, but NOT on carry guns. Especially on J-Frames because of the fact that the hammer itself is smaller and lighter and therefore requires a bit more force to reliably set off a primer. My suggestion is and has always been, get your wife or who ever is going to use the J-Frame to shoot it a LOT! It will smooth out the action naturally, and that person will adapt and get used to the pull. Just my .02 cents

Regards,
chief38

 

[duckloads]

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but what does the ball bearing in the rebound slide do?

 

[bountyhunter]

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but what does the ball bearing in the rebound slide do?

I'd also like to know. I suspect somebody is drilling the bottom surface of the slide to install a ball bearing for it to ride on so it won't drag on the frame. That would smooth the DA pull.

 

[Walter Rego]

I bought a 1957 manufactured Chiefs Special a few months ago. I detail stripped it, cleaned and lubed and installed a Wolff reduced power mainspring as the original action was very stiff. I did not polish any of the internal action parts. It didn't seem to make much difference in the DA pull. When I range tested it, it functioned OK in SA but I had a couple of misfires in DA. Scared me at first too as I was worried about a hang fire. After waiting about a minute I examined the primers and they had light hits. I went back to the factory spring. It's my only J frame gun and I guess I am spoiled by the different actions of the K-L-N frames. I'll just live with the J frame action as it's not a target gun. I can't see the tiny sights on it anyway